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Thread: Final drive question

  1. #1
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    Final drive question

    Im reassembling my R90/6 and am questioning how much drag should be on the final drive. I sent it to the nice folks in Oregon to have the splines redone. I did not change anything else on the unit. I put it back together the same as it came apart. All I did was remove the housing nuts and pull out the gear for repair. When I reassembled it I was careful to put it together as it came apart. Prior to torquing the nuts it's was pretty easy to spin from the drive shaft. I torqued the housing nuts to 13lbs as per the manual and it was substantially more difficult to spin. I don't believe I should mess with the shims as the wear marks on the gears were spot on. Maybe I'm just not remembering how much drag was present prior to the repair.image.jpg

  2. #2
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Jinx, did you tighten the four nuts that secure the final drive to the drive shaft tube BEFORE you installed the axle? SOP is to install the nuts finger tight, insert the axle, snug up the axle nut, and then fully tighten the four nuts. This ensures that the FD is aligned with the axle properly.

    Or did you just remove the housing cover?

    edit _ this is just a personal idiosyncrasy of mine: the lower shock bolt (left side) is easier to remove if the nut is on the "outside"; otherwise the silencer has to be dropped to remove the bolt. The bolt you have there looks a bit longer than it needs to be.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  3. #3
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    Final Drive

    Quote Originally Posted by lmo1131 View Post
    Jinx, did you tighten the four nuts that secure the final drive to the drive shaft tube BEFORE you installed the axle? SOP is to install the nuts finger tight, insert the axle, snug up the axle nut, and then fully tighten the four nuts. This ensures that the FD is aligned with the axle properly.

    Or did you just remove the housing cover?

    edit _ this is just a personal idiosyncrasy of mine: the lower shock bolt (left side) is easier to remove if the nut is on the "outside"; otherwise the silencer has to be dropped to remove the bolt. The bolt you have there looks a bit longer than it needs to be.
    Nothing is "torqued " yet. Just the FD Housing bolts. Just seems a little stiff

  4. #4
    Nutfarm
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    You didn't check rotation before disassembly did you?

    Tapered bearings require some preload. If you didn't replace any bearings and the shims are the same all should be good.

  5. #5
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    Shimmed

    Quote Originally Posted by Jinxman69 View Post
    Im reassembling my R90/6 and am questioning how much drag should be on the final drive. I sent it to the nice folks in Oregon to have the splines redone. I did not change anything else on the unit. I put it back together the same as it came apart. All I did was remove the housing nuts and pull out the gear for repair. When I reassembled it I was careful to put it together as it came apart. Prior to torquing the nuts it's was pretty easy to spin from the drive shaft. I torqued the housing nuts to 13lbs as per the manual and it was substantially more difficult to spin. I don't believe I should mess with the shims as the wear marks on the gears were spot on. Maybe I'm just not remembering how much drag was present prior to the repair.image.jpg
    Brought the unit to Max's and they re shimmed it. All good now

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