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Thread: Basic steps to change final drive oil?

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by BMARC153920 View Post
    There is no specified interval for the splines, they were done on the older gen just because it was a might as well item. Me, maybe I will do them at 36k, maybe not, fact is people did the rears but never the fronts so if the front were okay, then so should the rear.
    Faulty logic going on here. The front splined connection has a spring clip in a groove so the splines don't slide. The sliding action is all at the rear. Consider then whether you think a non-sliding spline and a sliding spline require the same lubrication at the same intervals.

    In fact the front spline needs to be protected from corrosion and cushioned from impact pulses. The same is true at the rear plus it needs to be lubricated to prevent wear from the sliding action.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  2. #32
    Registered User BMARC153920's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Faulty logic going on here. The front splined connection has a spring clip in a groove so the splines don't slide. The sliding action is all at the rear. Consider then whether you think a non-sliding spline and a sliding spline require the same lubrication at the same intervals.

    In fact the front slide needs to be protected from corrosion and cushioned from impact pulses. The same is true at the rear plus it needs to be lubricated to prevent wear from the sliding action.
    Fine. But there is still no recommended lube spec and the fact still is this became popular with the previous gen as a might as well since you had to drop the fd to drain the fluid and not a maintenance item done out of requirement.

    I personally haven't read any reports of drive failures due to spline damage related to not lubrication on a fixed schedule.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  3. #33
    The issue in my post was not a comparison between older bikes and newer bikes. It was between fixed splines and sliding splines. Now that BMW has invented permanently lubricated final drives (we know how that turned out) they apparently have also now invented permanently lubricated sliding splines. OK by me.

    p.s. I'd lubricate them every 40K miles or so anyway, but that's just me being careful.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #34
    The issue in my post was not a comparison between older bikes and newer bikes. It was between fixed splines and sliding splines. Now that BMW has invented permanently lubricated final drives (we know how that turned out) they apparently have also now invented permanently lubricated sliding splines. OK by me.

    p.s. I'd lubricate them every 40K miles or so anyway, but that's just me being careful.

    p.p.s. Periodic lubrication of classic K bike clutch and driveshaft splines was also never listed as periodic maintenance. So why did they dry out, rust, and shred themselves. The book didn't say they would/could do that. But they didn't read the book.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #35
    I agree with Paul, plus....
    I lube my GS yearly (Honda Moly) while I check for any moisture that could cause corrosion of the u joint. I remember a picture on this forum of a completely corroded u joint which failed in a dramatic manner.

    I had two small puddles of water the last time I dropped the FD on my GS. I had done 4 water crossings in the previous month. The boot was properly installed and had grease. The rings were definitely snapped into place.

    I have only done the K1300 rear splines once since it is street only with no rough water crossings.

    I also used some anti corrosion spray while being careful not to spray near the u joint bearings.
    Seek Fun. "Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain--and most fools do" BF
    2009 K1300GT,
    2011 R1200GSA
    2014 Kawasaki DTracker; 2016 Honda NC700 DCT

  6. #36
    John Erkan
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    so with the newer 2014 and up 1200RT's, is anyone using the 90W 140 final drive oil??

  7. #37
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erkj79 View Post
    so with the newer 2014 and up 1200RT's, is anyone using the 90W 140 final drive oil??
    Not the spec, wouldn't.
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

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