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1977 BMW R100RS Restore Project

1977 R100RS Project: Remove, Disassemble Bodywork

I'm making progress. All the body work is off and at the painter. I documented how I took it all apart in this write-up which maybe helpful to anyone who is planning to do the same in the future.

This write-up shows how I remove all the body work (the seven fairing panels, upper fairing bracket, seat and seat cowl, front and rear fenders), disassemble the faring panels and remove the seat pan, grab rail, rubber bumpers and internal foam pad from the seat cowl. Since I have to disassemble the fairing the write-up shows how I remove the exhaust system; the windscreen; the front turn signals, clear headlight glass housing and the parking light; the black dashboard; the ignition switch and gauges from the black dashboard; remove all the fasteners to disassemble the panels; and, finally remove the top fairing bracket as the bike is being stripped down the frame and the bracket needs to be repaired.

There was a lot of damage to the upper center headlight panel and the upper fairing bracket was broken (since repaired). I suspect the right front of the bike hit something solid at some point. I got a used headlight panel as I wasn't confident if I repaired the damage I would be able to eliminate all the cracks in it.


Here are some pictures showing some of the damage I will address.

<a title="Screen Damage" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/26331843556/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/2/1615/26331843556_b33502f359_z.jpg" alt="Screen Damage So I Will Replace It" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Windscreen Damage

<a title="Broken Fairing Bracket" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29172540350/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8346/29172540350_3ba7296bdd_z.jpg" alt="Broken Upper Fairing Bracket Steering Stem Mount" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Broken Upper Fairing Bracket Steering Stem Mount

<a title="Broken Fairing Bracket" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/28836851734/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8262/28836851734_bb68aa7928_z.jpg" alt="Broken Upper Fairing Bracket Steering Stem Mount" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Broken Upper Fairing Bracket Steering Stem Mount

<a title="Headlight Panel Cracks" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29127953790/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8384/29127953790_5c76b23d76_z.jpg" alt="Headlight Panel Cracks" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Headlight Panel Cracks

<a title="Headlight Panel Cracks" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29127953980/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8538/29127953980_ef6bd2aa8a_z.jpg" alt="Headlight Panel Cracks" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Headlight Panel Cracks

<a title="Headlight Panel Cracks" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29127953610/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8426/29127953610_37ff5a6551_z.jpg" alt="Headlight Panel Cracks" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Headlight Panel Cracks

<a title="Headlight Panel Damaged Tabs" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/28792136344/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8344/28792136344_e1fc58e0ba_z.jpg" alt="Headlight Panel Damaged Tabs" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Headlight Panel Broken*Tabs

<a title="Body Panels Removed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/28794621043/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8619/28794621043_c394bc1692_z.jpg" alt="Fairing Panels Removed" width="426" height="640" /></a>
Fairing Panels Removed


I hope this material is helpful.
 
Brook, I admire what you do for Airheads. What I have learned over 30+ years of riding Airheads is this, we must teach ourselves to ride these bikes as the Germans intended. My experience with a saved 1988 R100RS could never be reconciled with the riding style of the R75/5 that I have owned since 1989. They are perfectly designed when we get our minds around that concept. Each are their own animals, and each has a purpose.
All the best,
James A...
 
Last edited:
Folks,

I picked this bike up in April 2016. Finally, on September 1, I got started on it. I had to finish up work on the 1975 R75/6 "S" update and completed that in July.

I wrote up a project page and added my build plan. You can find these here:

My goal is to complete this build by September 1, 2017 so I can ride the bike to the 40th anniversary get together in Pennsylvania later in September.

I have repaired the damage to the fairing panels and I'll be writing about how I did that soon.

I hope this material is helpful to those working on a first year R100RS. Here is what I started with and where I am so far.

<a title=""10 Foot" View" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/26291559501/in/album-72157666863178492/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/2/1602/26291559501_cfc3fbac45_z.jpg" alt=""10 Foot" View" width="640" height="480" /></a>
"10 Foot" View

<a title="Body Work & Wheels Removed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29644878925/in/album-72157672306851951/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8321/29644878925_6152e9ea6b_z.jpg" alt="Body Work & Wheels Removed" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Body Work & Wheels Removed

Best
Brook Reams

Sure looks nice. I made it to Sipaup this year, but did not see you. Did you make it? I would have love to seen this bike, it looks great.
 
