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Thread: 04 R1150R been sitting. Fuel tank rusty. Fuel tank & fuel pump options?

  1. #1
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    04 R1150R been sitting. Fuel tank rusty. Fuel tank & fuel pump options?

    I just got a 04 R1150R with 34k. It has a remus exhaust, wind screen, sargent seat and OEM hard bags. The rest of the bike is stock and in good condition.
    It has been sitting for 3+ years in a carport. I took the tank & fuel pump off to drain the old gas.
    The tank & fuel pump assembly are pretty badly rusted. I guess the tanks have liners cause its just a bunch of dried up big pieces of paper mixed in with the old gas now.
    I know this place fixes rusted tanks.
    http://www.gastanklining.com
    Any other options used tanks seem pretty expensive and getting a matching silver one seems pretty hard.
    The fuel pump assemblys sock, lines, and even the in tank lines need replaceing. Can you replace the in tank fuel lines?
    The fuel pump assemblys body is rusty but i should be able to clean it.
    How do I clean out the rest of the fuel system lines, injectors etc just blow some sea foam deep creep cleaner or something else threw it all?
    This bike has been sitting for three years plus so what else should i change out before trying to start it and ride it.
    I am a BMW newbie but own and have owned a lot of the big 5 bikes mainly dirt bikes with carbs.
    Where are the best places online to get new oem parts and used.
    Thanks for any help I can see this is going to get expensive real quick which is what I am trying to avoid.

  2. #2
    Registered User arthurdent's Avatar
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    www.beemerboneyard.com has kit for everything you've mentioned about the fuel pump/filter/lines/etc. for very nice price. I just did the whole kit on my 04 GS for $160 shipped. Fairly easy swap once I got the 5 gal fuel out of the tank.

    As for tank, they are one of the best resources for used parts out there, too.

  3. #3
    JohnWC
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    I had a very similar experience with a K75 that had sat with gas in it for 4 years. You can try jump starting the pump off the bike, but I found mine never would run until I totally disassembled it, which is actually possible by bending the crimps on the one end. The gears get rusted up. I cleaned it, and then it ran fine, but I ended up getting a new pump anyway. Euro Moto Electrics was my source, but Beemer Boneyard is also good. I found it was not a tough job to replace it all, and I hadn't worked on an "in tank system" before. I was surprised that after changing all the items in the tank, the bike started right up, and ran well. The injectors, pressure lines, etc, didn't seem to be affected by the stale gas that was left standing in the bike's tank. Maybe there's not enough of it in the lines, etc, to cause damage. I think I had about $200 in all in the fuel parts, by the time I was done.

    Unfortunately, the sender unit for the fuel gauge was also about shot from sitting in the old gas. If that's the case for yours, it could get expensive. They are pricey, and for mine at least, very hard to find used. I only say that so you won't be shocked if it happens. Good luck.

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    Thanks for responses.
    I assume I should do all fluids on the bike and plugs. Any good sources & recomendations for them.
    Any other problem areas with the 04 R1150 I should look at or replace?

  5. #5
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlines View Post
    Thanks for responses.
    I assume I should do all fluids on the bike and plugs. Any good sources & recomendations for them.
    Any other problem areas with the 04 R1150 I should look at or replace?
    If the brake lines are original, replace them with non-OEM lines. Spiegler, among others, makes a nice set.

  6. #6
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    It would be a very good idea to send the injectors out to a professional cleaning outfit. They have the know how and chemicals to get the varnish and contaminents out of them. There are mail in places that will even measure flow rates before and after cleaning as part of the service and they are not that expensive. It is important the injectors have equal flow rates in big twins.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  7. #7
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlines View Post
    Thanks for responses.
    I assume I should do all fluids on the bike and plugs. Any good sources & recomendations for them.
    Any other problem areas with the 04 R1150 I should look at or replace?
    Welcome to the Forum redlines,
    Sad to hear the linings shot in the tank...you seem to have a thought on dealing with that.
    As a preventive item, if there is still a cable tie near the steering head nameplate on the harness headed from under tank to upper controls...cut it loose! A common issue here is caused by the hinge effect and breaking wires going to the controls on the bars...seems it is the kill switch more often. Either too tight on original install or just a bad spot to tie it down.
    Replace the quick connects on the fuel lines with a metal style, the OEM from that era WILL break at some point, sometimes a leak or spray while riding! All rubber lines in,outside of tank need replacing as mentioned, brake lines as well.



    A lot of technical stuff was put together on this site belowand is a great resource

    http://www.r1150r.net/
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by arthurdent View Post
    www.beemerboneyard.com has kit for everything you've mentioned about the fuel pump/filter/lines/etc. for very nice price. I just did the whole kit on my 04 GS for $160 shipped. Fairly easy swap once I got the 5 gal fuel out of the tank.

    As for tank, they are one of the best resources for used parts out there, too.
    Good deal, thanks for the heads up.

  9. #9
    JohnWC
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    If the brake lines are original, replace them with non-OEM lines. Spiegler, among others, makes a nice set.
    Definitely a very good idea. I agree on using the Spieglers, too. They are nice.

    I also found the oil level sight glass on the K75 was so clouded, I guess from the oil sitting against it all that time, that it was impossible to use. I think they are about $40, and not hard to replace. You really have to have one that's clear for oil changes, etc. Possibly yours still is. Lets hope so.

