Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: 1971 R60/5 Charging Issues

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    New York, New York
    Posts
    17

    1971 R60/5 Charging Issues

    Hi Guys,

    Checked stator D+ to diode board B+ test which is throwing out only .5 volts at high revs. Inside of stator shows wear (metal on metal chaffing). Inside rotor has some crusty bits of wire.

    All idiot lights not functional, are they any part of the system to work properly?

    I'm looking to change stator, rotor and diode board to be safe, or do I have alternatives?

    Is there a way to see if the diode board is working itself?

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    20,562
    The idiot lights have to work for the system to charge. I'm not 100% sure on the early /5, but you should see a bright red charge light when the key is pushed in and the engine is not started. If that doesn't happen, then the charging system won't work right. Figure out what first. Yes, it's possible to test the diode board.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User Guenther's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    712
    Is your concern the low volts between D+ and B+?

    What do you read between B+ at the diode board and ground at idle and at ~3.000 RPMs? You should get ~12.5/~13.8V.

    To check the charging light connect DF of the rotor to ground. If the light DOES come on there is a problem with the brushes or the rotor itself. If the light does NOT come on then check the bulb of the charging light.

    To test the diode board you can use a multimeter with a diode check function or, use a small (~5W) light bulb with one end connected to a battery + and use the following diagram to check each diode:

    ChargingSystem.jpg

    1985_on_diode_board.jpg

    To check the diode board best is to remove it from the m/c. For example to test the top right diode in the diagram you connect your battery (+) to the light bulb, the other end of the light bulb to 'U' on the diode board and D+ of the diode board to battery (-). The light should come on. If the light does NOT come on the diode is defect. If the light DOES come on reverse the battery (+) and (-) feeds to check that the diode correctly blocks in this direction - so the light should NOT come on else the diode is defect.

    From my experience the most common fault is the rotator, then the diode board, then the stator and finally the voltage regulator.

    /Guenther
    Last edited by Guenther; 04-23-2015 at 02:46 PM.

  4. #4
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    1,103
    When I bought my R60/5, there were a lot of electrical issues. Since it wasn't my daily rider, I took my time to read the manual, study the wiring diagram and got some good diagnosis help at an Airheads Tech Day (they're all over the country).

    Some of the things I did to resolve are:
    1. R&R all light bulbs inside headlight bucket that operated all the idiot lights
    2. Replaced left and right handlebar harnesses that controlled turn signals, starter, horn, brights
    3. Removed the Starter Relay, took apart, cleaned all the gunk and sprayed with contact cleaner
    4. Went through all wires to ensure contacts on posts were clean and used dialectric grease.


    It's a little of this and a little of that that added up to a robust electrical system - just takes time and patience!

    Let us know how you fare!
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K1200GT & R65LS

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •