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Battery replacement

How about the PC 680, will it fit in the 1150RT? Also found the new Shorei for $184 and free shipping.

Decisions decisions.....
 
I put a PC680 in my R1150T-P (2004). It was not an exact fit, but the only real difference was that I had to bend brackets slightly, and that I could not utilize the "jump post" that comes on police models. It may have been an exact fit except for that. The battery works great. Incidentally, this bike has, for the entire time I've owned it, had a mysterious tendency to "blow it's own horn" at somewhat of a reduced db level, happened intermittently, always with ignition on and engine off. Went away with the new batt and hasn't come back.
 
I've volunteered to be the "guinea pig" for using a Shorai (LFX21L6-BS12). I've noticed better starting, and no more ABS Low Battery Faults - even after repeated start attempts. It is an exact depth match to the 51319 spec (for depth), but does need a bit of padding on the bottom and side of the battery box to fill out the space and secure itself (no, I do not have pictures - I forgot to take them after getting the thing installed).

Yes, I know about the 'cold start' issues, but it really doesn't get that cold down here in Central Texas. I'll try the recommended battery warm up procedure and starting on the coldest day we have this winter.

As always, YMMV... :dunno
 
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So, the Panasonic battery that I bought when I started this tread almost 7 years ago has finally died, and in the interest of helping as all make informed decisions about things such as batteries, here's how it did.

In that time it's gone about 50,000 miles.

Possibly a silly question, but is the mileage relative to the life of the battery? :dunno
 
Possibly a silly question, but is the mileage relative to the life of the battery? :dunno

For sealed AGM batteries - yes indeed.

The typical failure of AGM batteries is a mechanical failure - not a chemical failure. Usually they die when in interplate or intercell connector physically breaks. This happens because of vibration, jolts, jars, and bumps. It can happen early or it can happen late, but the more miles the more jolts.
 
To expand a little further on what Paul said. Odyssey makes two batteries. One for the general public and one that is rugged. For example, the oilheads use the Odyssey PC680. But, you can also order an Odyssey PC680MJ which is made with a metal jacket to reduce vibration and extend the life of the battery. You can see them here: .

Here is what they say about the Odyssey PC680MJ: This battery offers the same power of the regular PC680 battery, but includes a special metal jacket. This jacket provides the battery with a slightly higher operating temperature range, more resistance to vibration, and protection against debris that may hit the battery when used in compatible applications. The jacket makes it slightly larger than the regular PC680 battery, increasing it's size by approximately 1/10 of an inch. The Odyssey PC680MJ battery combines in one box the characteristics of two separate batteries. It can deep cycle (be recharged) as well as provide enormous cranking power. Only Hawker Odyssey batteries are based on the same battery technology offered by Hawker to the military for aircraft and tank batteries. Odyssey batteries are of military grade and have endured rigorous tests that demonstrate their overall ruggedness and exceptional tolerance of mechanical abuse.

If you want to buy a lead-acid battery look for a battery that has the highest dry weight. The higher the weight, the more lead is in the battery, and the longer it will last.

When you store your bike for the Winter, make sure you hook it up with the correct battery tender. Letting your battery run down over the Winter will cause sulphation build up and this will reduce the life of the battery. You can read more about it here
 
Just saw one of these with the can removed yesterday. (It wouldn't fit with the can around it) :banghead

For our application there is no risk of debris hitting the battery or temperature issues or excessive vibration. I wouldn't pay extra for a battery in a can for an oilhead. Just not necessary or practical.

It was a nice can though. Would make a good battery box on an airhead! :thumb
 
I ended up ordering the PC 680. I have one in my 81 R100RT and it is around 8 years old and been a great battery.

The UB12220 isnt really for vehicles from what I read. The previous owner put it in the bike 3 years ago.
 
95' R1100R /ABS~ Which and Where?

Hi Guys,
Like the title says, I own a 1995 BMW R1100R/ABS. I plan to ride it to the Nationals this year in Salem, OR..
Which battery and where should I buy from? I was thinking 'Westco'. But, after reading about the Panasonic, I'm not sure what to invest in? I use a Deltran Battery Tender. Where is the best 'deal' to be had?
Thanks in advance
James
 
Using google to search for any of the 3 or 4 battery names and part numbers mentioned in this thread will help you find the best deal today. Add the word "price" to your searches.
Prices vary and lead has gone way up since this thread started years ago.

My personal choice for the oilhead is the Odyssey PC680. And I buy them here:

http://sepbatteries.com/pc680-odyssey-battery?gclid=CInczJWW16wCFdIAQAodtmYK7A

$95 and free ground shipping in the USA.

Now you just have to wait for someone to find it cheaper. :laugh
 
I've volunteered to be the "guinea pig" for using a Shorai (LFX21L6-BS12). I've noticed better starting, and no more ABS Low Battery Faults - even after repeated start attempts. It is an exact depth match to the 51319 spec (for depth), but does need a bit of padding on the bottom and side of the battery box to fill out the space and secure itself (no, I do not have pictures - I forgot to take them after getting the thing installed).

Yes, I know about the 'cold start' issues, but it really doesn't get that cold down here in Central Texas. I'll try the recommended battery warm up procedure and starting on the coldest day we have this winter.

As always, YMMV... :dunno
I have one too. Bought the 12ah version for my Triumph Tiger but it had a defective board in it. They sent me a new 18ah, free including shipping both ways. Put it in the GS, had cold weather issues. They sent me the same 21ah that you have. Free again including shipping. Didn't see any improved starting at all, but then the stock started just fine. When it gets cold, you have to learn the drill because it will appear like your battery is near dead. Once it gets started everything is OK. Don't think I see any real advantage with it other than it is very light compared to any lead acid battery.
 
I have one too. Bought the 12ah version for my Triumph Tiger but it had a defective board in it. They sent me a new 18ah, free including shipping both ways. Put it in the GS, had cold weather issues. They sent me the same 21ah that you have. Free again including shipping. Didn't see any improved starting at all, but then the stock started just fine. When it gets cold, you have to learn the drill because it will appear like your battery is near dead. Once it gets started everything is OK. Don't think I see any real advantage with it other than it is very light compared to any lead acid battery.

We sold these types of batteries for a period of time but ended up with so many no starts we stopped handling them altogether. I have a feeling they need further development time.
 
I'm on my 2nd PC Odyssey & they've been great. 1st one was 5 years old & I proactively replaced it as I was taking 2 long trips. I use a battery tender in the winter.

Sent via mental telepathy.
 
Anyone can do a SEARCH...

I am asking the members who have or who have owned this bike , "What do you recommend and, where did you get it"?
 
your question of "what battery?" is the probably the 3rd most common thread question on any m/c forum, surpassed only by "what oil?" and "what tires?" Search the forum, it's fast and easy. the only thing specific to your bike is "what fits?"... and that can be readily answered via the manufacturer's website.
the "who has the best price?" can usually be answered effectively with a google search.

My recommendation (worth exactly what you're paying for it) is do your own research 1st, then ask for confirmation/rebuttal from the membership.
 
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