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Thread: R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by jimvonbaden View Post
    In my experience, the RT doesn't generally has as much of an issue, probably due to a less extreme angel of the swingarm.

    The corrosion issue comes when water pools in the boot, which seals well on the final drive end, but not well on the swingarm end. The water gets in, but cant get out.

    Typically the FS drain bolt will be firm until the O-ring is exposed, then it will turn out easily.

    Thanks,

    Jim
    Interesting. Are any/all of those images from LC models? If water can't get out is there a prevention fix by putting a one-way port on the most dependent part of the housing so that water could drip out?

    It appears something happened to my drain bolt or more like the female threads in the housing because it's surprising tight on the way out and on the way back in again. The local shop did the 12K service and the first time I did it myself was at 24K, and it was tight but consistently tight except for the first turn or so on the way out which once cracked was real easy to turn then suddenly became harder to turn. No way I could do it without a short handled ratchet. I tend to think it was over torqued either at the factory or by the shop causing all threads to move every so slightly but not shear them outright. This could explain two things: that it's uniformly hard to turn, i.e., unlike a cross-thread where you might have some variation in friction as you turn the bolt. And also that it's the same from both directions, both turning out then reinserting and turning back in.

  2. #17
    Kool Aid Dispenser! jimvonbaden's Avatar
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    All of them are of the R1200GS/A LC models.

    There will be some friction both going in and coming out, but it should not be too much. It is just the O-ring stiction. A ratchet should not be needed, I can do it with just a socket and an extension once broken loose.

    Jim

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Omega Man View Post
    Link opens off your quote
    Have a try on another computer and see watcha get.
    Jim's link- http://jimvonbaden.com
    OM
    Much better link thx


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by jimvonbaden View Post
    Once done, the fun part begins. You need to install the gaiter and mate the final drive to the driveshaft. There are two tricks to it. First, install a soft wire into the driveshaft U-joint like this to hold it in position:



    Second, leave off the gator and fit the final drive. You will see it can be tricky. Use the big final drive hole to rotate the final drive to mate the splines. I hold the FD through the hole and rotate it like to mate the. Once mated, gently drop it down allowing the final drive hole to rotate back. Install the gator on the FD side in the clips, then lift it back up. It may take a few tries.



    Once you get them to mate, install the Paralever bolt to hold it in place.

    Once in place, press the gator clips into the swingarm and make sure it fits correctly. It is pretty obvious:



    Once that is in place, install the paralever bolt all the way, then the final drive drain, then the speed sensor and brake caliper:






    Then pop in 180ml of final drive gear oil.




    Reinstall the wheel:


    Install the fender, if you have one (3Nm with medium strength loctite) and you are done.

    Jim
    Excellent post thanks so much.

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by jimvonbaden View Post
    In my experience, the RT doesn't generally has as much of an issue, probably due to a less extreme angel of the swingarm.

    The corrosion issue comes when water pools in the boot, which seals well on the final drive end, but not well on the swingarm end. The water gets in, but cant get out. The rust grows and causes the splines to grind against each other until they fail. This is not a common issue, but common enough to be worth checking periodically. I recommend the 6K service, then every 12-24K depending on the amount of riding in rain, water crossings, and exposure to water. High pressur washing can cause water to get in as well.

    Here are a couple of examples of rust on the splines.

    Typically the FD drain bolt will be firm until the O-ring is exposed, then it will turn out easily.

    Thanks,

    Jim
    Man that's hideous.

  6. #21
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    Same thing?

    Is this the same as: "Oil change in rear bevel gears", as described in the scheduled maintenance doc?

    All_Notes.jpg

  7. #22
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    Jim,
    Thanks for posting, clear, concise. Great information.
    So often times it happens that we live our lives in chains
    And we never even know we have the key

  8. #23
    Great description!!! I do this on my GSA after any trip with water crossings. Quick and easy to make sure everything is dry and lubed.

    I have sprayed a little anti-corrosion inside too.

    I have also done this to my K1300 a couple of times to just make sure.
    Seek Fun. "Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain--and most fools do" BF
    2009 K1300GT,
    2011 R1200GSA
    2014 Kawasaki DTracker; 2016 Honda NC700 DCT

  9. #24
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    For the Purist...

    Per the BMW OEM Repair Manual the bolts for the "paralever link" are noted with "Replace screws" meaning they are one time use

    The replacements come with a thread locker preinstalled per RealOEM.com

    The RepRom also calls for a sealant around the boot to help seal the boot. BMW calls for Staburags NBU 30 PTM.

    I use a marine white grease that so far has shown to be hard to wash off and kind of sticks the boot to the mating drive/swing arm surfaces.

    Deryle & Wanda Mehrten
    Sierra Vista, AZ USA

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by jimvonbaden View Post

    Here are a couple of examples of rust on the splines.



    Typically the FD drain bolt will be firm until the O-ring is exposed, then it will turn out easily.

    Thanks,

    Jim
    Why isn't the drive shaft pulled so the front splines can be serviced? I thought you said the front end is the end w/ most risk for retained water?

    Seems to me these parts should have been made of stainless unless stainless is too soft which I guess it would be for this role.
    Last edited by ncpbmw1953; 10-29-2017 at 04:37 PM.

  11. #26
    Registered User daleah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinsclo View Post
    Is this the same as: "Oil change in rear bevel gears", as described in the scheduled maintenance doc?

    All_Notes.jpg
    NOT the same thing. this just refers to changing out the oil. I specifically asked my BMW repair guy about the 12k service and he said they changed the FD oil. i asked if he dropped the FD to check the u-joint and he said no.

    This past weekend I dropped my FD to check out my shaft and found more rust than I hoped to see. my bike has only 12k miles, but is almost 5 years old (early 2013 build date). Idk what the PO did, but I have ridden through some low water and dropped it mid-stream once.

    One other thing i was not pleased to find was the rubber boot was incorrectly installed and the lip that went inside the swingarm was not inside the swingarm, but rather crushed against the lip, so it was not sealed. this gap was on the wheel (inboard) side, so although i had checked for gaps on the outboard side, i could not get to this part of the boot without taking off the rear wheel (which I never did).

    I'll post a pic. once I figure out how (and I get my photobucket account sorted out).

    Dale
    '13 GSW
    Blog: MTNestAdventures.com

  12. #27
    Kool Aid Dispenser! jimvonbaden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncpbmw1953 View Post
    Why isn't the drive shaft pulled so the front splines can be serviced? I thought you said the front end is the end w/ most risk for retained water?

    Seems to me these parts should have been made of stainless unless stainless is too soft which I guess it would be for this role.
    The lower shaft end is the one most at risk. It can be flooded with water and sit wet for long periods if the boot is bad. The lower one (rear) is most at risk because it slides. The upper spline does not move as it is held in place by a circlip. It also will not sit in water.

    SS is not a suitable metal for this application, but whatever they are using is a rust magnet.

    Jim

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by jimvonbaden View Post
    The lower shaft end is the one most at risk. It can be flooded with water and sit wet for long periods if the boot is bad. The lower one (rear) is most at risk because it slides. The upper spline does not move as it is held in place by a circlip. It also will not sit in water.

    SS is not a suitable metal for this application, but whatever they are using is a rust magnet.

    Jim
    Thank you Sir!

  14. #29
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    I found the LC bikes are so easy to change the final drive oil, Iíve taken to changing at each oil change, first couple changes old oil was pretty black, this last time at 12k drained clear. I have the dimple magnetic plug at 12k it was clean

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