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b-
I have both. While the bikes do run and perform a bit differently,........the difference just doesn't seem that great to me. I really wouldn't make it a factor in acquiring or riding one of these old beauties.
Good luck w- the '77.
Wm.
Quite the read on Brook's documentation of the rebuild in the Owners News. Here's links to Parts 1 and 2...can't wait for 3! Nice job, Brook!
Just hit "Close" to go to the first page.
http://content.digitalpub.blue-soho...ber2017/html/index.html?page=64&origin=reader
https://content.digitalpub.blue-soh...ber2017/html/index.html?page=44&origin=reader
Apologies for a "ME TOO!" post but I just have to chime in with Kurt here.
First off Brook it was a real pleasure to meet you at the RS Anniversary gathering. We get the MOA rag a week or two later up in Canada and I just finished your latest article this morning. It is indeed awesome as is your website http://brook.reams.me/
Although I did not fully restore my Bro in Law's 92 RS or my 82 RS for the epic ride out east I did go through a lot of the same stuff you had to do. I also want to thank you for answering my questions during the steering head bearing replacements on both those bikes along with other questions. Your support and examples on your website were extremely helpful. I did take photos but nowhere near as many as you have! My bike was also repainted and by the time I got everything back, well, your memory plays tricks on you doesn't it?
Lucky me, your photos filled in some blanks.
Thanks for all you do for us home wrenchers Brook! You are a great contributor to the airhead community and a heck of a nice guy who truly does "endeavour to persevere".
Enjoyed seeing your articles in the ON's R100RS. I had several friends who bought the '77 R100RS as new bikes. They had great insight into what a great bike that it was/is. My late buddy Art Grisanti was one of those. Rode with him many times when he was riding that bike. After he passed another buddy got the bike. I got the opportunity to help freshen up the bike. One of my best memories is doing the heads on the bike. I also set the heads up in a milling machine and opened the exhaust ports from 38mm to 40mm. Yep, it's one great bike. Good job on your bike. Barry
Brook - I really enjoyed your articles and it was great to see how you started your story here on the forum.
Ian
Brook -
I know I'm resurrecting something pretty old, but I just ran across this discussion you were having on the Airheads Airlist. I'm so far behind in reading those digests, I couldn't respond at the time. I posted this also on the Vintage website.
At one point, you were questioning the masses how to orient the fork tubes with respect to the holes in the tubes. At first you thought just putting them pointing back towards the bike would be the way to go. Tom Cutter offered up a way to find the high spots in the tubes rolling around a flat surface and using that to your advantage when it came time for assembly. That would reduce stiction.
I was wondering what did you finally do?
My reason for bringing this up is from a structural stress standpoint. I wished I could have commented at the time, but I wasn't actively reading the digest emails at the time. My input would have been to put the holes either pointing at each other or directly opposite meaning pointing out the sides. The reason is that the tubes are undergoing flexing fore-aft. As the tires hit imperfections, as you get on the brakes, the tendency is to bend the tubes fore and aft. Think of the bike on the centerstand with the front wheel off the ground...then grab the sides of the axle with each hand and push the axle parallel to the ground. This is the type of bending going on.
For a tube bending this way, the maximum bending stresses are going to be either along the front surface or the trailing surface. At the mid point of the tube, or in this case, the side of the tube, the bending stress is zero. Typically, the front side will go into tension while the exact opposite side will essentially be compression of the same value, just negative from the front side.
The hole in the tube creates a stress concentration...typically circular holes cause a factor of 3 rise in stress at the very edge of the hole. If there should be an imperfection there, the local stresses become three times higher and a crack can form and eventually grow.
For this reason, you do not want the holes to be on the front or the back. They should be either pointing at each other or pointing away from each other to the side.
I would loved to have had that input to the discussion but missed my opportunity.
Thanks...