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2015 RT Oil Change: Basic Info Needed

B

BMW Triumphant

Ed Kilner #176066
Thinking a bit ahead, preparing to change oil for winter layup later this fall.

Drain plug: looks like a 10mm hex is needed. Anybody know the torque value on installation?

Oil Filter: it's behind a plastic panel on the left. Looks like the panel can be removed by removing two bolts with Torx head. Torque value?

Filter looks like it could be removed with a strap wrench rather than the steel wrench I used on the 2011 RT. Comments or recommendations?

Edit: anybody know the installation torque for the filter?

Procedure Hints: very welcome, if you have any.

Don't know why this info is missing from the owner's manual...and yes I generally don't do much of my own maintenance.
 
Last edited:
These will help:

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead 600 6k & 12k maintenance schedule sheets.pdf

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Tool Lists R1200 Wethead.doc

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead Valve Chart008 copy 2.jpg

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead Torques.xlsx

https://youtu.be/KDoeYK9tvmI

Some hints:

Torque of all bodywork screws is 8Nm. That is barely snug.

Use aluminum foil to protect the exhaust for oil when draining the filter. Guide it with the foil into the pan.

A strap wrench is fine for the filter.

Torques and info in the links above.

Jim :brow
 
Thank you!

jimvonbaden said:
These will help:

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead 600 6k & 12k maintenance schedule sheets.pdf

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Tool Lists R1200 Wethead.doc

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead Valve Chart008 copy 2.jpg

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead Torques.xlsx

https://youtu.be/KDoeYK9tvmI

Some hints:

Torque of all bodywork screws is 8Nm. That is barely snug.

Use aluminum foil to protect the exhaust for oil when draining the filter. Guide it with the foil into the pan.

A strap wrench is fine for the filter.

Torques and info in the links above.

Jim :brow
Click to expand...

Regarding the strap wrench, I can see the use to remove the filter, but can it be used to install the filter, or do I need the filter wrench for that?
 
Jim's DVD is the best
Consider a couple things, correct filter wrench, so you don't crash filter installing
Dimple oil and final drive drain plugs
Final drive is so easy to do on the water boxers, many of us change it with each oil change
 
Silly of me ...

PGlaves said:
Turn the wrench around. It works either way.
Click to expand...

Yes of course, but the refuge of those of use who don't do much work on our bikes and who are afraid of breaking something is to use a digital readout torque wrench.

Recall, I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical, and have been known to break things.

Also, I have some personal experience this year with loss of oil and writing off a bike...

So, if I get brave enough to use the strap wrench to install a filter how do I know it's tight enough?
 
BMW Triumphant said:
Yes of course, but the refuge of those of use who don't do much work on our bikes and who are afraid of breaking something is to use a digital readout torque wrench.

Recall, I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical, and have been known to break things.

Also, I have some personal experience this year with loss of oil and writing off a bike...

So, if I get brave enough to use the strap wrench to install a filter how do I know it's tight enough?
Click to expand...

Snug it down firmly by hand. That is all you really need. Let go of your inner engineer and learn Zen Maintenance!:thumb

Jim :brow
 
Piggy backing (not hijacking) on this thread...
I had 600mile done by the dealer. All good.
They gave me a coupon for a free oil change at 3000miles. All good.
Now I'm at around 7500miles and wanted to go ahead and do an Oil Change myself because of the 6000mile maintenance recommendation in the manual. Then I'll take the bike in to have the brakes flushed (i chose not to do this myself), and have them reset my service indicator.

My questions are:
Does it still make sense? Dealer did say to come back around 6000, as the 3000 was another "look see" to make sure all is well (and it was free... sooo)
Any benefit to doing the final drive as well?
 
BMW Triumphant said:
Thinking a bit ahead, preparing to change oil for winter layup later this fall.

Drain plug: looks like a 10mm hex is needed. Anybody know the torque value on installation?

Oil Filter: it's behind a plastic panel on the left. Looks like the panel can be removed by removing two bolts with Torx head. Torque value?

Filter looks like it could be removed with a strap wrench rather than the steel wrench I used on the 2011 RT. Comments or recommendations?

Edit: anybody know the installation torque for the filter?

Procedure Hints: very welcome, if you have any.

Don't know why this info is missing from the owner's manual...and yes I generally don't do much of my own maintenance.
Click to expand...

Every BMW I've seen since the 1970s uses an 8 mm inhex (allen) wrench for the engine oil pan drain plug.

Strap wrenches are Model T/blacksmith technology---get the proper tool. You couldn't apply the proper torque with a strap wrench in any event.
 
lkchris said:
Strap wrenches are Model T/blacksmith technology---get the proper tool. You couldn't apply the proper torque with a strap wrench in any event.
Click to expand...