Well, I was close by in Taos but I wasn't able to go to the rally due to other family commitments.

Best.
Brook.

Sorry we missed you. There was a nice collection of airheads there, but less than previous years. To me it also seemed attendance was down a bit, but the weather was perfect for some great rides. Maybe next year.

Wayne
 
1977 R100RS Project: Repair Fairing Panels & Side Covers

Folks,

I wrote about how I made repairs to numerous cracks in the body work on this project so I can take the bodywork to my painter. You can find my write-up here:

I show how I repair a plastic boss and install a new brass threaded insert for bolting the bottom of a lower side panel to its bracket. These inserts can break out of the boss if the bike falls over, so it's not uncommon to find they are damaged. It was not hard to repair this.

I used Plast-aid which I have had good success with on other repairs. Here are some of my write-ups showing how I use Plast-aid to repair fairings and panniers.

I am not connected with nor do I have a financial interest in this product or company. I just like the ease of use and strength of the repairs compared to using fiberglass resin or Hotcha glue. Your mileage may vary.

I think I'm about ready to remove the front forks and work my way to the back of the bike as I strip it down to the frame. We shall see what other "surprises" are in store for me. :)

Here are a couple of pictures from the write-up.

<a title="Upper Side Panel Large Crack" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29564213431/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8383/29564213431_60a6440a4a_z.jpg" alt="Upper Side Panel with Large Crack" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Top Left Side Panel with Large Crack

<a title="Top Side Panel Plast-Aid Repair" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29645613205/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8531/29645613205_bcddf7f5fa_z.jpg" alt="Top Side Panel Plast-Aid Repair" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Top Left Side Panel After Plast-aid Repair and Sanding

<a title="Top Side Panel Plast-Aid Repair" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29645612625/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8115/29645612625_d652b7c391_z.jpg" alt="Top Side Panel Plast-aid Repair" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Top Left*Side Panel After Plast-aid Repair and Sanding

<a title="Brass Insert, Top-Outside End" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29645615385/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8376/29645615385_b98e09327f_z.jpg" alt="Brass Insert-Serrations Go At the Bottom of the Hole" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Brass Insert-Serrations Go At the Bottom of the Hole

<a title="Bottom Side Panel Repair to Brass Insert Boss" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29564217181/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8345/29564217181_f97f302ba4_z.jpg" alt="Bottom Side Panel Repair to Brass Insert Boss" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Bottom Right*Side Panel Repair to Brass Insert Boss

<a title="Bottom Side Panel Brass Insert Hole" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29645614505/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8136/29645614505_2620fbe832_z.jpg" alt="Bottom Side Panel Brass Insert Final Hole Size" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Brass Insert Final Hole Size-5/16"

<a title="Bottom Side Panel Brass Insert Test" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29645614295/in/album-72157673798772405/"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7748/29645614295_024048a243_z.jpg" alt="Bottom Side Panel Brass Insert Test" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Testing Integrity of Boss & Brass Insert Repair
 
1977 R100Rs Project: Checking Frame To See If It Is Straight

Folks,

Due to a lot of cracks in the top middle fairing panel that surrounds the headlight and the fact the upper fairing bracket had both tabs broken that secure the strap that bolts to the steering head, I wanted to check the frame to see if it is straight. I borrowed a frame jig from a long time BMW mechanic who is now retired and used it to see what's up. The good news is the frame is straight "enough" for my purposes. You can read about how I did this work here.

Duane Auscherman has a nice page that illustrates a technique you can use that does not require this jib and I included a link to his web page.

Here are a couple pictures of the jig and how I used it.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29963516802/in/album-72157671278804603/" title="Frame Jig"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8143/29963516802_4dee2f480d_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Frame Jig"></a>
Frame Jig

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29449612054/in/album-72157671278804603/" title="Mounting Jig Orientation & Steering Stem Bar"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5507/29449612054_2b0c81da2a_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Mounting Jig Orientation & Steering Stem Bar"></a>
Mounting Jig Orientation

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29963516612/in/album-72157671278804603/" title="Frame Jig Installed"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8416/29963516612_c08901087f_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Frame Jig Installed"></a>
Frame Jig Installed In Steering Head

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29449612564/in/album-72157671278804603/" title="Pin Inserted In Rear of Jig"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8140/29449612564_5c37716bcc_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Pin Inserted In Rear of Jig"></a>
Swing Arm Alignment Pn Inserted in Rear of Jig

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29963516492/in/album-72157671278804603/" title="Right Pin Centered In Swing Arm Bushing"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8815/29963516492_4ba3e6db3b_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Right Pin Centered In Swing Arm Bushing"></a>
Right Pin Centered in Swing Arm Bushing

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29963516152/in/album-72157671278804603/" title="Left Pin In Swing Arm Bushing"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5020/29963516152_4616425af2_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Left Pin In Swing Arm Bushing"></a>
Left Pin In Swing Arm Bushing About 2-4 mm Toward the Rear-GOOD ENOUGH :)

Best.
Brook Reams.
 
