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Do I need to remove the brakes and pads to bleed my whizzy brakes?

Is there an advantage to using the blocks?
I have some, but tend to not use them. It's obviously easier not having to take the calipers off.
 
I think the theory behind removing the calipers is that you can back the cylinders all the way up and push all the fluid out......that way when you flush, you get all the old out. That said, I didn't do that when I did mine...left em in place and went for it. To me, the little bit that was left in the cylinder wasn't worth it....others may say otherwise...

BTW- You do know that it isn't a "run of the mill" job to bleed "whizzey" brakes! Takes some special tools and bleeding in the correct order is PDI (pretty durn important). I used the JVB tutorial and it went along smoothly. Also, you will need to remove the tank....sounds like a bigger deal than it really is, but is helpful if the tank is on the MT side....easier to lift off, set down.... All the fuel lines, elect and vent hoses have quick disconnects and/or plugs, so goes quicker than you'd think.
 
I think the theory behind removing the calipers is that you can back the cylinders all the way up and push all the fluid out......that way when you flush, you get all the old out. That said, I didn't do that when I did mine...left em in place and went for it. To me, the little bit that was left in the cylinder wasn't worth it....others may say otherwise...

BTW- You do know that it isn't a "run of the mill" job to bleed "whizzey" brakes! Takes some special tools and bleeding in the correct order is PDI (pretty durn important). I used the JVB tutorial and it went along smoothly. Also, you will need to remove the tank....sounds like a bigger deal than it really is, but is helpful if the tank is on the MT side....easier to lift off, set down.... All the fuel lines, elect and vent hoses have quick disconnects and/or plugs, so goes quicker than you'd think.

I feel pretty much as you do about getting the last drop out. Clear fluid seemed good enough.

Yep, I know about whizzy brakes. Done it a number of times. Not astrophysics, but tedious.
Happily, now neither I nor anyone I know has a bike with them.
 
FWIW, in a shop the calipers don't come off. The pads come out and then the spreading and blocking is done from the top. It isn't just the servo-assisted brakes, either; this applies to nearly everything after the classic ABS2 caliper. Push the pads fully back to reduce the retained fluid and then flush. ALL brakes should have the pistons pushed back for bleeding, but for older ones especially you have to take the caliper off for that.
 
OK, that makes sense.
Guess I'll make some wooden shims to move the pads back while still mounted. Not a big deal.
Thanks, Anton.:wave
 
You don't need to make them.
You can go to Home Depot or some such place and buy them for very few dollars.
dc
 
Yeah, but those are pine.
I'll make mine from some scrap maple or cherry.
What's a wood shop for if not to make neat stuff?:)
 
I did mine last week since I had to have the tank off for an alternator replacement. I was planning to do them at the next service anyway...

I replaced the pads and the brake fluid at the same time. Personally, if I weren't have been doing the pads, I would have left the calipers on the bike. The extra amount of old fluid you'll get by backing off those pads is small and as you're bleeding the calipers most if not all of the old fluid is going to get sucked out anyway.
 
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