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2011 R1200 RT Wunderlich clutch replacement

I'm wondering if anyone has experience with Wunderlich clutch parts, or any other aftermarket brand?

If I may be so bold (and not answer your question), why do you need a clutch on a 2011? Seems a bit early to me. In general the dry clutches seem to be pretty robust.

JayJay
 
If I may be so bold (and not answer your question), why do you need a clutch on a 2011? Seems a bit early to me. In general the dry clutches seem to be pretty robust.

JayJay

Well, it has 80,000 km on it and accelerating hard in 4th, 5th or 6th on the highway at 4000 rpm causes a rise in revs, so something is worn in there. No oil leakage, btw.
 
Well, it has 80,000 km on it and accelerating hard in 4th, 5th or 6th on the highway at 4000 rpm causes a rise in revs, so something is worn in there. No oil leakage, btw.

I would bet on oil contamination or clutch fluid contamination, but only disassembly will tell for sure.
 
Well, it has 80,000 km on it and accelerating hard in 4th, 5th or 6th on the highway at 4000 rpm causes a rise in revs, so something is worn in there. No oil leakage, btw.

That sounds like a reasonable excuse to pull it apart to take a look. Thanks.

BTW, I've had good luck, service and very reasonable prices buying parts from Motobins in the UK. Even with currency conversion and shipping, costs for European parts are typically considerably less than buying them in the USA. For example, price for an oilproof (?), heat resistant friction disc for a hex/camhead is 120GBP, which comes to around $185.00 plus shipping. Beemer Boneyard lists it at $259.95.

Those are USD, by the way. Not sure what the conversion to CD is.

JayJay
 
RT clutch

Well, I guess the mechanic will find out what exactly the issue is. I was just wondering if anyone recommended other-than-BMW parts.

Thanks for the replies.
 
2011 RT clutch replaced at 80,000 km

Turns out the clutch was worn out. No problems with seals, slave cylinder etc. etc. I had the seals replaced anyway.

On a related point, I was advised that when stopped at a traffic light etc. it is recommended to shift to neutral and release the clutch on the RT.


(I am aware that some say you should keep it in gear for a quick get-away. I think that falls into the same category as wearing hi-viz gear. No conclusive evidence to prove that it helps but might turn out to be a good idea.)
 
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