RS paint

Brook,
Looking good! I'm at the same place, ready for paint. I PM'd you tonight.
Was shocked at the price of paint kit! Are you going stock color, if so what source
did your painter use? Paint code, color info, if available.
Thanks
Jeff
 
Brook,
Looking good! I'm at the same place, ready for paint. I PM'd you tonight.
Was shocked at the price of paint kit! Are you going stock color, if so what source
did your painter use? Paint code, color info, if available.
Thanks
Jeff

Yes, I plan to paint the bike the stock 1977 colors of silver blue with blue pin stripe. The color codes are available on Phil Hawksleys site:
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/paintcodes/blues.htm ==> Silver Blue code 530
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/pinstripes/501-550.htm --> For Silver Blue Code 530, Pinstripe Blue Code 105

Glasurit aint cheap, that's for sure, but it's in keeping with the old saw about what BMW stands for: Bring More Wampum. :)

Best.
Brook.
 
Beemers and Beer & Rebuild Work Items List

As you can see from this picture, things have progressed. I use the shop for more than just working on bike projects and today was bottling day for a batch of home brew beer.

Beemers & Beer.jpg

I hope to post some more links to write-ups on the project soon. In short, the bike is stripped and I'm progressing on the projects needed based on my inspection during the tear down. This is the list of work to do. Those with a check mark next to them are done.

1977 R100RS Rebuild Projects List

Engine, Clutch, Transmission, Carburetors:
1. Install new front engine seal, timing chain, crankshaft sprocket, cam seal and tachometer drive seal.
2. Update engine electrics.
√ - New alternator stator
√ - New alternator rotor
√ - New Alternator brushes
√ - New diode board
√ - New cables; diode board, alternator, starter solenoid, (+) and (-) battery cables, engine electrics harness.
√ - New starter relay, voltage regulator
√ - New battery
- Inspect starter motor and solenoid – had instances of hard starting.
√ 3. Check cam nose for run out.
4. Remove clutch and rebuild (Southland Clutch).
5. Remove flywheel, replace rear crank seal
- Replace oil pump cover if not using later bolts and cover o-ring.
- Remove, clean oil pan, replace pan gasket and pickup tube gaskets.
6. Inspect cylinder, pistons and rings. Remove carbon.
- Replace rings with proper type for Nikasil cylinders.
7. Inspect valve train & replace exhaust system.
- Disassemble valve train. Inspect and decide if new seats required.
* Some needle bearings came out of races. Replace all.
- Install Keihan 38 mm SS exhaust, silencers and hardware.
8. Rebuild carburetors.

Steering, Instruments, Forks, Frame, Rear Shocks:
9. Inspect and replace as required steering head bearings, and swing arm bearings.
- Replace steering head bearings.
10. Rebuild front forks with Race Tech Gold Valve cartridges & springs.
11. Replace top clamp and steering stem nut with Toaster Tan products.
12. Repair tachometer & clock, service speedometer, refinish volt & clock bezel (Terry Vrla).
13. Remove wheel bearings, inspect and replace if necessary.
- Shim to correct preload.
14. Replace rear shocks.
√ 15. Check if frame is bent.

Brakes, Wheels:
16. Rebuild calipers and master cylinder.
- MC is not damaged.
17. New tires, tubes.

Paint, Powder Coat, Badges, Decals:
18. Repaint the bike due to the non-matching tank and the cracked fairing pieces.
√ - Buy used top center panel due to poor condition of original
√ - Repaired cracks in panels using Plast-aid.
19. Powder coating.
- Remove drive shaft from swing arm.
√ * Get Cycle Works tool.
√ - Remove lock cover and VIN plate.
20. Anodize brake calipers blue.
21. Repaint snowflake wheels with Wurths paint.
22. Spray paint perches
23. Clean rust and paint starter motor and starter solenoid
24. Refinish engine covers, inner alternator cover, engine block, transmission, rear driver.
- Try vapor blasting engine covers, inner alt. cover.
- Hand refinish engine block, transmission & rear drive.
25. Replace frame labels, rondels and decals.

