That would be in comparison to my F800GT. I got 58 - 61 mpg. I'm averaging between 45 and 48 mpg with 3,000 miles on it. I expect the mileage will settle in at around 50mpg. It's better than my K12RS. I got 40mpg on it. And about the same on an '87 K75RT.
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My new R1200RS
- Thread starter jamesevans
- Start date
That would be in comparison to my F800GT. I got 58 - 61 mpg. I'm averaging between 45 and 48 mpg with 3,000 miles on it. I expect the mileage will settle in at around 50mpg. It's better than my K12RS. I got 40mpg on it. And about the same on an '87 K75RT.
hhmmm.....it's pretty much impossible to ride this bike at under 55mph. It just wants to go-o-o-o-o!!!
Yes, it takes premium.
It's confusing that the owner's manual says 89 AKI, which is mid-grade.
shootersteve77
New member
Nice to hear everyone likes the RS. I'm seriously thinking about putting one in my garage..... it looks like a perfect balance between luxury and sport for me. Keep the feedback coming!
jamesevans
New member
View attachment 50736 After 2000km I'm getting 50-52 mpg - and that IS on 89 octane super, not premium. It runs better on this than my old RT did on premium. It hasn't rained yet while I've been out, so no comments on rain mode, but dynamic mode does sharpen things up - I gave 'er a little tweak through the gears the other morning and was a little shocked to find I was going 190km/h when I looked down. She was still coming on very strong indeed. Performance is - ahem - adequate. And the handling is a dream. Happy? You bet!
lee
Debbie's Servant
James
Does the Bag Connection tank bag work well on the RS?
Can you see the GPS over the bag?
Do any of the switches hit the bag at full lock?
Were you able to look at a BMW bag? I see the BMW bag is only 5 liters unexpanded, which is pretty small. 5 liters is the same size as my wife's DayPack2.
So far I have not been able to see any of the R or RS accessories in person.
kbeck44889
New member
sailorlite
New member
Is the position of the windshield adjustable underway, as on the new GS? Or would I need to break out some tools?
jamesevans
New member
You COULD adjust underway, but you might need the tools after. Easily done at the side of the road with no tools, sitting on the bike.
jamesevans
New member
James
Does the Bag Connection tank bag work well on the RS?
Can you see the GPS over the bag?
Do any of the switches hit the bag at full lock?
Were you able to look at a BMW bag? I see the BMW bag is only 5 liters unexpanded, which is pretty small. 5 liters is the same size as my wife's DayPack2.
So far I have not been able to see any of the R or RS accessories in person.
The Bags Connection bag works fine. No interference with arms or sightlines, even with the map pouch on top and the expansion unzipped (you notice it's there in the maximum size configuration but it's not a problem).
michaelrm69
New member
You can, though not in the same way as the GS. You pull up on the RS screen to get it to move, but it's kind of awkward to do while riding with one hand. The few times I've tried it I've resulted to flipping on the CC and using both hands to pull up the screen in one quick movement. Best thing would be to do it at a stop if your not comfortable with the 2 hands off the bars method.
shootersteve77
New member
Protection Bars
I'm glad to hear all the positive comments on the new RS. I'm seriously considering this as the replacement to my S1000R very soon. If I can swing it, I'll keep them both. I was wondering if the engine bars are really essential? I know a fall as speed would probably cause quite a bit of damage, but I'm more concerned with a static drop from uneven footing when stopping. Would it be just cosmetic damage to the heads , or serious mechanical damage? I notice BMW and other companies offer covers for the heads as an alternative and wondered if they are good enough? Basically I just don't like the looks of the large bars surrounding the engine but will live with them if necessary.
Thanks.
I'm glad to hear all the positive comments on the new RS. I'm seriously considering this as the replacement to my S1000R very soon. If I can swing it, I'll keep them both. I was wondering if the engine bars are really essential? I know a fall as speed would probably cause quite a bit of damage, but I'm more concerned with a static drop from uneven footing when stopping. Would it be just cosmetic damage to the heads , or serious mechanical damage? I notice BMW and other companies offer covers for the heads as an alternative and wondered if they are good enough? Basically I just don't like the looks of the large bars surrounding the engine but will live with them if necessary.
Thanks.
I don't like the look of the bar either...and don't feel they are necessary on a road bike. Have said that I have alway, at some point tiped my bike over or put my foot down it it slid out for some reason...dropping the bike on its head aka valve cover. dings and scratches resuliting
I just put the machineartmoto head protectors on my new RS. I am impressed they have a "harder" exposed plastic/nylon?? with a much softer compesable inner liner to absorb the energy. Mount easily...high quality...check out their web site.
no I have not dropped the bike to try them yet
Rinty
New member
Steve: here's a pic of my ST's cover after a static drop on the Galena Bay Ferry ramp. There's some scratches on the fairing as well. If I ever sell the bike, I'll have it re painted.
I'm a minimalist, so prefer not to have guards. And I worry about damage to the cases if the guards hit hard enough.
James and others:
Thanks for the reports on your bikes. Rider and motojournalist imprressions are now trickling in, and they're basically all positive, glowing, even.
I've given much thought to getting one, but my ST is perfect for me.....
mneblett
#32806
If you don't like the look of the scalfolding-type bars, you don't like them -- nothing wrong with that. For zero-speed tip-overs any of the valve cover-mounted protectors will do.
A FWIW: I have a set of Ilium Works bars on my wethead for two reasons:
(i) they give me a place to mount lights and (eventually) highway pegs, and
(ii) in a low-but-not-zero-speed get-off they will keep most, if not all, of the forces/torques from the road surface off of the entire cylinder.
For example, a couple months ago I was wedged into a Jersey wall on one of my oilheads and knocked down by a merging car at 25-30 mph; probably at or below 20 by the time the bike was on its right side. The crash bar kept the cylinder off the pavement (well, there was a tiny bit of rash on the paint of the valve cover). Having the bars meant that when I was doing the repairs, I did not have to worry whether there was any valve cover-to-head, head-to-cylinder or cylinder-to-crankcase damage or leaks, or (as can often happen in a drop involving sliding on the valve cover) worry about whether the valve cover bolts had broken any of their small threaded bosses in the head (replacement head or a good Aluminum TIG welder required). The wethead is slightly different, in that its cylinders are integrally formed with the crankcase -- which may or may not be an advantage (no oil leakage at a cylinder base, but damage requires replacement of the entire half of the engine case). Another reason I chose to go with full bars -- that said, if you are going fast enough that cylinder/crankcase damage is a possibility, you have far bigger problems than a set of engine bars is going to solve.
Again, not trying to change your mind if you don't like the exo-skeleton look -- just providing "full info" for an informed choice.
Oh, just thought of another downside of full bars: maintenance -- few bar set-ups (at least ones that offer real protection) allow the valve covers to be removed with no bar removal or disassembly (this is another reason I chose the Ilium Works bars -- no interference with valve adjustments).
