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Thread: 2015 RT Oil Change: Basic Info Needed

  1. #1
    Ed Kilner #176066
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    2015 RT Oil Change: Basic Info Needed

    Thinking a bit ahead, preparing to change oil for winter layup later this fall.

    Drain plug: looks like a 10mm hex is needed. Anybody know the torque value on installation?

    Oil Filter: it's behind a plastic panel on the left. Looks like the panel can be removed by removing two bolts with Torx head. Torque value?

    Filter looks like it could be removed with a strap wrench rather than the steel wrench I used on the 2011 RT. Comments or recommendations?

    Edit: anybody know the installation torque for the filter?

    Procedure Hints: very welcome, if you have any.

    Don't know why this info is missing from the owner's manual...and yes I generally don't do much of my own maintenance.
    Last edited by BMW Triumphant; 10-14-2015 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Forgot to ask ...
    Ed
    2015 R1200RT; 2011 R1200RT RIP; 2000 Triumph 900 (sold)
    http://triumphantsblog.blogspot.ca/

  2. #2
    Kool Aid Dispenser! jimvonbaden's Avatar
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    These will help:

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%2...e%20sheets.pdf

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Tool%20Li...%20Wethead.doc

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%2...20copy%202.jpg

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%20Torques.xlsx

    https://youtu.be/KDoeYK9tvmI

    Some hints:

    Torque of all bodywork screws is 8Nm. That is barely snug.

    Use aluminum foil to protect the exhaust for oil when draining the filter. Guide it with the foil into the pan.

    A strap wrench is fine for the filter.

    Torques and info in the links above.

    Jim
    www.JVBProductions.com Now, all videos available via download or DVD, or USB for the Wethead.

  3. #3
    Ed Kilner #176066
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    Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by jimvonbaden View Post
    These will help:

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%2...e%20sheets.pdf

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Tool%20Li...%20Wethead.doc

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%2...20copy%202.jpg

    http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%20Torques.xlsx

    https://youtu.be/KDoeYK9tvmI

    Some hints:

    Torque of all bodywork screws is 8Nm. That is barely snug.

    Use aluminum foil to protect the exhaust for oil when draining the filter. Guide it with the foil into the pan.

    A strap wrench is fine for the filter.

    Torques and info in the links above.

    Jim
    Regarding the strap wrench, I can see the use to remove the filter, but can it be used to install the filter, or do I need the filter wrench for that?
    Ed
    2015 R1200RT; 2011 R1200RT RIP; 2000 Triumph 900 (sold)
    http://triumphantsblog.blogspot.ca/

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Triumphant View Post
    Regarding the strap wrench, I can see the use to remove the filter, but can it be used to install the filter, or do I need the filter wrench for that?
    Turn the wrench around. It works either way.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #5
    Registered User
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    Jim's DVD is the best
    Consider a couple things, correct filter wrench, so you don't crash filter installing
    Dimple oil and final drive drain plugs
    Final drive is so easy to do on the water boxers, many of us change it with each oil change

  6. #6
    Ed Kilner #176066
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    Silly of me ...

    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Turn the wrench around. It works either way.
    Yes of course, but the refuge of those of use who don't do much work on our bikes and who are afraid of breaking something is to use a digital readout torque wrench.

    Recall, I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical, and have been known to break things.

    Also, I have some personal experience this year with loss of oil and writing off a bike...

    So, if I get brave enough to use the strap wrench to install a filter how do I know it's tight enough?
    Ed
    2015 R1200RT; 2011 R1200RT RIP; 2000 Triumph 900 (sold)
    http://triumphantsblog.blogspot.ca/

  7. #7
    Kool Aid Dispenser! jimvonbaden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Triumphant View Post
    Yes of course, but the refuge of those of use who don't do much work on our bikes and who are afraid of breaking something is to use a digital readout torque wrench.

    Recall, I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical, and have been known to break things.

    Also, I have some personal experience this year with loss of oil and writing off a bike...

    So, if I get brave enough to use the strap wrench to install a filter how do I know it's tight enough?
    Snug it down firmly by hand. That is all you really need. Let go of your inner engineer and learn Zen Maintenance!

    Jim
    www.JVBProductions.com Now, all videos available via download or DVD, or USB for the Wethead.

