Oak doesn't give much info in that article but he does in his April 2001 response to a similar question on an R60/6 bike. Torque plates are one thing that is needed...which I believe puts similar compression on the cylinder during boring as it is when on the bike. Oak mentions that an ID grinder setup is probably the best way to go. He suggests that maybe the 600cc bikes could get away with reboring as the amount of steel liner is relatively large. But boring 900 or 1000cc cylinders is not worth it in his estimation because of the skinnier walls. The walls typically end up being snaky or have ripples in them. Oak suggests that the value might not be there either. Reboring requires new pistons and rings to match the new dimensions. A complete set might be a slightly discounted price and could compare well to buying piecemeal parts.
I've read this notion from a number of sources. When I found that my R100/7 cylinders were out of spec, in the end I chose to go with an aftermarket kit which are basically Nikasil thus no steel liner, being lighter and more effective at heat transfer.
I've read this notion from a number of sources. When I found that my R100/7 cylinders were out of spec, in the end I chose to go with an aftermarket kit which are basically Nikasil thus no steel liner, being lighter and more effective at heat transfer.
