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Thread: 1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

  1. #46
    Hey Brook! Thanks for all your patient explanation and documentation. Great job!

    A quick thread hijack... I noticed you had a battery tender plugged in on one of the background shots. Do you plug the tender in while the battery is in the bike and just keep it on all winter? Reason I ask is that I had a battery in the Motorsport (you remember... Gonzo's buddy in the van? ) and had it plugged in to the tender and it leaked from a seam in the bottom. Not much before I caught it but acid did it's damage. Do you remove batteries when trickle charging? Just curious. Thanks! Now back to your thread!
    Current rides: '76 R90S, '78 R100RS Motorsport, 07 Kawasaki ZX-14... and '65 427SC Shelby Cobra... does not play well with the two wheelers

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by smercer View Post
    Hey Brook! Thanks for all your patient explanation and documentation. Great job!

    A quick thread hijack... I noticed you had a battery tender plugged in on one of the background shots. Do you plug the tender in while the battery is in the bike and just keep it on all winter? Reason I ask is that I had a battery in the Motorsport (you remember... Gonzo's buddy in the van? ) and had it plugged in to the tender and it leaked from a seam in the bottom. Not much before I caught it but acid did it's damage. Do you remove batteries when trickle charging? Just curious. Thanks! Now back to your thread!
    Hi Scott,

    Good to hear from you again my friend.

    I trickle charge with them in the frame. Over the past 10 years of doing this, I've not had a cracked battery case.

    Now, I've powder coated the battery boxes, frame and swing arms, which is melted plastic. So, should I get an acid leak, I'm curious if the plastic will stand up to it? I suspect it would. But, I'm not eager to run a test. :-)

    Best.
    Brook.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  3. #48
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    1983 BMW R100RS Removing Electrical System

    Folks,

    After I removed the fairing and rear fender assembly, I removed the electrical system including the main and sub wiring harnesses and the electrical components attached to the frame.

    As I did this work, I put together a video tour of the electrical system.




    Here are a couple pictures from this document.

    Main Harness Zip Tie Location
    Main Harness Zip Tie Location

    Location of Clutch Switch and Front Brake Switch Sub-harness Connectors
    Location of Clutch Switch and Front Brake Switch Sub-harness Connectors

    Main Harness Leads Near Left Coil
    Main Harness Leads Near Left Coil

    Ignition Module with Connector On Top of Front Brake Manifold
    Ignition Module with Connector On Top of Front Brake Manifold

    Main Wiring Harness Removed
    Main Wiring Harness Removed
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  4. #49
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    1983 R100RS Removing Brake System

    I removed the twin front disk brake system and the rear single disk brake system. The rear brake pedal assembly had a kludge repair to fix the wobbling brake lever. And, the rust was so bad on the rear master cylinder linkage that I couldn't remove the rear brake pedal and had to remove the master cylinder and rear brake pedal together.

    You can see how I did this work here:


    I shot some short videos of how all the brake system components are connected together, but can't post them here as we are limited to only one video per post. You will find the videos in the above link to the write-up.

    This is what the bike looks like at this point. I will remove the disk rotors when I remove the wheels and tires.

    Brake System Removed (Disks Come Off When Wheels Are Removed)
    Brake System Removed (Disks Come Off When Wheels Are Removed)
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  5. #50
    '92 R100GS brittrunyon's Avatar
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    Brook,
    Thanks for all your very informative posts.
    Although not specific to my project bike (90/6) they help tremendously.
    Keep up the great work.

    BR
    1992 R100 GS

    Big Bend Ride video at http://brittrunyon.com/
    More riding videos @ http://vimeo.com/user2721333/videos

  6. #51
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    1983 BMW R100RS Remove Front End

    Folks,

    I finished removing the front end from the bike last week. I wrote up two articles showing how I do this work that you can find here:


    Before doing this work, I also removed the center stand as I put the bike on my portable motorcycle lift to make it easier to remove the wheels and forks.

    In summary, these articles show how to remove:

    • Handlebar controls,
    • Handlebar,
    • Instruments & bracket
    • Steering damper,
    • Front fender,
    • Front wheel,
    • front fender brace,
    • Front forks
    • Steering stem & fork top plate

    I started here:

    Ready To Remove the Front End
    Ready To Remove the Front End

    and ended up here.