  8. #8
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    Anyone who is "crushing" an oil filter on the install is using WAY TOO MUCH force!!!

  9. #9
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    Piggy backing (not hijacking) on this thread...
    I had 600mile done by the dealer. All good.
    They gave me a coupon for a free oil change at 3000miles. All good.
    Now I'm at around 7500miles and wanted to go ahead and do an Oil Change myself because of the 6000mile maintenance recommendation in the manual. Then I'll take the bike in to have the brakes flushed (i chose not to do this myself), and have them reset my service indicator.

    My questions are:
    Does it still make sense? Dealer did say to come back around 6000, as the 3000 was another "look see" to make sure all is well (and it was free... sooo)
    Any benefit to doing the final drive as well?

  10. #10
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Triumphant View Post
    Thinking a bit ahead, preparing to change oil for winter layup later this fall.

    Drain plug: looks like a 10mm hex is needed. Anybody know the torque value on installation?

    Oil Filter: it's behind a plastic panel on the left. Looks like the panel can be removed by removing two bolts with Torx head. Torque value?

    Filter looks like it could be removed with a strap wrench rather than the steel wrench I used on the 2011 RT. Comments or recommendations?

    Edit: anybody know the installation torque for the filter?

    Procedure Hints: very welcome, if you have any.

    Don't know why this info is missing from the owner's manual...and yes I generally don't do much of my own maintenance.
    Every BMW I've seen since the 1970s uses an 8 mm inhex (allen) wrench for the engine oil pan drain plug.

    Strap wrenches are Model T/blacksmith technology---get the proper tool. You couldn't apply the proper torque with a strap wrench in any event.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Strap wrenches are Model T/blacksmith technology---get the proper tool. You couldn't apply the proper torque with a strap wrench in any event.
    In 1.8 million miles worth of oil and filter changes on BMW motorcycles and a lifetimes worth of such changes on cars and trucks I have never, ever, used a torque wrench to install an oil filter.

    Peoples techniques vary a bit from hand tight to hand tight plus 1 revolution or a bit more. My personal choice has been and is hand snug plug 3/4 revolution. I've never had an oil filter gasket fail, or leak.

    I do have end-cap style cup wrenches for several size filters which I drive with a 3/8" drive ratchet. I also have a couple of steel-strap style filter wrenches.

    Note: it is possible to dent a stubborn filter in removing it, just like it is possible to "strip" and lose adhesion with an end-cap cup wrench. My cup wrenches have holes drilled to insert sheet metal screws (watch out for the mess) with very stubborn filters.

    When using a strap wrench the sturdiest place to affix the wrench is right at the outbourd cap end.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  12. #12
    Back in the saddle again mikegalbicka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    everything he said
    +1

  13. #13
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    The proper tool for an oil filter install is a "hand." Its people wrenching them on hard that causes all the frustrations and crushed cans when we're trying to take them off! You hope a good mechanic uses a torque wrench on your wheels... but on fairing screws and oil filters? Get real!

  14. #14
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Every BMW I've seen since the 1970s uses an 8 mm inhex (allen) wrench for the engine oil pan drain plug.

    Strap wrenches are Model T/blacksmith technology---get the proper tool. You couldn't apply the proper torque with a strap wrench in any event.
    The Wetheads now use a 10mm and the plug is the same size of the earlier model transmission fill plugs.

    trying to remove a few oil filters that were not installed to snug, then 1/2 turn installed requires blacksmith tools and skills at times. Have yet to see a certified tech use a torque wrench for a filter. Have seen same certified techs use screws in the official filter tool and a strap on a K wedge to get a overtightened/non lubed prior to install filter off a few machines.
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

    Be decisive, right or wrong.The road of life is paved with
    flat squirrels who couldn't make a decision~unknown

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Triumphant View Post
    Yes of course, but the refuge of those of use who don't do much work on our bikes and who are afraid of breaking something is to use a digital readout torque wrench.

    Recall, I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical, and have been known to break things.

    Also, I have some personal experience this year with loss of oil and writing off a bike...

    So, if I get brave enough to use the strap wrench to install a filter how do I know it's tight enough?
    Too many things are going on. If that is really the case then I would consider going to the dealer. If I question myself then I let the dealer do it for me.

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