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Ecuador - 2016

And there's more...

Day nine started early as we were expecting the guys from Freedom Bike Rental with a replacement bike. True to his word Court had sent two of his mechanics with a freshly prepped BMW F800 GS to replace Chip's dead Suzuki V-Strom. The two lads had driven the mountain roads all night from Quito to arrive in Cuenca at about 4:00 AM. The gentlemen were up at 7:00 AM to unload the GS and load the Suzuki. Stellar performance from Freedom Bike Rental!


Our first stop of the day was at the Igapirca Ruins (Inca).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ingapirca

Our entry fee included an English speaking guide who was excellent.

By the way, the roads from Cuenca to Ingapirca were another myriad of curves. Court had promised us that we would find roads with so many curves we would be sick of riding curves...we never found those roads. Fun times!


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The rough section in the middle is a portion of the original Inca Trail according to the docent. The Temple of the Sun is in the background.

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The path to the Temple of the Sun.

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Over the centuries various peoples took advantage of what appeared to be easily accessible building materials and raided the Ingapirca Ruins for the stones. Our guide said that once the significance was the site was realized the military was commissioned to recover the stones and return them to the site. This pile is some of the recovered materials.

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Our guide leading the way to the Temple of the Sun. Notice the walls in the foreground. I noticed this construction was unlike anything I had seen in Peru. The stones in the walls in the ruins Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley, and even in Cusco were all close fitted without mortar. The walls at Ingapirca were held together with a mortar made of mud, straw, and llama dung. There were some exceptions!

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The walls of the Temple of the Sun were closely fitted stones as those we had seen in Peru. Interesting.

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Our guide explained to us that light would shine through the doorway in front of Sten and at specific times of the year would illuminate golden artifacts in the four cubicles in the wall he is pointing to. These occurrences would coincides with the four temperate seasons, Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter! In case you're wondering, the sign asks people not to climb the walls.

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As usual the mountain scenery was always worth a stop and a look. Oh, and there a lot of curves to ride to get to this spot. Lots of curves! Beautiful country!

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We ended the day a Hotel posada del Arte in Baños de Agua Santa. This is the view from the balcony outside my room. The waterfall ends at a hot spring within easy walking distance to the hotel. Again, the food and service at the hotel was excellent!

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Thanks everyone for the kind remarks. It was a wonderful adventure and I look forward to going back!
 
Very nice.....as usual :thumb
I didn't notice a piece of litter anywhere- nice to see.
Gary
 
Very nice.....as usual :thumb
I didn't notice a piece of litter anywhere- nice to see.
Gary

The minimal amount of litter and graffiti was one of the most surprising observations during the trip. Ecuador is without doubt my favorite Latin American country for a lot of reasons.
 
Very nice report. I'm sitting in Managua Nicaragua waiting for my flight back to Florida after riding a rental bike here for a week. I brought my own GPS & Spot tracker holders & had a local bike repair shop install them for $100 Cordoba's. That is $3.55 USA. Ecuador scenery looks much nicer than here. It is the dry season here now.
 
Very nice report. I'm sitting in Managua Nicaragua waiting for my flight back to Florida after riding a rental bike here for a week. I brought my own GPS & Spot tracker holders & had a local bike repair shop install them for $100 Cordoba's. That is $3.55 USA. Ecuador scenery looks much nicer than here. It is the dry season here now.

Sounds interesting. I hope you do a report so we can read the details of your ride.
 
Day ten was a day off the bikes and spend we it walking around town and seeing how folks celebrate Valentines Day in Ecuador. The weather was great with plenty of sunshine. We all enjoyed the day!

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Folks were flocking to the hot springs at the base of the waterfall.

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Sunday was also shopping day. It appears sugar cane is a commonly purchased item!

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This unusual structure turned out to be a closed amusement center. If you examine the center of the "cone" you can see two circular slides. Unique to say the least.

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There several of these unusual trees in a park across the street from the closed amusement center. I have no idea what species of tree these are.

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The main plaza was busy with folks enjoying a sunny Valentines Day.

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The cathedral was packed with folks paying homage to St. Valentine, el Dia de San Valentin. Apparently the significance of February 14th began in Roman times.

http://tudecidesmedia.com/traditions-valentines-day-traditions-from-latin-america-p3150-128.htm

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The ubiquitous taste treat in South America, cut (roasted guinea pig). We all abstained this trip!

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The live human statute poses with a young lady.

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Shop till you drop!

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I suppose there is some significance to this mural as it relates to Hostal Santa Cruz, but we never found out the rest of the story. Great colors though!

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Day Eleven - Baños to Cotococha Amazon Lodge

We left Baños after another great breakfast at the Casa Posada del Arte Hotel. It didn't take long and we were riding in the rain again. Are goal for the day was the Cotococha Amazon Lodge in the Amazonia region of Ecuador. In other words, from the mountains to the jungle!


