Hi all, I have some uneven rear pad wear, and the wheel side pad is tapered. I figure it's that the caliper can't slide at all on the pins. So I want to take the caliper bracket off to clean and oil the pins. My Haynes manual says to draw the bracket off the caliper, but I can't get it budge. I've been trying to rig housing clamps around t he caliper with blocks of wood and try to get the bracket off with another clamp, but can't seem to get the clamps and the blocks to stay put and they slip off. I've tried prying it off with a thick screw driver, but I'm trying not put any pressure on the pistons. and there is so little to of the caliper to use for leverage. Is there supposed to be a little movement between the bracket and caliper. Any ideas?
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r1200rt rear brake caliper
- Thread starter droptine
- Start date
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Search ebay for a good used one. That seems to happen with the RT caliper - once solidly frozen up it doesn't appear there is any way aside from destruction to separate the bracket and caliper.
Seems the RT guys use a high pressure sprayer more and blow water past the little boots, washing any lube out
Had an RT...I get it
Seriously though, the two that have been stuck were RT's...one I let soak in liquid wrench, the other was replaced from Ebay. Seems the metal rods and aluminum carrier had a serious galvanic corrosion issue going on.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Pulls apart. Lubricate lightly and reassemble.
When you lubricate the pins, make sure to use a synthetic grease specified for brake calipers. I have been using Permatex Ultra Disc Bake Caliper Lube for a number of years with good results.
HowardR1200RT
New member
Pic
Does anyone have a picture of the pins in question on a 2011RT?
Does anyone have a picture of the pins in question on a 2011RT?
HowardR1200RT
New member
Can the caliper be disassembled and those pins be lubricated with caliper on the bike and without disconnecting brake lines?
You need to remove caliper off its mount, but lines stay in place just as you would to replace pads.
Pins don't get more than warm in most uses so any lube from oil to high temp grease will work. Its main use is to prevent pad dust/water corrosion of the pins. Should always be done at pad change. Use some coarse bronze wool or medium/fine sandpaper to clean up dirty pins
Rear pads are different thickness side to side so the thin side wears out faster.
Try any rust cutter if pins are truly frozen but sometimes they do corrode past further use. First time I had this happen to me was on a 72 Z car in upstate NY road salt. Ate a whole bunch of the caliper metal in addition to freezing it.
Rear pads are different thickness side to side so the thin side wears out faster.
Try any rust cutter if pins are truly frozen but sometimes they do corrode past further use. First time I had this happen to me was on a 72 Z car in upstate NY road salt. Ate a whole bunch of the caliper metal in addition to freezing it.
roamingbeemer
roamingbeemer
Lubing those pins have probably saved me a lot of issues. I frequently check my rear caliper to make certain it is not heating up from the caliper not releasing fully.
Previously I had a very hot caliper and I learnt about the sticking pins here on the forum.
Previously I had a very hot caliper and I learnt about the sticking pins here on the forum.
Over the years I have gotten into the habit of checking brake rotors and the rear drive for excessive heat. Lately I noticed my rear brake pads and rotor getting hot after easy riding and braking. Caliper off, cleaned and greased the slide pins and brake fluid flush. Back out for a ride, pads and rotor still too hot to touch after an easy ride. Front rotors not even warm. Thoughts? (2007 R1200RT)
DP
DP
lkraus
New member
It's possible have too much grease on the front pin of the rear caliper. The grease prevents air movement along the flat side of the pin, and the caliper can be held against the disc instead of sliding freely. If you push or pull on the caliper it should stay in position when you let go - if it tends to spring back, this is the problem.
THANK YOU! I q-tipped grease out of the "female" parts of the caliper, then cleaned and applied a thin layer of high temp grease on the "male" pins. Vol la, no more hot brakes! I never thought too much grease would prevent easy movement. And I think I answered my question in my last post. The rear rubber seal just butts against the pin. I was over thinking this. Come on spring!
DP
11mm wrench
The slider pins on my '09 were frozen. After much searching, I found the solution is to unscrew the bottom pin with an 11mm wrench. It will screw right down into the slider boot before it is loose. It is now detached from the bracket.
You now can swivel and wiggle the calipers (without disconnecting the brake line) to get the top one loose. If you have never lubed it, it may be rusted in solid (sad pic attached). Clean them, and the receiving side via your favorite method, and lube (I use silicone brake paste - made for this purpose).
Getting the boot back over the ridge on the slider pin may be difficult if the boot has been ignored or smashed flat from being frozen flat for a while. If so, the boots need to be replaced.
The slider pins on my '09 were frozen. After much searching, I found the solution is to unscrew the bottom pin with an 11mm wrench. It will screw right down into the slider boot before it is loose. It is now detached from the bracket.
You now can swivel and wiggle the calipers (without disconnecting the brake line) to get the top one loose. If you have never lubed it, it may be rusted in solid (sad pic attached). Clean them, and the receiving side via your favorite method, and lube (I use silicone brake paste - made for this purpose).
Getting the boot back over the ridge on the slider pin may be difficult if the boot has been ignored or smashed flat from being frozen flat for a while. If so, the boots need to be replaced.
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