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Thread: Steering Head Bearings - R100 GS

  1. #1
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Steering Head Bearings - R100 GS

    I tried the Search feature, but as usual came up with everything but the subject line.

    After 25 years, I decided to replace the steering head bearings on my 1990 R100 GS.

    I'm right down to the frame with the outer races of the taper bearings still installed.

    Normally removal would be easy, but BMW in their infinite wisdom designed it in such a way that there is no lip or any part of the bearing race to use a punch against. And you can't even use a blind bearing puller...because there is no lip.

    So how are these removed.

    Any ideas appreciated.

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Alex -

    Yeah, the search function bites on vBulletin. I wrote up a few approaches in the following link; usually what works best is to try the google function in the top menu bar:

    http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....-the-MOA-Forum

    I did that and came up with the following; I don't think GS bearings are any different than any other Airhead steering stem bearings:

    http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....-Head-Bearings

    http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....ngs-1971-R75-5

    http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....al-Head-Steady

    http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....stock-bearings

    HTH...
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Thanks Kurt,

    I found a thread recommending the Kukko 21-6 blind hole bearing remover (I have a set, but not with one that large ~42 mm).

    I even have a TIG welder that I would normally weld a washer to the outer race and then knock it out from the other side, but the TIG welder outlet is in the basement and the motorcycle is in the garage.

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    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalRider View Post
    but the TIG welder outlet is in the basement and the motorcycle is in the garage.
    Don't they make extension cords for these?

    Cycleworks can probably help out...not a quick fix, but I suspect that would have what you need.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Don't they make extension cords for these?
    Maybe one day. But have you priced a 50-foot extension with a 240V 50A plug/receptacle at each end. This ain't no toy.


    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Cycleworks can probably help out...not a quick fix, but I suspect that would have what you need.
    Just ordered.

    I have lots of time to clean everything up for a smooth and quick reassembly when the tool arrives.

  6. #6
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalRider View Post
    Maybe one day. But have you priced a 50-foot extension with a 240V 50A plug/receptacle at each end. This ain't no toy.
    We found it easier to make a long cord and install it on the welder. Still not cheap, though.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
    We found it easier to make a long cord and install it on the welder. Still not cheap, though.
    When my garage gets fully finished (air, heat and interior paint), I'll stick a panel with numerous different outlets on the wall. The 200A main electrical panel in the basement is directly behind and below the garage. A couple of short runs of cable needed then. In the mean time...

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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalRider View Post
    When my garage gets fully finished (air, heat and interior paint), I'll stick a panel with numerous different outlets on the wall. The 200A main electrical panel in the basement is directly behind and below the garage. A couple of short runs of cable needed then. In the mean time...
    You in Canada? I have the expanding knife edge puller from cycleworks if you would like to borrow it. I am located in Peterborough and could ship it out.

    I just did the RS, used this for the races... I think it has at least two more pulls in it. For the stem bearing I GRIND it down to a "thin wall" with a cut off wheel and then a little knock splits it so it just slides off.

    BTW... you will need a new bearing shield for under the stem bearing, impossible not to destroy it. it's $6 cdn 31 42 1 234 509

    '81 R80G/S(wp4860 forks, Henderson triple clamp)
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    Past BMWs: '68 R50/2, '77 R80/7, '87 R80GSPD, '76 R60/6, '85 K100RS, '91 R100GS,'87 R100RS

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    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grahamm View Post
    I have the expanding knife edge puller from cycleworks if you would like to borrow it.
    Thanks, but I just ordered up their kit.


    Quote Originally Posted by grahamm View Post
    For the stem bearing I GRIND it down to a "thin wall" with a cut off wheel and then a little knock splits it so it just slides off.
    Same method that I use. I just popped a few inner races off my friend's Porsche that way using a Dremel.


    Quote Originally Posted by grahamm View Post
    BTW... you will need a new bearing shield for under the stem bearing, impossible not to destroy it.
    Got them in advance when I bought the bearings.

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    I received the Steering Head Bearing Puller Set from Cycle Works today and I have to say it worked extremely well. Not bad for $85.

    I used the tool to remove the outer races in the steering head and to remove the lower steering head bearing off the triple tree.

    I have a hydraulic press which I used along with the tube from the kit to press the lower steering head bearing onto the triple tree.

    The outer steering head races were tapped in almost all the way with a nylon faced hammer. The kit was used to get them in that last bit.

    I don't see the point to the upper bearing being a press fit. A slip fit would have been fine.

    The only downside; you need a 3/8 inch hex bit socket (10 mm would not fit). All I have are metric tools, but a 9 mm hex bit worked well enough for the amount of torque that needed to be applied.

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