Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 37

Thread: Basic steps to change final drive oil?

  1. #16
    Registered User ExGMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chestnut Hill, MA
    Posts
    1,646
    Whew! Thank you for not starting an oil thread. Interesting about the metal flakes after the side-stand drain. Seems to me that little edges of things created during manufacture of a motor might (or not) be knocked off during 12K miles of use. I wonder if there's a way to measure that (presuming you use the same procedure next time) when you do it again. Uh-oh...sounds like another oil thread...
    John Gamel - BMW MOA Consumer Liaison
    2015 Ebony Metallic R1200RT
    Watching the sunrise outdoors statistically increases your odds of having a good day. And needing a nap after lunch.

  2. #17
    Registered User BMARC153920's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Orange County, NY
    Posts
    623
    Quote Originally Posted by ExGMan View Post
    Whew! Thank you for not starting an oil thread. Interesting about the metal flakes after the side-stand drain. Seems to me that little edges of things created during manufacture of a motor might (or not) be knocked off during 12K miles of use. I wonder if there's a way to measure that (presuming you use the same procedure next time) when you do it again. Uh-oh...sounds like another oil thread...
    You can send an oil sample to lab and they will tell you exactly what is in it.

    Sent from my KFSAWA using Tapatalk

  3. #18
    Registered User RYD1WD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    309

    final drive maint.

    Changed mine at:
    400 (first service)
    4000 (early 6K prior to a long ride)
    16000 (early 18K)

    I sent out the sample that had 12K on it, the lab suggested that it would have been good for at least another 6K increment. This didn't surprise me as previous shaft drive bikes (other than BMW) I have owned have had 20K service intervals on the final drive lube, and I put over 100K on those without any issues. I have worked in two different shops, which will give you two different answers. They are both conservative in my personal opinion. Yes it's cheap, but it's also just another excessive 180 ml of crap I'll be leaving a future generation to clean up... why use more than we need to?
    Greg North - Sales & Marketing Manager, BMW Motorcycles Of Charlotte & Greensboro
    There are motorcycle owners, and there are motorcycle riders.
    And then there are those of us for whom motorcycling is an essential part of our journey - a way of life, and looking at it.

  4. #19
    Registered User David13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    995
    If you are going to be doing anything to this bike that you are going to be getting, I think you should get the Rep ROM for it, and maybe the Haynes book if they have one for the newest model.
    That way you can get a good idea, or two good ideas on how to do anything to the bike.
    More than once I got the book or the CD before I got the vehicle.
    As to those splines, the they that recommend I think is not BMW but owners. I guess if the splines get dry they shatter or strip. You need a high pressure grease for them, I think they recommend Honda Moly.
    dc

  5. #20
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    SW Iowa
    Posts
    6,289
    Quote Originally Posted by David13 View Post
    As to those splines, the they that recommend I think is not BMW but owners. I guess if the splines get dry they shatter or strip. You need a high pressure grease for them, I think they recommend Honda Moly.
    dc
    This is what BMW recommended around 2012, 2013. It may have changed by now.

    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  6. #21
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    AL/FL Gulf Coast
    Posts
    311
    Quote Originally Posted by ncpbmw1953 View Post
    Hehe, I guess I'm not the only one who doesn't have a clue 69 views later
    Kinda silly not to buy a service manual or at least Jim Von B's service disc before you undertake such tasks...

    http://www.beemerboneyard.com/madv.html

  7. #22
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    690
    I hear y'all on getting a reference. I bought the CD for my F800GT and have used it a few times for a few things. It was only $19 on eBay.