Even though it was raining I convinced the rest of the group that getting of the main highway to the road less traveled would be worth a photo op. Bob dancing with a waterfall near Rio Negro, Ecuador.


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After the photo op we quickly made our way to the Cotococha Amazon Lodge as we wanted to take advantage of the afternoon canoe trip on the Napo River. The canoe excursion on the Napo was one of the elements that sold me on this trip.

The rooms were comfortable and unique in that the only night time illumination was by oil lamp. It was great hearing the Napo flowing by 100 yards away.

http://www.booking.com/hotel/ec/cotocha-amazon-lodge-napo-river-lodge.html

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The exterior of my cabana. By the way, the food was pretty darn good too!

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Chip decided to check out the pool.

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Again, I have no idea what this plant is, but the small little buckets that hold water for what appear to be seeds is pretty cool.

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The good ship Alexis, our transport for our tour of the Napo River, a tributary of the Amazon River.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napo_River

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We're underway heading upstream from the Cotrococha Lodge.

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After a canoe ride upstream we beached the boat and took a walk through the jungle. During the hike our guide pointed out what he called a "false banana" tree. The he showed us another use for the plant...parrot disguise!

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We were shown a small waterfall and swimming hole. Sten was the only one to take part. Very cool spot!

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Believe it or not a huge ficus tree!

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Bird of Paradise plant.

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This is the part of the palm tree that is used in making Panama hats. Panama hats actually originated in Ecuador and not Panama.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_hat

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During our return to the lodge our guide turned off the motor and we just floated along. The sounds of the river and the views were very peaceful and relaxing. For me it was a memorable experience!

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A view of our cabanas from the river.

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Day Twelve - Cotococha Amazon Lodge to Freedom Bike Rental, Quito

The last day of our Ecuadorian adventure. The goal for the day was to make it back to Quito and return our bike to Freedom Bike Rental before the afternoon rush hour. Our route would take us from the Amazonia region, over the Andes at a 13,600 foot pass, and into the traffic of Quito!

Welcome to the Jungle!

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The Napo River at the town of Atahualpa.

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Crossing the Napo River on a metal deck bridge in the rain...what could go wrong? Bob shows no fear!

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The sign basically says the Main Amazonia is there to be discovered...more or less! The fog and higher altitudes chilled things down a bit!

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Chip stared them down so that everyone could get past this roadblock!

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After clearing the speed control device we made our way back to Quito. The return of the bikes went quickly and efficiently. After we said our farewells to Court and Sylvan we return to the Cartuja Hotel for a day of relaxing before we went to the airport for a 1:00 AM departure for Houston.

Great trip, glad I did it and would/will return. Next time I'd be more interested in places off the main roads. Cheers!

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Here's some of my impressions and thoughts about my experiences in Ecuador, some folks may disagree, but these are my thoughts;


1. I never felt at risk…not even for a second during my entire 18 days in Ecuador.

2. People were polite and friendly, even being respectful while I was attempting to take photos

3. Remember that you are riding in their country and they have THEIR way of doing it. Unlike, most American drivers they actually know where the right side of their vehicles are. The Ecuadorian drivers may seem to be aggressive (and some really are) as they will pass in your lane and may only be three to four feet from your bike. Don’t panic, just stay steady and smooth and they will get around you shortly. YOU DO NEED TO CONTANTLY CHECK YOUR MIRRORS as cars willing appear out of nowhere and they will be close. Just move to the right and let them by. Yelling, screaming cursing the drivers is a waste of effort, ruins your enjoyment of the adventure, and may only cause them to more desperate maneuvers causing further risk to you and them. Relax, chill, and let them by!

4. You frequently see road crews of six to eight people doing various maintenance chores along the roads and every member of the crew is working. Quite a change to what we’re used to seeing here in the good ole USA where one or two are working and another six to eight are standing around watching, talking, or checking their mobile phones!

5. When riding through the small remote villages and towns you will notice that they are quiet. This is quite a change from my experiences in Mexico where it seemed that everyone had a boom box blaring!

6. I also noticed there was very little horn honking, very different from most of the other Latin American countries I have visited. Even while sitting in a street side café in the center of one of the busiest sections of Quito and would only hear an occasional beep. When I looked up I saw that it was a taxi trying to get the attention of a pedestrian to see if that person wanted to hire the taxi. Again, very different from Mexico where everyone is born with a horn and freely use them…constantly!

7. You need to always be alert for speed bumps, sleeping policemen (as they call them), topes (in Mexico) are everywhere, some of them are painted yellow, and some are not. They vary in shape, height and type. The metal will be slick; the painted ones will also be slippery when wet. Also, if you choose to ride bikes with less ground clearance you will need to adjust your approach speed accordingly as you can and will find out why the bikes are equipped with sump guards.