Onward ...
 
1977 R100RS Electrical Component Upgrade & Timing Chain Replacement

Folks,

I've been making good progress on this project.

I've finally finished writing up the major electrical projects and the timing chain replacement. You can find this material here.


Where the procedure is similar or identical to work I've done on other bikes, I link to the existing write-ups and document the condition I found on this bike.

The body work should be back from the painter soon and the hard bits got dropped off for powder coating Tuesday. The clutch was shipped to Southland Clutch yesterday. I've got at least one source for anodizing the brake calipers. So a lot of the "outsourced" work is in progress.

Here are a couple pictures from these write-ups.

Timing Chain

<a title="Timing Chest Cover Bolt Location" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30512791562/in/album-72157674746107610/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5611/30512791562_63021c490d_z.jpg" alt="Timing Chest Cover Exposed with Cover Puller on Crankshaft Nose" width="426" height="640" /></a>
Timing Chest Cover Exposed with Cover Puller on Crankshaft Nose

<a title="Tach Drive Removal" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29995829613/in/album-72157674746107610/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5569/29995829613_657b8c7e27_z.jpg" alt="Tachometer Drive Shaft Coming Loose" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Tachometer Drive Shaft Coming Loose

<a title="Timing Chain After Using Bolt Cutter" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30043369064/in/album-72157674746107610/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5758/30043369064_79515d6785_z.jpg" alt="Timing Chain After Using Bolt Cutter" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Timing Chain After Using Bolt Cutter

<a title="Dial Indicator Mounted To Check Cam Nose Runout" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30043365834/in/album-72157674746107610/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5677/30043365834_af399be892_z.jpg" alt="Dial Indicator Mounted To Check Cam Nose Runout" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Dial Indicator Mounted To Check Cam Nose Run Out

<a title="Gears One Tooth Out of Alignment" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30665861322/in/album-72157674746107610/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5563/30665861322_1b315b35e2_z.jpg" alt="Timing Marks When Sprockets Are One Tooth Out of Alignment" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Timing Marks When Sprockets Are One Tooth Out of Alignment

<a title="Timing Chest Cover Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30624630910/in/album-72157674746107610/"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5787/30624630910_2d2ef1a763_z.jpg" alt="Timing Chest Cover Installed" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Timing Chest Cover Installed

Engine Electrical Components



<a title="Wires on Back of Diode Board" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30311245650/in/album-72157675696493166/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5326/30311245650_1c51d2d057_z.jpg" alt="Wires on Back of Diode Board" width="640" height="426" /></a> Wires on Back of Diode Board

<a title="Unsoldering Phase Wires from Wiring Block" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30311244130/in/album-72157675696493166/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5488/30311244130_3262bc004f_z.jpg" alt="Unsoldering 3-Phase Wires from Terminal Block" width="640" height="426" /></a> Unsoldering 3-Phase Wires from Terminal Block

<a title="New EME Stator" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29997714694/in/album-72157675696493166/"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5704/29997714694_f5ac435561_z.jpg" alt="New EME Stator" width="640" height="426" /></a>
New EME Stator

<a title="Diode Board, Alternator and Wiring Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30837059861/in/album-72157675696493166/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5775/30837059861_a82ee28be9_z.jpg" alt="Diode Board, Alternator and Wiring Installed" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Diode Board, Alternator and Wiring Installed

Dyna III Electronic Ignition


<a title="Points Housing Full of Crud" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30522872821/in/album-72157675696493166/"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5774/30522872821_836b018bbd_z.jpg" alt="Points Housing Full of Crud" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Points Housing Full of Crud

<a title="Stock Advance Timing Unit is Rusty" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30611205265/in/album-72157675696493166/"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5490/30611205265_88656bb13b_z.jpg" alt="ATU is Rusty" width="640" height="426" /></a>
ATU is Rusty

<a title="ATU Components" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/22746868228/in/album-72157674925739262/"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5495/22746868228_4d4e285dab_z.jpg" alt="ATU Main Components Disassembled" width="640" height="480" /></a>
ATU Main Components Disassembled

