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Repainting Valve Covers
- Thread starter jsf14469
- Start date
rattle can is your friend
if you can find it, I have had good luck with Krylon BBQ grill paint. It is great for frame touch-up, as well. It has a bit of a matte finish rather than flat. Looks pretty much OEM. If you sand to bare aluminum, a light coat of self etch primer may be in order. I usually just prep with scotch-Brite pad. The key above all else is make sure the surface is clean. Wipe with enamel reducer or similar solvent before you start. Even before you sand, otherwise you force contaminants into the old paint surface. I have been having trouble finding Krylon grill paint lately. I don't really care for Rustoleum.
Another brand of rattle-can automotive trim paint is SEM brand, at auto paint store. It is rather good, as well.
if you can find it, I have had good luck with Krylon BBQ grill paint. It is great for frame touch-up, as well. It has a bit of a matte finish rather than flat. Looks pretty much OEM. If you sand to bare aluminum, a light coat of self etch primer may be in order. I usually just prep with scotch-Brite pad. The key above all else is make sure the surface is clean. Wipe with enamel reducer or similar solvent before you start. Even before you sand, otherwise you force contaminants into the old paint surface. I have been having trouble finding Krylon grill paint lately. I don't really care for Rustoleum.
Another brand of rattle-can automotive trim paint is SEM brand, at auto paint store. It is rather good, as well.
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I used a combo spray can made either my Rustoleum or Krylon - Krylon I think. Had primer and color in same can. You do not need hi temp paint as the valve covers do not get that hot. Got satin black. Cleaned the covers, used lacquer thinner to clean, and lightly sanded. Worked perfectly. I then, after they dried, took wet-or-dry and lightly sanded the highlight stripes and voila - perfect.
Have been perfect now for three years!
Have been perfect now for three years!
I used Wurth black engine paint in a rattle can obtained from Re-Psycle BMW. I used Scotch-Brite and elbow grease followed by a rinse with brake cleaner to prep the surface. A couple of coats of paint were applied. I kept the inner face of the valve cover attached to a piece of cardboard, using the existing studs along with a couple of nuts and washers. Once the paint was dry I used fine sandpaper (e.g. 400 to 600 grit) on the outer face of the horizontal fins to get back to bare aluminum. Still looks good over a dozen years later.
Another source for Wurth paint -
http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_falcon_mercury_comet/engine-compartment-paint-black-wurth.html
Amazon offers lots of other options for black high temp automotive paint - don't know much about most of the items shown -
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...ned,200&rh=n:15684181,k:black+high+temp+paint
Another source for Wurth paint -
http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_falcon_mercury_comet/engine-compartment-paint-black-wurth.html
Amazon offers lots of other options for black high temp automotive paint - don't know much about most of the items shown -
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...ned,200&rh=n:15684181,k:black+high+temp+paint
bikerfish1100
New member
Powder coating works great. Yeah, I know it's not an airhead, but i suspect the process will work jsut fine. Had these done about 8 or 9 years ago.. still perfect.
lkraus
New member
That stuff is a little tricky to use. I have trouble getting the right width on the stripes, usually need to make a couple trial runs to determine how far to depress the nozzle.
if you are really careful you can wipe off the horizontals with lacquer thinner and a rag right after you paint it, rather than letting it dry and sand. If you slip into the paint area, just wipe it clean and re-shoot. If you are pretty good with a rattle can, you can mask and paint the v/c on the bike. However, mask more than you think you need. It is really better to take off the bike.
Somebody mentioned Wurth brand. Also good stuff. You may be able to get it direct from Wurth USA, but I think they have minimum quanity req.
Somebody mentioned Wurth brand. Also good stuff. You may be able to get it direct from Wurth USA, but I think they have minimum quanity req.
lmo1131
New member
A word or three about powder-coating valve covers. "Power Coat" is essentially vinyl plastic resin applied as a powder, and baked (to melt it onto the substrata).; the temperature required to do this is somewhere around 370F.
Ural (Ukrainian sidecar manufacturer) powder-coated their valve covers. They look great, the problem with them was that the BACK SIDE was not masked during the powder procedure. During operation, hot engine oil basically dissolved/re-melted the coating, which then found its way into the lubrication system.
If you go the powder coat route, have the painter mask the back side.
Ural (Ukrainian sidecar manufacturer) powder-coated their valve covers. They look great, the problem with them was that the BACK SIDE was not masked during the powder procedure. During operation, hot engine oil basically dissolved/re-melted the coating, which then found its way into the lubrication system.
If you go the powder coat route, have the painter mask the back side.
Our shop does its own powder coating. In the final product, I have yet to see any benefit over conventional spray painting. The powdercoating process is used by auto manufacturers on standard steel wheels (for example) and frankly, I think the coating doesn't stand up to the elements (snow, salt, water, etc) as did the older painting method.
The reason manufacturers are going to powercoating vs. standard spray painting is because of EPA pressures and regulations. That is why my shop does it now as opposed to spray painting. No EPA to worry about. NOT because it is a superior coating.
lmo1131
New member
Powder-coating has dropped out of my "favored" list. I think you're right, it doesn't hold up a well as it's advertised to, and once scratched, or cut, moisture and salt have a path under it, and it then migrates, unseen, under the coating. It also can't be easily touched up.
I don't think the Ukrainian's are facing the same "EPA-type" standards we are; more likely it's a marketing thing, because PC is currently "in" and perceived as superior to paint.
Just my $.02
I don't think the Ukrainian's are facing the same "EPA-type" standards we are; more likely it's a marketing thing, because PC is currently "in" and perceived as superior to paint.
Just my $.02
