Adjusting the engagement point of a Wethead Clutch or Brake! (pictorial)

Clutch Adjustment

Jim,

THANKS for the adjustment procedure. However, I must be misinterpreting your directions
(Once the set screw is loose, you use the 2mm Allen to adjust the distance the plunger goes into the master cylinder. The more it goes in the sooner you will get engagement. Turn it in Clockwise from the perspective of the plunger) to bring the lever closer to the grip when engagement starts, and turn it out (counterclockwise) to move engagement away from the grip. I suggest moving it only one turn at a time at most. Reinstall and test.)
I was able to loosen the set screw and adjust the plunger w/o removing the lever assembly
I adjusted the plunger CW one turn and the engagement point moved AWAY from the grip So, I adjusted it two turns CCW and it is now CLOSER to the grip. I have the wheel set at 2. I am now pleased with the operation of the clutch.

THANKS

irish said:

Nice write up. At the risk of displaying ignorance, what is the reason for doing this adjustment? I thought all wetheads came stock with adjustable brake and clutch levers. I know my oilhead does. Is this procedure for a more fine-tuned adjustment? Maybe I am just fortunate and available lever positions work for me without disassembling anything.

Click to expand...

I think there are two adjustments: the engagement point, and lever travel. The lever travel adjuster at the lever are to accommodate for example short fingers so you can decrease the distance the lever moves between fully pulled and fully out. If the engagement point is bordering on not fully disengaging the clutch for example when the lever travel is maxed, then it's possible if you shorten the lever throw you won't fully disengage the clutch. So they are related, but separate adjustments.

Clutch plunger adjustment

Confused. Do you adjust CCW to get close engagement or CW. Please clarify. I have seen 2 different responses. Thanks. Why do the dealers not know about this adjustment. My dealer said the clutch is not adjustable.

Plunger/set screw availability???

Read this post a little late and have managed to snap off Allen wrenches in both plungers and round off the set screw in one of them ��. As others have mentioned, none of the bmw parts lists shows this part, let alone gives it a number. It appears to be the same for both levers. Anyone have a part # or a source for the plunger/set screw combination? Thanks.

maybe https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws

Attempting to adjust clutch disengagement or clutch drag

Hi all, I stumbled upon this thread while trying to troubleshooting a catchy\grinding 1st-2nd shift due to clutch drag(weak disengagement). Just as an FYI to anyone attempting to use this guide to get better clutch disengagement or removal of clutch drag this did not work on my bike. It does however allow you to modify the 'engagement point' as quoted, quick and easy. I did not have to remove anything on my stock 2014...both the set screw and adjustment screw on the stock levers are easily reachable with no disassembly and nothing was overly torqued either, very easy with the proper size allens.

For testing purposes I turned the screw in until the clutch lever no longer contacting the handlebar grip when fully compressed...thus guaranteeing that the master cylinder plunger was fully engaged to its maximum extent and unfortunately the clutch drag still persisted with no change. In fact(and I might be dreaming this) I found the issue to very slightly improved with the rod turned out(counter-clock) about 0.75 turns from stock...which also brings the engagement point closer to the handle grip as well which better fits my style also.

Just an FYI and YMMW but I saw someone had asked above if this would help with drag and wanted to let folks know my experiences. Excellent write up either way, thank you.

Welcome to the forum!
Glad it helped. Thanks for the additional info
Gary

I’m going to be changing out my levers soon so this was a great write up. Thanks JVB. Alway posting good pictorial DIY mods. I like it.

Like someone else mentioned I wonder if it’s possible to just buy the plunger and set screw to put in my new lever and keep the current ones in my stock levers. That would be ideal. Then they would be ready as a backup if needed with minimal modification. Anyone know if you can buy just a plunger and set screw or do you have to buy the complete lever set?


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