• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Anyone know of a CAUSE of the 'cold start problem' present in some wetheads?

This longish thread describes the issue that for apparently quite a few folks the engine won't start on the first attempt, always does on the second attempt, and starting on the first press is restored by shutting down the engine w/ the kill switch instead of the key. I'm asking here to see if by chance anyone got a straight answer as to the cause because I am leaving on a 9K mile trip soon and one chap mentioned replacing a bum fuel pump solved the issue for him. As of about a month ago the dealer said he hadn't heard of it and found no service bulletins on it.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/rt-series/145874-r1200rtw-cold-start-anomaly.html#post1493706
 
Mine is at 10K+miles and the starting issue healed on its own. Perfect start every time now. The dealer could not help it on three instances. I was pretty frustrated.
I cannot conform if this is exactly what fixed the issue however I installed spark plugs from the K1600 with the iridium electrode. Whoever is opposing it I would assure you that heat index and geometry is drop-in-replace. Soon after the issue was gone. Could be a coincidence. I am not doing scientific study by replacing old spark plugs to try it back.
It is common issue among us and BMW sucked at resolving it.

Oh...by the way I also installed booster plug. Another thing most here will chime in by advising "it won't work". Let me tell you this combination seemed to start it every time now.

Sorry but talking about this issue and BMW ignorance of acknowledging it sets me off a bit.
I am here to share and help if I can!
 
Mine fires almost immediately on a cold start without touching the throttle. However, it usually stalls within seconds. Always fires on the second attempt and keeps running. I can keep it running on the first attempt if, after it fires, I give it a little throttle (about 1200 rpm). At the point where it would stall, it stumbles a bit, then settles into normal running. At this point release the throttle and it will continue to idle normally while I pull my gloves on.
 
Try resetting the twist grip calibration. do the following;

1.Turn on key with the kill switch set to run. Don't start the engine.
slowly open the twist grip to full throttle and slowly return to idle.

2. repeat this step three times.

3. Turn off key and wait one minute for everything to shut down.

4. Start the engine normally.

This will often help cold starting issues. I have a S1000XR that had the same problem. This procedure and more miles eventually cured the cold start problem. My GSA never had the issue except random multiple starts were required for start up in any weather. It was cured with miles and has not recurred. Probably a software bug that is healed with miles of adaptive learning. The latest software updates had no effect on my bikes.
 
Try resetting the twist grip calibration. do the following;

1.Turn on key with the kill switch set to run. Don't start the engine.
slowly open the twist grip to full throttle and slowly return to idle.

2. repeat this step three times.

3. Turn off key and wait one minute for everything to shut down.

4. Start the engine normally.

This will often help cold starting issues. I have a S1000XR that had the same problem. This procedure and more miles eventually cured the cold start problem. My GSA never had the issue except random multiple starts were required for start up in any weather. It was cured with miles and has not recurred. Probably a software bug that is healed with miles of adaptive learning. The latest software updates had no effect on my bikes.

Excellent--thanks for that, makes sense, and I'll try it.

Cheers
 
Keyless ignition: light up the bike by pushing the button, then immediately hit the starter.

No problems, and I don't use the kill switch.

Harry
 
I ran into this over the past weekend, as I was setting up my Billie brake light. First attempt wouldn't start, but the second time it lit up immediately. Later, once I was out on the road and stopped to fill up with gasoline, I discovered that the gas cap was not latched. :doh After that--admittedly just a couple of startups as my data points--it fired up immediately.
 
Keyless ignition: light up the bike by pushing the button, then immediately hit the starter.

No problems, and I don't use the kill switch.

Harry

Harry have you had troubles w/ burning out headlamps w/ this method, i.e. firing up before the bike's ignition routine completed? Others mentioned this is a cause of early bulb burn up.
 
Try resetting the twist grip calibration. do the following;

1.Turn on key with the kill switch set to run. Don't start the engine.
slowly open the twist grip to full throttle and slowly return to idle.

2. repeat this step three times.

3. Turn off key and wait one minute for everything to shut down.

4. Start the engine normally.

This will often help cold starting issues. I have a S1000XR that had the same problem. This procedure and more miles eventually cured the cold start problem. My GSA never had the issue except random multiple starts were required for start up in any weather. It was cured with miles and has not recurred. Probably a software bug that is healed with miles of adaptive learning. The latest software updates had no effect on my bikes.

I've also been having a difficult time starting my 2014 RT when it was cold. I saw this post a few days and was very skeptical but figured I'd do it anyway. Darned if it didn't cure it. Thanks!
 
Happened with my RTW between 10K and 15K miles, then mysteriously healed itself, no recurrences until I sold it at 32K. Has not happened on my GSA (16K miles). I wait for it to complete the POST before starting, and I have used the kill switch a couple of times but mostly turn it off by putting the sidestand down in gear.

I've never had either wethead refuse to start, or even need a 3rd try. I'll be leaving soon for about 7K miles and am not worried about it not starting.
 
Ambient Condition Change?

I have a 2015 GSA with 8,500 miles currently. I ride my bike most days, even though I work from home! I have noticed, periodically, that my bike starts a little rough to the extent that I let go of the start switch and then re-engage. Not every time, but enough to cause me to make a remark. I have owned several motorcycles, fuel-injected and carburetted, and have not noticed such an issue before. I have begun to wonder if we see starting issues when the atmospheric conditions, such as temperature, humidity, etc, differ 'significantly' between when the bike is shut down and subsequently started. What do you guys think?

Another thought: Is this issue isolated to R 1200 wetheads?

Any response from corporate?

Finally, I really love my GSA. So smooth and I have even taken it on trails gnarlier than gravel roads here in SoCal. It is way more capable than me and I'm OK with that!

Paul.
 
Curious.

Excellent--thanks for that, makes sense, and I'll try it.

Cheers

My question here is why throttle grip calibration should be a factor? From a software point of view, I expect calibration is, more or less, a one-time deal. Secondly, the recommendation for starting the engine is to not turn the throttle from rest.

I could be mis-guided, of course.

Paul.
 
Capture.jpg

The way I interpret the manual, you should twist the throttle on every start unless the engine is warm, as in "recently running".

Don't know why this should be necessary with a throttle-by-wire system - the bike should know the ambient and engine temperatures and be able to adjust accordingly.

But, that's what the manual says is the correct procedure.


Not that anybody reads the manual.
 
Don't know why this should be necessary with a throttle-by-wire system - the bike should know the ambient and engine temperatures and be able to adjust accordingly.

The "choke" lever on my old K75 was actually a gizmo to add a little throttle. One had to remember to turn it off, or the bike would not return to idle, which could make things interesting.

Anyway, I don't give my wethead GS any throttle and it starts instantly, every time, regardless of what the owner's manual recommends. I wonder if some things get lost or changed in the translation.

Harry
 
Wow. Not starting on the first press of the button is a problem. I guess I spent too many years riding old British bikes...
 
Back
Top