In 1.8 million miles worth of oil and filter changes on BMW motorcycles and a lifetimes worth of such changes on cars and trucks I have never, ever, used a torque wrench to install an oil filter.

Peoples techniques vary a bit from hand tight to hand tight plus 1 revolution or a bit more. My personal choice has been and is hand snug plug 3/4 revolution. I've never had an oil filter gasket fail, or leak.

I do have end-cap style cup wrenches for several size filters which I drive with a 3/8" drive ratchet. I also have a couple of steel-strap style filter wrenches.

Note: it is possible to dent a stubborn filter in removing it, just like it is possible to "strip" and lose adhesion with an end-cap cup wrench. My cup wrenches have holes drilled to insert sheet metal screws (watch out for the mess) with very stubborn filters.

When using a strap wrench the sturdiest place to affix the wrench is right at the outbourd cap end.
 
The proper tool for an oil filter install is a "hand." Its people wrenching them on hard that causes all the frustrations and crushed cans when we're trying to take them off! You hope a good mechanic uses a torque wrench on your wheels... but on fairing screws and oil filters? Get real!
 
lkchris said:
Every BMW I've seen since the 1970s uses an 8 mm inhex (allen) wrench for the engine oil pan drain plug.

Strap wrenches are Model T/blacksmith technology---get the proper tool. You couldn't apply the proper torque with a strap wrench in any event.
Click to expand...

The Wetheads now use a 10mm and the plug is the same size of the earlier model transmission fill plugs.

trying to remove a few oil filters that were not installed to snug, then 1/2 turn installed requires blacksmith tools and skills at times. Have yet to see a certified tech use a torque wrench for a filter. Have seen same certified techs use screws in the official filter tool and a strap on a K wedge to get a overtightened/non lubed prior to install filter off a few machines.
 
BMW Triumphant said:
Yes of course, but the refuge of those of use who don't do much work on our bikes and who are afraid of breaking something is to use a digital readout torque wrench.

Recall, I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical, and have been known to break things.

Also, I have some personal experience this year with loss of oil and writing off a bike...

So, if I get brave enough to use the strap wrench to install a filter how do I know it's tight enough?
Click to expand...

Too many things are going on. If that is really the case then I would consider going to the dealer. If I question myself then I let the dealer do it for me.
 
Thanks to All

Very thoughtful comments from you all. Lots of food for thought.

I'm especially grateful for the hints on proper hand tightening of an oil filter.

The citing of examples of what to do to remove an overtightened filter were particularly interesting. I suppose I could do that, but was more afraid of the not tight enough situation.

Dealer services up here in Canada are quite expensive. I've heard of charging $45 CAD per litre for BMW labled oil for wetheads, plus the normal $120 per hour labor charges. Don't know about the cost of the filter. You can see why I am interested in doing the layup oil change myself.
 
Been a professional tech for almost 30 years. I have also never torqued a filter and never had a leak. I simply snug them up tight by hand.

The trick I will pass on is use a little silicone grease on the filter seal Instead of oil. The filter will come loose much easier next oil change. I take them back off by hand usually.
 
On Wix filters there is a 1 through 4 numbering system on the 4 quarters of the filters. The procedure is 3/4 of a turn once the filter gasket makes contact. I have used this "guide" effectively for years though I frequently have to remark the filter so I can see the marks during installation.
This has worked on all screw on filters and yes, I sometimes need a wrench to tighten due to filter location.
Always clean the gasket surface with a clean wiper and oil the gasket to help with the removal.
OM
 
Torque...

I just performed the 600 Run-in service on my 2015 R1200RT...very easy! On this bike I decided to torque the oil filter (11Nm). Its the first time I ever torqued an oil filter and it sure felt odd...at 11Nm it seemed to be a lot tighter vs. hand tightening. I wonder if its going to be hard to remove at the 6000 mile maintenance. Anyway, since I've never remember seeing torque values on an oil filter on my other bikes and vehicles...I thought I would give it a try. Will see...
 
hdtrader said:
I just performed the 600 Run-in service on my 2015 R1200RT...very easy! On this bike I decided to torque the oil filter (11Nm). Its the first time I ever torqued an oil filter and it sure felt odd...at 11Nm it seemed to be a lot tighter vs. hand tightening. I wonder if its going to be hard to remove at the 6000 mile maintenance. Anyway, since I've never remember seeing torque values on an oil filter on my other bikes and vehicles...I thought I would give it a try. Will see...
Click to expand...

The issue with torqueing 11Nm is that it is very easy to over torque it. Low value torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate, and even a high quality torque wrench can give false readings with a rubber seal that is lubed.

Jim :brow
 
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