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My New to me R80/7

While operating the shifter I noticed that the lever hits the exhaust hanger slightly. I am going to make an adjustable rod to bring the shifter up slightly. Unless someone knows one already made. If not and you are interested PM me and ill make more.

IMG_9258.jpg

Another thing that bothers me is the dent in the exhaust. The clamp is busted and I couldn't get the muffler off to fix the dent. I guess I will wait to attempt it further when I do the push rod seals. I am most likely going to weld a stainless steel exhaust in the the near future.

IMG_9259.jpg
 
The shifter hits the exhaust clamp because the bolt section is rotated too much. I'd treat the disease and not the symptom and fix the muffler/header and rotate the clamp to where it's designed to be.

The spring in your shifter linkage is not original equipment--rather a rubber boot that covers the rod is. The spring as shown cannot possibly do anything in any event.
 
lkchris said:
The shifter hits the exhaust clamp because the bolt section is rotated too much. I'd treat the disease and not the symptom and fix the muffler/header and rotate the clamp to where it's designed to be.

The spring in your shifter linkage is not original equipment--rather a rubber boot that covers the rod is. The spring as shown cannot possibly do anything in any event.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I will rotate the exhaust clamp. The rubber root was over the rod and spring. I took the boot off because it was ripped. I guess the spring keeps tension on the rod to keep it from falling out.
 
Does it look like the carbs might have a leak? :lol
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Pitting on master cylinder bore

As many as I've seen, most of them have too much pitting and will not take a "kit" without leaking. I send them to Mark the machinist for sleeving with stainless steel. 800-528-5235, before installing a kit. Much cheaper than the $400+ for a new one!
 
The new battery arrived.
image.jpg

Made a simple bracket to hold it in place.
image.jpg
image.jpg

Uploading from my phone. Not sure why the pictures got rotated.
 
1074 said:
As many as I've seen, most of them have too much pitting and will not take a "kit" without leaking. I send them to Mark the machinist for sleeving with stainless steel. 800-528-5235, before installing a kit. Much cheaper than the $400+ for a new one!
Click to expand...

I will give him a call. Thank you.
 
evojet said:
Uploading from my phone. Not sure why the pictures got rotated.
Click to expand...

This is a known problem when taking pictures with an iPhone. There is positional information contained within the image (called EXIF) which isn't used by vBulletin software for reorientation. This is just the way vBulletin was written. So if you want images to look right on the forum, you'll need to be sure they are oriented properly before uploading.
 
30064 said:
Evo,

My guess would be no. That looks to me, to be accumulated dirt+grime+oil probably from your Push Rod Seals or other small engine leak being blown back onto the carb.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks. Guess rebuilding them will be a bit later. I'll get this thing running and monitor.
 
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20774 said:
This is a known problem when taking pictures with an iPhone. There is positional information contained within the image (called EXIF) which isn't used by vBulletin software for reorientation. This is just the way vBulletin was written. So if you want images to look right on the forum, you'll need to be sure they are oriented properly before uploading.
Click to expand...

Tough life. I guess people can turn their heads and use imagination.
 
1074 said:
As many as I've seen, most of them have too much pitting and will not take a "kit" without leaking. I send them to Mark the machinist for sleeving with stainless steel. 800-528-5235, before installing a kit. Much cheaper than the $400+ for a new one!
Click to expand...
Good tip- thanks, Bruce!
 
Did a full carb rebuild with all new o-rings and gaskets. Threw them in my ultrasonic and they came out cleaner then ever. Got new shafts and screws just so I didn't have to mess with grinding the screws in the carbs.








Got a carb synch kit from amazon. Has good reviews and is quite cheap. Hope it works as reviewed

 
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Next on the list was the steering stem bearings.I replaced the outer races, bearings and seals. I used the All Balls Racing kit. Also went ahead and replaced the headlight rubbers. I took some time to beat the turn signal brackets back into the proper shape after the previous owner bent them up to fit the fairing :banghead

Of course after I assembled the front end I pulled up the Fork accordion and found a leak. Should have checked it before but oh well. More on that later.




 
Dug into the top end of the motor. Before taking it apart I did a quick leak down test to see whats what. Left side has a 1% leak and right side at 10% on a cold motor. The right side was leaking from the exhaust side. Upon further investigation I found that that exhaust valve guides were set too tight and needed honing. I am getting the valves reground and the seats cut.

I cleaned up the pistons and cylinders and they are ready to be installed. Looks like I have a compression reducing gasket that I will have to reuse.

















 
I replaced the oil pressure sensor with an oil pressure switch a I am no longer using an oil pressure gauge.



 
My great attempt at fixing the front brake. I have no idea what it was like in the first place so we shall see what it does. Everyone complains about how terrible the front brake feel is on the under tank master cylinder. I sent out my master cylinder to Mark Frappier as per recommendation to get a stainless sleeve put in. Only took two week including shipping. He threw some sort of a coating on it and it looks great. Rebuilt kit went into the master cylinder from BMW Huckey. I am also going to use a Spiegler stainless braided brake line and a brand new brake cable. New piston and dust seal for the caliper as well as EBC pads. And what I think will be the key and last hope for any sort of brake feel is the amazing brake fluid, Torque RT700. It works great on my track built Misubishi Evo so I will give it a try on the bike. It has the least compressibility of any brake fluid on the market. I will report on this soon.



 
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