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Fluids?

djbock

New member
Having picked up the RT a little late in the year am already planning on my yearly storage ritual for the bikes/4-wheelers, etc.

So question for you smart folks before I get everything in line. Engine oil figure pretty much any SF, SG or SH rated oil will work?

Final drive/transmission call for Hypoid 90W. Well all I can find in BMW branded are 75W140 or 80W90. Am assuming 80W90 would be preferable? Also, can I assume any Hypoid 90W (or80w90) will work?

Lastly how many crush washers and what sizes will I need? Have read some posts that state that the drain plug for the trans doesn't need one?
 
SG rated engine oil is best - SH is OK. 20w50

Gear oil: API rating = GL5. GL4 is not suitable.

Transmission - 80w90 or 75 or 80W140 is OK

Final Drive - only 80w90 or 75w90 - nothing heavier, ie no xw140 anything

Engine drain plug is xx.... 252

Transmission fill and drain and final drive fill and drain are xx... 200 = 4 of these

Oilheads don't use the xx... 300 [EDIT - I was wrong]

EDIT - see below. The transmission fill is a xx...300 washer
 
Last edited:
... some snip ...

Engine drain plug is xx.... 252

Transmission fill and drain and final drive fill and drain are xx... 200 = 4 of these

Oilheads don't use the xx... 300

Paul - I respect your contributions but this isn't right. The R1100RT uses one xx...300 crush washer for the transmission fill plug. The other three are 200 crush washers.
 
2004 R1150RT Fluid "Plan"

New owner and member to the site.

Planning on Spectro 20w50 HD for the engine, the K&N KN-163 filter and Spectro GL-5 80w90 for the tranny and final.
Crush washer (and fill plug gasket) kit from: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/7119963252.html

Could use some help on exact quantities of fluids and torques.

I've heard:
3.9 quarts for the engine
1000cc for transmission
250cc for final drive

30n/m for engine drain
11n/m for engine filter
30n/m for both tranny drain and fill
23n/m for both final drive drain and fill


Any cautions/feedback?
 
Have read some posts that state that the drain plug for the trans doesn't need one?


You are correct....the 2000 1100RT does not use a crush washer on the drain plug. I assume that this whole generation of RT is the same, but, don't quote me on that.
 
You are correct....the 2000 1100RT does not use a crush washer on the drain plug. I assume that this whole generation of RT is the same, but, don't quote me on that.

Parts fiche shows one anyways and most 11xx bikes I see have one...maybe out of habit.:dunno

I torque a lot of things, I let the crush washer crush and move on...no leaks or stripped threads on many bikes...but thats me.
 

You gotta love Wiki and you also have to take it all with a huge grain of salt. Step number 4 says to remove the "Oil Filler Cap" which is probably a typo for Oil Filler Cap. The problem however is not the spelling but the fact that no such "Cap" exists on an 1100RT that I have ever seen and I've seen more than a few.

There is an oil filter there in a recess but there is no "Oil Filler Cap". It would be interesting to see someone add oil upside down from the bottom of the oil pan though...
 
You are correct....the 2000 1100RT does not use a crush washer on the drain plug. I assume that this whole generation of RT is the same, but, don't quote me on that.

When I enter my 2000 RT serial number at realoem.com it indicates two crush washers (fill and drain) for the plugs on my transmission. The bike was made in March 2000.
 
happy wanderer............the first time I ever did a transmission fluid change on my 2000 RT there was no crush washer to be found. I thought that it may be stuck up against the threads in the drain hole , and I searched up that drain tunnel for some time but alas no crush washer. When I replaced the drain plug, I installed a crush washer and completed the fluid change. Fast forward to a TECH Session held for oilheads at the nearby BMW dealership. The head mechanic at the dealership was showing some basic tasks for everyone to see, such as air filter change, setting valve clearences, engine oil and filter change....that type of thing. When he was talking about changing the oil in the tranny he mentioned that the 2000 RT had no and required no crush washer due to the mating surfaces of the plug and tranny case. Its like a hydraulic fitting, no crush washer needed. I then piped up stating the fact that I had indeed found no crush washer when I performed the oil change, but had installed a crush washer all the same. He told me I will most likely have oil weeping past the seal and that I should keep a close eye on it. Well, the crush washer never did allow oil to pass, and the next time I did a tranny oil change I heeded his word and never installed the washer. It isn't leaking yet. I have to guess that some RT's require the CW and some do not.
 
happy wanderer............the first time I ever did a transmission fluid change on my 2000 RT there was no crush washer to be found.

