The ferrule is broken, you will have to replace the cable.
Jim
I added the year model to your title to aid help & searches
You may have the same condition as this. Wyman may jump in here with his instructions
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...ight-Throttle-Valve&highlight=broken+adjuster
$18 - worth every penny. These are the same pliers that my friendly local official BMW dealer's mechanic's use. I asked them before I purchased them. Probably also available at NAPA auto-parts stores (might have to be ordered) as these are commonly used on CV joint bands on GM cars.
I had to use mine last weekend - helping out a local club member who had a loose port side chain tensioner housing (leaking oil).. used them for exactly the same reason - removed the TB, and there was room to get the head of my torque wrench and a 14mm socket in to tighten the housing. Using the right tools - it was a 10 minute job. Using some bodge sort of tool - probably would have damaged one of the bands, meaning the friend wouldn't be able to ride the bike home until we found him a new one. Bet the new band from BMW costs a significant portion of the cost of the tool.
What isn't shown in those instructions (the REP-ROM assumes lots of things are "obvious" to trained mechanics) is - to get the cover off the throttle-body, it's first required that the throttle body be removed from the cylinder/air-box. Doing this isn't a terrible job IF you have the correct special pliers used to release and reinstall the tension-bands used to hold the rubber bits to the hard bits. I do suggest trying to bodge this will be a bad move and ultimately expensive. The tool looks like the mouth of Ollie from Kukla, Fran and Ollie (am I showing my age?) - with two opposing teeth that go into raised bits on the bands allowing you to remove, and then install the bands.
I seem to recall finding mine on Amazon.. Lisle CV BOOT CLAMP PLIERS FOR EARLESS TYPE C - LIS30500 - http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-B...=1-1&keywords=Lisle+30500+CV+Boot+Clamp+Plier
$18 - worth every penny. These are the same pliers that my friendly local official BMW dealer's mechanic's use. I asked them before I purchased them. Probably also available at NAPA auto-parts stores (might have to be ordered) as these are commonly used on CV joint bands on GM cars.
Two other comments..
- This sort of failure is typically caused by tightening the lock nut on the cable adjuster too much. Doing this actually pulls the threads apart.
- I've never had to actually adjust my TB's. That's with 87,000 miles on them now. Once the valve adjustment is done correctly - the throttle bodies fall right into sync. And you may want to read the DIY thread on doing the adjustment - it is NOT done at idle. Doing it at idle is going to be very non-productive.
Good luck! PITA to get to the junction box on an RT (it's almost right out in the open on a Roadster..) Plus if you have cruise-control, there will be another cable going to the junction (Bowden) box for the cruising control.
Very similar tool, but about 2x the price of the Lisle. It has parallelogram jaws, but I actually don't see the real need for them in this application. Nice tool, but.. and Amazon carries it.
What isn't shown in those instructions (the REP-ROM assumes lots of things are "obvious" to trained mechanics) is - to get the cover off the throttle-body, it's first required that the throttle body be removed from the cylinder/air-box. Doing this isn't a terrible job IF you have the correct special pliers used to release and reinstall the tension-bands used to hold the rubber bits to the hard bits. I do suggest trying to bodge this will be a bad move and ultimately expensive. The tool looks like the mouth of Ollie from Kukla, Fran and Ollie (am I showing my age?) - with two opposing teeth that go into raised bits on the bands allowing you to remove, and then install the bands.
I seem to recall finding mine on Amazon.. Lisle CV BOOT CLAMP PLIERS FOR EARLESS TYPE C - LIS30500 - http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-B...=1-1&keywords=Lisle+30500+CV+Boot+Clamp+Plier
$18 - worth every penny. These are the same pliers that my friendly local official BMW dealer's mechanic's use. I asked them before I purchased them. Probably also available at NAPA auto-parts stores (might have to be ordered) as these are commonly used on CV joint bands on GM cars.
Two other comments..
- This sort of failure is typically caused by tightening the lock nut on the cable adjuster too much. Doing this actually pulls the threads apart.
- I've never had to actually adjust my TB's. That's with 87,000 miles on them now. Once the valve adjustment is done correctly - the throttle bodies fall right into sync. And you may want to read the DIY thread on doing the adjustment - it is NOT done at idle. Doing it at idle is going to be very non-productive.
Good luck! PITA to get to the junction box on an RT (it's almost right out in the open on a Roadster..) Plus if you have cruise-control, there will be another cable going to the junction (Bowden) box for the cruising control.
Well wman since you asked......If you could forward the fuel tank removal portion on the REP/RPOM that would be highly appreciated.
And thank you agin in advance