8. Average speeds. Due to the numerous villages and towns that you travel through, the traffic in those areas, and the numerous speed bumps, photo stops, rest/food breaks you can expect to only average 25 to 30 mph. In the States 250 miles would take five hours or less, not so in Ecuador. 250 miles there is a ten hour or more riding day, plan accordingly.

9. Poor areas, villages. As we rode through the country we saw many very poor areas, houses that to us were nothing but wooden shacks on stilts. But, when you wave at the people most smiled and waved back and appeared to be happy. We saw many older people carrying very heavy loads of grass, palm fronds, etc. up hill, or down hill as they probably had their entire lives. No way could we have done the same sort of manual labor. I didn’t stop for that type of National Geographic photo as I had no desire to attempt to highlight their situation. I really don’t have a complete understanding of what I was seeing to comment photographically on those scenarios. Perhaps when I return I will spend more time in those areas and hopefully with my poor Spanish will be able to better understand their lifestyle.

10. Yelling, screaming cursing the drivers is a waste of effort, ruins your enjoyment of the adventure, and may only cause them to more desperate maneuvers causing further risk to you and them. Relax, chill, and let them by!

11. The Ecuadorian people appear to love their dogs. Dogs are everywhere. You see them outside most homes in the villages and rural areas. Sometimes they’re sleeping half in the road. Surprisingly they are not startled or frightened by passing cars or motorcycles…they just lay there. To me that would indicate that people give them great respect and consideration, so the animals trust humans to not harm them.

12. While traveling through the numerous small villages, towns, and cities I saw very little evidence of graffiti. Even in the poor areas there was little to no trash observed. I never saw anyone cleaning the streets and sidewalks so I guess that folks just don’t discard things randomly.

13. Unlike many Latin American countries I have visited we were never pestered by panhandlers or people trying to sell us trinkets or other souvenirs, with one exception. During our last evening in Quito a group of youngsters aggressively tried to sell some type of poster. After a few minutes they finally gave up without further incident.

14. Unlike most Latin American countries, folks in Ecuador eat early in the evening like most Americans. Even in Quito traffic and other activities are finished by 10:00 or 11:00 PM. In Mexico and Argentina many restaurants don’t even open until 8:00 PM.

15. We had zero issues with the police or the military. There were several occasions where police had setup roadblocks, probably as part of drug interdiction efforts, but we were always waved through them with a friendly wave. At the one military check point we were asked for our passports, our names were added to a register of people that had passed through the checkpoint. The soldiers were friendly, polite, and professional.
 
This is the best ride report I've ever seen on the forums. One of the greatest moto photographers I know on vacation in a beautiful, interesting area of the world. Thank you Steve for taking the time and effort to post this. I know it was a bit of work. You are truely a gifted photographer and travel journalist.
 
Saying this thread is impressive seems so lame. Your photography is over the top. Love the color, depth, texture, composition, on and on. You turn a thread into a artist's portrait. Barry ps Now, I want to ride a motorcycle in Ecuador. :wave
 
Wonderful introduction to some of what Ecuador has to offer! Thanks for taking the time to put it together! I especially appreciate the impressions. Safe travels!
 
Very nice Steve. You must have some photos to share? ! ,hopefully. ....(yes..)
Did you see any Hummingbirds?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 
A great report Steve. I have a similar group of three looking to do the 10 day route in 2017 around September. I had posted in another forum for any information on Freedom Riders, and it was right here in front of me all the time. Originally we had though of going around March, but getting schedules to mesh can be tough, even if your retired, so it'll be later in the year for us. I plan on confirming the trip sometime in January, and your information puts to ease any concerns I had before setting it up. Thanks again for the trip report, and I'll let you know how our adventure works out, with a trip report of my own. Walt E.
 
Great RR ! BTDT myself and it is GREAT!

Just stumbled upon your RR whilst renewing my membership. Great ride report. Isn't it a beautiful place? I went in March, 2016 with Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental owned and operated by Court Rand and Sylvain Gallea. Two great tour guides who really know their country. Ride of a lifetime for me.

https://f-rider.smugmug.com/Ecuador-2016 is where my RR is located, just another view of a great country, great hosts, and wonderful Ecuadoran people. I'm going back in 2017. For sure !! :wave
 
Very well done! I'm convinced, I have to go!

:wave:wave
Day three was a relatively uneventful ride along rows and rows of banana trees that lined the roads from Hacienda Pinsaqui and Canoa. Once we arrived at the Canoa Beach Hotel it was time for some air conditioning, cold beer and some awesome blackened fish. Great food and service at a nice beach hotel.

Sylvan from Freedom Bike Rentals was at the hotel when we arrived and helped sort out some of the issues with the GPS units. Things were better, but not without some interruptions of service. The primary problem was a poorly designed mount. Freedom Bike Rental did everything that could be done to remove our problems.

Day four was a rest day and rest we did! It was time to check up on emails, photos, walks on the beach, etc. The weather was somewhat rainy so parasailing was out of the question this time.


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