My "S" (the best BMW ever made, btw :D) doesn't need no stinkin' no crush washer on the tranny drain plug.

And the parts fiche doesn't show one.
 
My "S" (the best BMW ever made, btw :D) doesn't need no stinkin' no crush washer on the tranny drain plug.

And the parts fiche doesn't show one.

The R1100S was the first with a 6 speed transmission and it was a somewhat weird duck.

The later 6 speed in my 1150 has a crush washer. And so does Voni's earlier R1100, 5 speed.

I think they tried something in late '99 or '00 that they later thought better of.
 
happy wanderer............the first time I ever did a transmission fluid change on my 2000 RT there was no crush washer to be found.
big snip.......
I have to guess that some RT's require the CW and some do not.

That may be true but the washer is in the fiche for my 2000RT so I install one. And it does not leak. That said, I have noticed the drain plug bolt has a slightly different shoulder than the other ones on the bike so perhaps this is the case.
 
2004 R1150RT Fluid "Plan" - any input on K&N air filters

New owner and member to the site.

Planning on Spectro 20w50 HD for the engine, the K&N KN-163 filter and Spectro GL-5 80w90 for the tranny and final.
Crush washer (and fill plug gasket) kit from: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/7119963252.html

Could use some help on exact quantities of fluids and torques.

I've heard:
3.9 quarts for the engine
1000cc for transmission
250cc for final drive

30n/m for engine drain
11n/m for engine filter
30n/m for both tranny drain and fill
23n/m for both final drive drain and fill


Any cautions/feedback?

I received my Clymer Manual (didn't realize that Haynes actually owns them) and ended up with the following corrections to the above:

4.0 quarts for the engine
800cc for transmission
230cc for final drive

32n/m for engine drain
11n/m for engine filter
23n/m for both tranny drain and fill
23n/m for both final drive drain and fill

I found out, my own mistake for not reading the description, that the crush washer pack received ONLY had engine oil washers (why I need 6 at a time, I don't know). I went ahead and ordered the tranny and final drive crush washers so I could finish the job (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fnltrnscws2.html).

I also made a switch over to a K&N engine oil filter (it has a 17mm nut welded to the bottom) even though I was able to find the 76mm 14-fluke oil cap wrench at my local Pep Boys (http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/8397142/00815).

I'm planning on also switching over to a K&N air filter (http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=BM-0400) and using their cleaning kit on a regular basis. They appear much better quality than the OEM. Any converts out there?
 
I received my Clymer Manual (didn't realize that Haynes actually owns them) and ended up with the following corrections to the above:

4.0 quarts for the engine
800cc for transmission
230cc for final drive

32n/m for engine drain
11n/m for engine filter
23n/m for both tranny drain and fill
23n/m for both final drive drain and fill

I found out, my own mistake for not reading the description, that the crush washer pack received ONLY had engine oil washers (why I need 6 at a time, I don't know). I went ahead and ordered the tranny and final drive crush washers so I could finish the job (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fnltrnscws2.html).

I also made a switch over to a K&N engine oil filter (it has a 17mm nut welded to the bottom) even though I was able to find the 76mm 14-fluke oil cap wrench at my local Pep Boys (http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/8397142/00815).

I'm planning on also switching over to a K&N air filter (http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=BM-0400) and using their cleaning kit on a regular basis. They appear much better quality than the OEM. Any converts out there?

Just wondering, what makes you think that either filter will perform better than the OEM versions?
 
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