  8. #23
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    690
    Quote Originally Posted by ExGMan View Post
    Seems to me that little edges of things created during manufacture of a motor might (or not) be knocked off during 12K miles of use. I wonder if there's a way to measure that (presuming you use the same procedure next time) when you do it again. Uh-oh...sounds like another oil thread...
    I did the side-stand drain next time--no metal flecks. I think it must have been the bits from initial brake in, settled on the bottom of the crankcase that quite apparently doesn't get drained w/o this step, at least on an F800 engine. When I get my RTW I will see if that's possible to do on the first oil change after the 600 mile service.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by ncpbmw1953 View Post
    I did the side-stand drain next time--no metal flecks. I think it must have been the bits from initial brake in, settled on the bottom of the crankcase that quite apparently doesn't get drained w/o this step, at least on an F800 engine. When I get my RTW I will see if that's possible to do on the first oil change after the 600 mile service.
    Drain plug is in the middle if the oil pan. Leaning left won't help.
    Buck in Greensboro, NC
    2013 R 1200 RT Midnight Blue - traded, 2014 R 1200 RT Ebony Metallic, 2016 S 1000 XR

  10. #25
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NE. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    92

    drain plugsl

    Quote Originally Posted by t6pilot View Post
    On my 2015, have changed it with each oil change. Only thing I have done differently is to install a DIMPLE magnetic drain plug on engine and final drive. Much more user friendly than earlier models
    Both drain plugs on my 2015 R1200RT have magnets engine oil/final drive.

  11. #26
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    690
    Quote Originally Posted by bdfbeemer View Post
    Drain plug is in the middle if the oil pan. Leaning left won't help.
    Perhaps it's much better at getting out the dregs as it were then...

  12. #27
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NE. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    92

    Final drive oil change

    Per BMW shop disc.
    warmed to normal operating temp.
    place a suitable tray underneath drain to catch escaping oil
    Remove oil filler plug with sealing ring(top plug)
    remove oil DRAIN with O-RING (bottom plug)
    Drain oil.
    install oil drain plug (bottom plug) with O-ring torque to 20Nm=14ft#.Torx-45
    fill=oil capacity to 180ml
    Install oil filler plug with new sealing ring. torque to 20nm=14ft#. Torx-40

    tools needed = Torx T40, T45. torque wrench-3/8 drive works fine.

    Note, like suggest, I bought my parts needed from the Beemerboneyard.

  13. #28
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NE. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    92

    engine oil drain

    Quote Originally Posted by ncpbmw1953 View Post
    Perhaps it's much better at getting out the dregs as it were then...
    The oil drain plug is pretty large. u can use a clean shop rag into & wipe around with 1 finger to check for foreign material. Never found any Yet.
    Nothing on drain magnets both final drive & engine oil drain plugs.

    2015-R1200RT

    On the boxer W-head some oil does get trapped in the heads. After oil drains, engine that is. I hold the bike, lean first right than left.
    back on center stand to drain.
    I do the same on my ST1300- a lot of oil does drain from the ST when U do this. Bike is very heavy to lean-hang on?

  14. #29
    RadRider radrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Weston, FL
    Posts
    117
    Quote Originally Posted by st13rt12 View Post
    Per BMW shop disc.
    warmed to normal operating temp.
    place a suitable tray underneath drain to catch escaping oil
    Remove oil filler plug with sealing ring(top plug)
    remove oil DRAIN with O-RING (bottom plug)
    Drain oil.
    install oil drain plug (bottom plug) with O-ring torque to 20Nm=14ft#.Torx-45
    fill=oil capacity to 180ml
    Install oil filler plug with new sealing ring. torque to 20nm=14ft#. Torx-40

    tools needed = Torx T40, T45. torque wrench-3/8 drive works fine.

    Note, like suggest, I bought my parts needed from the Beemerboneyard.

    I don't see replacing the drain plug O-ring for a new one. Does it need to be replaced at every FD oil change? The shop manual seems to imply that it is reused.
    RadRider
    2015 R1200R, 2015 R1200RT
    MOA #118928
    IBA # 46323

  15. #30
    Registered User BMARC153920's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Orange County, NY
    Posts
    623
    Quote Originally Posted by radrider View Post
    I don't see replacing the drain plug O-ring for a new one. Does it need to be replaced at every FD oil change? The shop manual seems to imply that it is reused.
    I change mine every time. It's cheap, easy and I never have to have it on my mind.

    Sent from my KFSAWA using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •