Building a workbench

OK, so all the melamine shelving I'd put up 6 years ago came crashing down this weekend. That meant that after I got home from St. Louis, I spent the rest of the day cleaning up all the stuff in the garage, sorting it all out, going to Home Depot and getting started on putting up some new shelves.

The shelving missed all the bikes, with the exception of the top plate, which caught itself on the passenger peg of the airhead. This saved three helmets from crashing down onto the ground at minimum and kept the shelves from crashing into the GS, which would have fallen over, taking out the RT and the VFR at maximum.

The VFR is now in the atrium, hiding. Wierd. Pics later. Anyway, on to the real purpose.

One big difference between the old setup and the new is that I'm going to install a nice big workbench. I've got a basic design sketched out, but am wondering what folks are using for a top surface. I had a masonite surface on my last decent bench, but wonder if folks have had experience with anything else.

Also - Concrete, Corian, Formica and the like are Right Out. I'm going to be yanking a CB750 motor apart and the surface should be able to withstand a motor getting dragged around on top of it, with the attendant oily bits erupting fluids.

I would go with the masonite. Countersink the screws for a smooth working surface. Laminates are not going to hold up and are difficult to replace. In a year or two, unscrew the trashed masonite and replace it. You might want to think about how you attached the shelves. Perhaps some re engineering should be considered?

GeoffMiller said:

I would go with the masonite. Countersink the screws for a smooth working surface. Laminates are not going to hold up and are difficult to replace. In a year or two, unscrew the trashed masonite and replace it. You might want to think about how you attached the shelves. Perhaps some re engineering should be considered?

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Yeah. Total re-engineering is in order here. I used melamine and eventually the stays at the top pulled away from the wall.

This time, I'm constructing boxed 2x4 panels, sheathed with ply and screwing them together like cabinets. It should be much stronger. One of the items I had stored in two big boxes was most of a CB750. I'm going to try and turn it back into a bike so it's easier to store.

As I finish up my new shop space I've been thinking about workbenches too. For design ideas and possibly plans for the home built bench, go check out your local library. Over in the periodicals section one can often find an assortment of "handyman" and woodworker type magazines with feature articles on how to build benches and even outfit an entire shop space.

Don't even pick up the copy of "Woodenboat" you'll find down there in the "W" section unless you have time, $ and drool to spare.

Back when I was a builder of theatrical scenery we used both masonite and metal covered bench tops. Masonite holds up well to most things and is easily replaceable. But it soaks up fluids so I would recommend spending the money on a nice sturdy metal plate to use as the work surface of your motorcycle bench.

A nice 1/8" thick piece of cold rolled steel will last forever and doubles as a ground if you want to do some welding. Or you could go upscale and visit your local restaurant supply house and pick up a stainless steel work surface...ooh la la...come to think of it we have a couple of used restaurant supplies shops here in Seattle I might have to go visit next time I'm over there.

Steve

KBasa said:

I'm going to be yanking a CB750 motor apart and the surface should be able to withstand a motor getting dragged around on top of it, with the attendant oily bits erupting fluids.

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Dave - one thing I saw a tuner friend of mine do was use 2x4s to make a rectangle that fit around the cases so that they didn't slide all over the place. He would screw them down onto his plywood work table and then remove them when not needed. He had boxes for each type of motor he worked on... much cheaper that mechanics stands.

Another suggestion is to look for a company that sells old kitchen equipment. For years I had a set of stainless steel units that served very well as a working surface. Got them for the princely sum of $75.

Ian

Built mine about 4 years ago...2x4' and used and 3/4" masonite sign board for the top (a full sheet size so no cutting involved). I just counter sunk drywall screws into the top of the 2x4'. One other suggestion if you go with open framing like mine is to put a single shelf on the bottom, and build it to height of some rubbermade containers that I could stow things in (think storage bins). That way you still have space below to put heavy stuff on the floor. Works great for me. I also put up a full sheet of pegboard masonite right above it (matches the full size sheet width of the top) and spray painted it white and painted the base and shelf with kilz. I bought some shelf brackets from homestupid so I can just put smaller shelfs on the pegboard.

Metal workbench surface

Dave,

Go to the local sheet metal shop or HVAC guys and get a sheet of sheetmetal cut to size. It will last for ever and is handy for using torch and stuff. In time it will get scuffed up but will still be there for you.

Koop

KBasa said:

I've got a basic design sketched out, but am wondering what folks are using for a top surface. I had a masonite surface on my last decent bench, but wonder if folks have had experience with anything else.

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Build the bench top out of 5/8" chipboard. It is cheap and STRONG. Then, tack a layer of whatever you prefer on top of that. Personally, I like to have a few carpet scraps handy that I can put on the bench under a motor to make it easier to slide around. They're also great when you're disassembling a carb (for example) or working on electronics or anything else with small parts. When the tiny bits hit the carpet, they STOP... instead of shooting off into far recesses and hidden crannies.

flash412 said:

Build the bench top out of 5/8" chipboard. It is cheap and STRONG. Then, tack a layer of whatever you prefer on top of that. Personally, I like to have a few carpet scraps handy that I can put on the bench under a motor to make it easier to slide around. They're also great when you're disassembling a carb (for example) or working on electronics or anything else with small parts. When the tiny bits hit the carpet, they STOP... instead of shooting off into far recesses and hidden crannies.

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I did a variation on this and it has worked quite well for me over several years.
I glued two pieces of 3/4" chipboard together, glued a piece of masonite on top and trimmed the outer edges with strips of oak mitered at the corners. Looks nice and while heavy when it needs to be moved it is very, very solid.

Gizmo said:

I did a variation on this and it has worked quite well for me over several years.
I glued two pieces of 3/4" chipboard together, glued a piece of masonite on top and trimmed the outer edges with strips of oak mitered at the corners. Looks nice and while heavy when it needs to be moved it is very, very solid.

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I like this idea. I had a stand that could hold a bike and that was how I built it.

The carpet ideas are nice too, flash. Thanks.

I hadn't thought of the stainless tables. I might be able to get one for less money than what the lumber would cost, so some pricing is going to be needed.

Here's what it looked like when we started sorting it out.

KBasa said:

I like this idea. I had a stand that could hold a bike and that was how I built it.

The carpet ideas are nice too, flash. Thanks.

I hadn't thought of the stainless tables. I might be able to get one for less money than what the lumber would cost, so some pricing is going to be needed.

Here's what it looked like when we started sorting it out.

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Yikes! What a mess to come back to, good luck with getting it sorted out and getting your bench built.

Here's what we managed to get accomplished yesterday. Just a spot for the riding gear.

I'm going to build a shelf that rests on the top of this to carry the saddlebags. It'll extend on down to the right to another set of shelves that will carry the the camping stuff.

Oh, the VFR is in teh atrium now. This is the view from our kitchen. I had to turn on the sparkly lights and all.

Dave,

I made a workbench from a set of plans the Stanley put out back in the 80's. Basically 4x4's on the corners and the top is one sheet of 3/4" ply cut in half and glued and screwed together. That makes the top 1.5 " thick and it is pds. ( pretty Darn sturdy).

Good Luck.

For some design ideas try this:

http://www.freeww.com/workbenches.html

From the simple to the cool.

Steve

I've built almost-identical benches in my last three houses. The verticals are 2x4s, there are 2x6s on edge to hold the top, the top is a row of 2x4s or 2x6s, and the whole thing's covered (and, in #3, edged) with masonite. There's a shelf at ankle level to keep stuff off the floor. If I ever have to do it again, I think I'll use chipboard for the top like you suggest, flash.

Think about height. I've found that I'm much more comfortable working at a height slightly higher (maybe 2") than normal. I like electrical outlets under the outside edge of the bench (i.e., in front of my belt buckle), so they're fewer cords across the top. I have three outlet boxes in the current 10' bench. There's a grinder at the left corner, a metal vise in the middle, and a more-than-a-century-old wood vise at the right corner. (When I move, I take the wood vise with me!). The garage wall behind the bench is covered with a plywood sheet, full of tool hooks, small fastener cabinets, etc.

I like your clothing and helmet storage, perhaps because we have a nearly identical construction.

I spent many years as a cabinet maker, We use to use a ?? ÔÇ£ masonite product called colonial white. It is made for showers so it is water proof and can be cleaned with most solvents. When it gets trashed just rip it off and stick another piece down. Lowes sold it for > $10.00 a sheet but that was awhile ago.

I like the tempered masonite as a work surface. You might also want to get yourself a non skid piece of material to put down when you don't want stuff slidding around. I use the cheap drawer liner from Sears. Also something I did with mine was put in two plug strips in as I was planning, one on the back side of the bench and one on the front side. It made it real easy to plug stuff in.

I'll add my voice to the masonite top. Easy to sheet-rock-screw down to a 5/8" 4X8, easy, and cheap, to replace. That waterproof stuff sounds nice, I just use the painted on one side version.

Dave, I don't know if you remember, but when I first joined the forum we corresponded about some shelves in your house. I went ahead and built my version, out of uni-strut. This stuff is cheap, built like a brick s**t-house, and easy to work. I'll post a pic of my shelves this evening.
I'm lucky in that I have a cheap (free) supply of one of the best shelf/desktop substance known to man. Arboron We use it to cover the deck and run 20 ton set pieces over it. When we put in a new show, we'll we pull up these $1k 4X8s and divey
'em up before we lay new ones.
Anyway, I digress. A frame of uni-strut topped with a panels of your choice is an easy, cheap (relatively, for the durability/changablility of it) and quick way to make some workspace.

In my basement workshop I have a 4 foot long bench constructed from 2x4's laid side by side to make a 2 foot wide work surface with a 2x8 on the back edge. It is drilled thru and held together with long threaded rods. I could send you a picture or two or post some. It is very sturdy.

In my garage, I use a small steel welding table I made a few years ago and another old home made table topped with 1 by boards and then clad with a sheet of stainless steel. It is very old, My dad made it in the 50's

My British and Indian restorer buddy just uses kitchen counter top blanks. He hawks his material from building supply liquidation auctions.