<a title="Old Advance Springs Installed on Cam Plate Pins" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30971334905/in/album-72157674925739262/"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5727/30971334905_9c83cc7bb5_z.jpg" alt="Old Advance Springs Installed on Cam Plate Pins to Limit Full Advance" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Old Advance Springs Installed on Cam Plate Pins to Limit Full Advance

<a title="Dyna III Sleeve and Pickup Plate Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30936888156/in/album-72157674925739262/"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5799/30936888156_529964fa5a_z.jpg" alt="Dyna III Sleeve and Pickup Plate Installed in Points Housing" width="640" height="480" /></a>
New Dyna III Sleeve and Pickup Plate Installed in Points Housing

Starter Motor


<a title="Rusty Starter Motor" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30482071320/in/album-72157672516205063/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5816/30482071320_026bf84205_z.jpg" alt="Rusty Starter Motor with Cob Webs" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Rusty Starter Motor with Cob Webs

<a title="Battery Cable to Starter Solenoid" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30482070980/in/album-72157672516205063/"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5586/30482070980_16d323bc42_z.jpg" alt="Cracked Insulation on (+) Battery Cable; "Red" Wire Wrapped with Electrical Tape" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Cracked Insulation on (+) Battery Cable; "Red" Wire Wrapped with Electrical Tape

<a title="Field Coil Housing Removed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30191354654/in/album-72157672516205063/"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5640/30191354654_aa6092cf81_z.jpg" alt="Field Coil Housing Removed Showing Armature" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Field Coil Housing Removed Showing Armature

<a title="Brush & Coil Spring Detail" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30522397970/in/album-72157672516205063/"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5335/30522397970_3e806bd86c_z.jpg" alt="Brush & Coil Spring Detail in Brush Holder" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Brush & Coil Spring Detail in Brush Holder

<a title="Starter Motor Repainted" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30924633675/in/album-72157672516205063/"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5468/30924633675_8e9fe63488_z.jpg" alt="Painted Starter Motor" width="640" height="360" /></a>
Painted Starter Motor
 
Last edited:
Very nice, Brook. :thumb

Pardon my ignorance, and I couldn't hook up to your links, but why do you leave the mechanical advance unit in there? Is it so you can quickly revert to mechanical points?
 
Last edited:
Pardon my ignorance, and I couldn't hook up to your links, but why do you leave the mechanical advance unit in there? Is it so you can quickly revert to mechanical points?

The Dyna III uses the mechanical advance...the points are replaced by 1) pickups 180 degrees apart and 2) a donut with a magnetic spot which is affixed to the shaft of the mechanical advance and 3) a "brain" which interprets the signals from the pickups to open the circuit to the coils. His picture of the parts:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30971333795/in/album-72157674925739262/

It does look like 3 of the 4 links Brook provided don't work. :scratch
 
Broken Links Fixed

The Dyna III uses the mechanical advance...the points are replaced by 1) pickups 180 degrees apart and 2) a donut with a magnetic spot which is affixed to the shaft of the mechanical advance and 3) a "brain" which interprets the signals from the pickups to open the circuit to the coils. His picture of the parts:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30971333795/in/album-72157674925739262/

It does look like 3 of the 4 links Brook provided don't work. :scratch

DUHOOOO.... It seems my copy/paste of links messed up. I've fixed them so it's all good.

Yes, I like the idea I can revert back to stock points should/when the electronic ignition fails. I keep the stock points plate and set of points on the bike. I can remove the Dyna III points plate and install same by the side of the road. I disconnect the wires from the Dyna III "black box" to the coils and connect the wire going to the condenser on the right outside coil terminal and I'm good to go. By the way, that condensor wire SHOULD NOT be connected to the coil when using the Dyan III ignition as it messes up the timing. DAMHIK :)

Best.
Brook.
 
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Nice to see a fine old motorcycle being upgraded with modern components, without affecting the bike's character.
 
Nice to see a fine old motorcycle being upgraded with modern components, without affecting the bike's character.

Rinty,

That's the guiding principle for this rebuild. I'm restoring and improving. Previous owner(s) of the bike upgraded it with dual plug heads, Dyna III electronic ignition, deep oil pan, cast wheels and at one point, someone installed Nikasil cylinders, new pistons and rings (I suspect something bad happened to the top end).

Onward ...

Best.
Brook.
 
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