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1994 R1100RS final drive pivot bearing replacement

B

BILLK75

New member
Is there another source for the final drive pivot bearing besides BMW? Also any hints on replacing them?
 
Sadly no, FAG has an exclusive supply agreement with BMW.

Just replaced another a set yesterday, $115cad each from BMW dealer.

Robbery pure and simple for a poor design.

Make sure you preload correctly for maximum life (7nm) with a known accurate torque wrench.

Just a heads up.... the Nylatron aftermarket bushings don't even last as long as the bearing. I have an associate that has gone thru 2 sets and gave up.
 
Those bearings are a bad design in my opinion.

I would try the "Nushings" rather than going with the originals: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/final-drive-pivot-bearings-r1150gsa.1116193 I have a set in my emergency FD kit ready to go but haven't installed them yet. The design has gone through a few changes based on user feedback and seem to be the best solution.

You can also go with the Rubber Chicken bushings. http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html They are Oilite bronze. Rubberchicken recommends lubing with Honda Moly but I think that is a bad idea - just leave them alone - that's the whole point of Oilite.
 
Mr_Canoehead said:
Those bearings are a bad design in my opinion.

I would try the "Nushings" rather than going with the originals: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/final-drive-pivot-bearings-r1150gsa.1116193 I have a set in my emergency FD kit ready to go but haven't installed them yet. The design has gone through a few changes based on user feedback and seem to be the best solution.

You can also go with the Rubber Chicken bushings. http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html They are Oilite bronze. Rubberchicken recommends lubing with Honda Moly but I think that is a bad idea - just leave them alone - that's the whole point of Oilite.
Click to expand...

See my comments on the "Nushings"

From my experience the stock bearings are still the best of the 3 and that is not great. The slightly larger ones on the transmission side never have issues. BMW should have used those although the casting would have needed to be a bit chunkier.
 
GSAddict said:
See my comments on the "Nushings"

From my experience the stock bearings are still the best of the 3 and that is not great. The slightly larger ones on the transmission side never have issues. BMW should have used those although the casting would have needed to be a bit chunkier.
Click to expand...

If you very carefully pack them full of silicone grease, not silicone dielectric grease, silicone lube grease, no air anywhere they seem to last a lot better. If you can reach in after install before setting boot and pack the gap around them full of more grease then better.

Never ever use moly on oilite bushings. It plugs the pores.

Soak in motor oil if you want. I think a few days in Mobil 1 5W30 is good.

Rod
 
I have the bronze oilite bushings in my R1150R and Voni's R1100 RS. They work fine when properly installed and lubricated. There was an early issue with the interference fit but that has been corrected.
 
Bump...

Well, H said her 1150R was smelling like gear lube last week:scratch So, since was due for a 12K put'r on the lift. Was thinking tranny output seal with where dusty trails of lube were...somewhat happier it's just the pinion seal and lube was migrating forward...paralever dry inside, strut and bottom of p-lever dirty...off to work.

I had a set of the brass bushings that Paul mentioned...older set that were a challenge to remove this time...have them in other bikes and first time this was an issue.
Decided to try OEM again, but now going with some of the Ei brand from BeemerShop after Denise at Bentonville said the OEM's are now $93 EACH .... :banghead
Self destroying needle bearing set for $200...wow. Thought I paid way less the last time.

I sold a set to a friend a little bit back I had for some time...he may owe me a few tacos after this:wave

The Ei's come as a set with greasable pins w/removeable zerks . Ted said all positive feedback on early users...so I'm in.

http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TRA11094

Also available for other models .
 
My 2004 K1200LT has the same final drive pivot bearings. The bearings have over 190,000 miles on them. Do they have the notches in the bearing races yes. Do I care no. I remove them now & then to clean & re grease them. I buff the races with white rouge buffing compound on a buffing wheel in both directions. I reinstall them with new grease. The outside race wears more than the inside race so I swap them each time. When I set the preload I move the final drive up & down while I torque it to 62 inch pounds.
 
saddleman said:
My 2004 K1200LT has the same final drive pivot bearings. The bearings have over 190,000 miles on them. Do they have the notches in the bearing races yes. Do I care no. I remove them now & then to clean & re grease them. I buff the races with white rouge buffing compound on a buffing wheel in both directions. I reinstall them with new grease. The outside race wears more than the inside race so I swap them each time. When I set the preload I move the final drive up & down while I torque it to 62 inch pounds.
Click to expand...

:scratch Same as what? The Emerald Isle bearing offered by Ted Porter or the OEM ones?
 
GSAddict said:
Please keep us posted on your experience with those.
Click to expand...

Got a set of Ei's delivered Friday. Look pretty good:thumb Installed them earlier, but haven't torqued the adjustable pin yet as the dinner hour was close and called it a day

P1020334.jpg

P1020336.jpg

And for those who have been lucky with long lived OEM's , great...Even on bikes that have never been serviced, seems I have needle bearings falling out and cages worn, especially on GS's.
 
henzilla said:
Got a set of Ei's delivered Friday. Look pretty good:thumb Installed them earlier, but haven't torqued the adjustable pin yet as the dinner hour was close and called it a day

View attachment 59963

View attachment 59964

And for those who have been lucky with long lived OEM's , great...Even on bikes that have never been serviced, seems I have needle bearings falling out and cages worn, especially on GS's.
Click to expand...

Cool, did they come with instructions for install/torque/lube type&interval?
Any chance of posting?
 
GSAddict said:
Cool, did they come with instructions for install/torque/lube type&interval?
Any chance of posting?
Click to expand...

They did not. Part of the reason I stopped until I talk to Ted. I spent a few minutes with him on the phone the other day, but didn't ask a lot, assuming the kit would include some info.
The race cups popped in real easy after I set them in the freezer and heated the housing a bit. I fiddled with the adjustable pin loading a bit while wiggling the FD, but wanted to be sure of torque settings before I locked it down since the pin can bottom out in that race cup.

Will follow up Tuesday, he may be in the shop on Monday, seems I have reached him on Mondays before.
 
The answer I got, which I pretty much figured out just looking at the design, is to take slack out and tighten down.

Since they are not needle bearings in a tapered cage, the chance of over torquing is not the same concern.
Any typical bearing grease also fine. I will shoot some every 12K service and see how things go.
 
henzilla said:
The answer I got, which I pretty much figured out just looking at the design, is to take slack out and tighten down.

Since they are not needle bearings in a tapered cage, the chance of over torquing is not the same concern.
Any typical bearing grease also fine. I will shoot some every 12K service and see how things go.
Click to expand...
Keep us posted please!
 
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