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    Thanks for all the help.
    Looks like I have a lot of parts to buy.
    The tank will cost about $450 to fix so thats a big hit. Thats about half of what I paid for the bike, anyone got a silver tank for sale.
    The main electrical connector that goes to the fuel pump assembly is bad. The connector broke right where it goes into the tank from all the old gas varnish.
    Does that after market kit come with all new electrical wires?
    I hope my sender is good the whole unit looks really ruff.
    I assume the best place to get brake lines from is the beamer bone yard.
    That zip tye is still there I will cut it.
    Thanks again this bike is a mystery to me. The whole in tank fuel assembly deal complete with filter, etc seems like a poor design to me but I guess if then previous owner had some Stabil in the tank I wouldnt be haveing this problem.
    Any recomendations on where to send the injectors?

  11. #11

    I used "injector man" here in SW Florida

    The guy is in my back yard, really! It was a 4 mile round trip, took care of a K 1100 set for me, great price and well within the stated quote and time frame. As far as your gas tank goes don't toss it out, it can be fixed if there are no holes or broken studs/bad threads. I used Red Kote to fix an 850 R tank (yeh I know why bother) that sat for over five years with really bad gas,water and ethanol crap. You will have flush it and flush and then flush it a little more to get the peeling and loose liner material out first. Then you have to make a block off plate with a rubber seal for the fuel pump plate, make one for the fuel filler too. I used some 1/4" plywood for the block off plates and an old inner tube to make the rubber seals/ gaskets. Get about a quart of Red Kote and follow the directions regarding preping the interior of the tank. To be on the safe side I would use some thin painters plastic, blue tape and cover the outside of the tank before you use any chemicals as the recommended ones and the Red Kote will peel the paint right off the tank.

    I used Red Kote on my R 60US tank 15 years ago and it still looks like it did an hour after I coated it.

    Injector man Naples Florida and Red Kote. I have no financial or personal connections to either, just good service and satisfaction with results.

  12. #12
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    Thanks I will look into both. I hope red kote works its a lot cheaper than a new tank or sending the tank out for pro repair

  13. #13
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlines View Post
    Thanks for all the help.
    Looks like I have a lot of parts to buy.
    The tank will cost about $450 to fix so thats a big hit. Thats about half of what I paid for the bike, anyone got a silver tank for sale.
    The main electrical connector that goes to the fuel pump assembly is bad. The connector broke right where it goes into the tank from all the old gas varnish.
    Does that after market kit come with all new electrical wires?
    I hope my sender is good the whole unit looks really ruff.
    I assume the best place to get brake lines from is the beamer bone yard.
    That zip tye is still there I will cut it.
    Thanks again this bike is a mystery to me. The whole in tank fuel assembly deal complete with filter, etc seems like a poor design to me but I guess if then previous owner had some Stabil in the tank I wouldnt be haveing this problem.
    Any recomendations on where to send the injectors?
    Since your profile is not filled in we have no idea where you are so recommending a fuel injector cleaner that is nearby is not possible. Suggest you just google " fuel injector service (your location here)" There are TONS of them out there but you want one that will give you the flow data before and after cleaning so you can make sure they are balanced.

    Can't help you with the tank connector on the 1150R. Never seen one but someone will chime in shortly no doubt. Don't get discouraged by these issues. None of these things are show stoppers, just the result of neglect and reversible. Once you get this baby sorted out and running you will have a fine motorcycle and a grin on your face when you ride it.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  14. #14
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    How hard is it to inspect the input shaft splines & clutch?
    My parts total with pro tank repair $450, steel brake lines, metal disconnects, boneyard fuel pump kit, all fluids, filter, plugs, battery, injector cleaning, etc etc, is going to be $1000+.
    I dont want to be $2000+ into it and find out it needs a new input spline, spacer or trans rebuild. Then I would be into it more than its worth.
    I might be better off just parting it out and buying a running one in the 3-4k range?

  15. #15
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlines View Post
    How hard is it to inspect the input shaft splines & clutch?
    My parts total with pro tank repair $450, steel brake lines, metal disconnects, boneyard fuel pump kit, all fluids, filter, plugs, battery, injector cleaning, etc etc, is going to be $1000+.
    I dont want to be $2000+ into it and find out it needs a new input spline, spacer or trans rebuild. Then I would be into it more than its worth.
    I might be better off just parting it out and buying a running one in the 3-4k range?
    You can't fully inspect the splines with the transmission in place but like I said if you remove the starter (disconnect battery first!!!), put her in gear and turn the rear wheel when you look into the cavity where the starter was you can see where the input shaft enters the transmission. If it is turning (and I suspect it is) but the clutch remains stationary, your splines are stripped.

    Here is a short video I did while checking my 1100RT splines for wear. http://vid447.photobucket.com/albums...psjlqmhn1n.mp4 Shows what you will find once the starter is removed. Not a lot of room to see anything much but if you use a strong flashlight and look at the tranny input you can see a very small portion of the shaft. When I do this test I pull the starter, put a zip tie on the clutch after pulling it in all the way to release the clutch and wiggle the now loose clutch plate to see how much play is there. This one is pretty good at 40,000 miles. Now if you do this but do NOT zip the clutch (leave engaged) and the tranny is in gear the wheel and spline is going to turn, the clutch is not if the splines are stripped. And you should hear it sort of grinding in there.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

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