    Front End Removed
    Front End Removed

    Next on the list of projects is removing the rear wheel, rear drive, swing arm, rear sub-frame and seat lock mechanism.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  7. #52
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    1983 R100RS Remove Rear End

    Folks,

    I've completed the disassembly of the rear end of this bike. Previously I removed the rear fender, tail light and turn signal assemblies. Now, I completed removal of the rear wheel, rear drive and swing arm. You can read about that work here:


    Next up will be removal of the transmission including the clutch throw-out rod mechanism and the foot shifter mechanism.

    Here is where I started.

    Front End Removed & Ready To Start On The Rear End
    Front End Removed & Ready To Start On The Rear End

    And here is what the bike looks like now.

    Bike After Rear End Removed
    Bike After Rear End Removed

    Next up is removing the transmission, clutch throw-out arm and rod, and the foot shifter.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  8. #53
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    your rebuild is impressive,any tips as to how you got your carbs so shinny
    getting ready to rebuild a set of my own
    thanks

  9. #54
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    How I Refurbish Carbs

    Quote Originally Posted by tinkerer View Post
    your rebuild is impressive,any tips as to how you got your carbs so shinny
    getting ready to rebuild a set of my own
    thanks
    Hi Tinkerer,

    Sure, here is a link that shows how I refurbish them and get them to look new. The rebuild covers the smaller 64/32 carb, but the refinishing technique is the same.


    I also posted a document on rebuilding these larger 94/40 carbs which maybe of interest to you.


    I hope this helps.

    Best.
    Brook.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  10. #55
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    1983 R100RS Remove Carbs, Air Box, Exhaust, Transmission & Engine Top End

    I've finished removing more on the bike and have posted documents about how I did the work here.

    13 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Carburetors & Air Box
    18 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Exhaust System
    23 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Transmission
    11 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Engine Top End

    I also made a short video showing how to remove the top end.


    VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Remove Engine Top End

    At this point, disassembly is almost done, and the real work begins; repair, rebuild and refinishing all the components of the bike.

    Best.
    Brook Reams.
    Last edited by brook.reams; 04-23-2019 at 06:11 PM.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  11. #56
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    1983 R100RS How To Disassemble Down To The Frame

    I got the engine out of the frame yesterday so I'm finished with disassembly (small cheer can be heard).

    I wrote a document that covers the complete disassembly procedure in the order I did the work.


    This may be helpful to you if you are doing a frame off rebuild/restore, or you need to know how to remove various subsystems. The bike, with the exception of the body work, fits into a reasonably small pile of boxes ... sort of a boxed, boxer if you will :-).

    Engine Removed
    Engine Removed

    Naked Frame
    Naked Frame[/caption]

    A Boxed "Boxer"  :-)
    A Boxed "Boxer" :-)


    Onward. But first I'm giving "Grover", the 1973 R75/5 some well deserved attention.


    Best.
    Brook Reams.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  12. #57
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    1983 R100RS Project: How To Remove Push Rod Tubes & Cylinder Studs

    When BMW introduced the Nikasil cylinders in the US in the 1981 model year, they came with the 8.2:1 low compression pistons to help meet EPA requirements. So, my 1983 R100RS has low compression pistons. But, in Europe, BMW provided 9.5:1 pistons and rings for use in the Nikasil cylinders and they are still available.

    The higher compression makes a useful difference in torque and horsepower:

    • The 8.2:1 compression pistons produce 53-Ft-Lb and the 9.5:1 compression produces 56 Ft-Lb and, or about +5% for the higher compression.
    • The 8.2:1 compression pistons produce 66 Hp and the 9.5:1 compression produces 70 Hp and or about +6% for the higher compression.


    I intend to use this bike for two up touring and it has over 80,000 miles on it. So I am going to install 9.5:1 pistons sized for the "B" sized cylinders I have (part# 11 25 1 337 175) to get a useful boost in torque and horsepower.

    New 9.5:1 Piston Kit For "B" Size Cylinder
    New 9.5:1 "B" Size Piston Kit For "B" Size Cylinder

    New 9.5:1 Piston Kit Contents
    New Piston Kit Contents-"B" Size, 9.5:1 Piston (93.97 mm)

    Here is the link to the write-up of the procedure.



    And here is a link to a short video I made of the procedure. It shows the "Risky" way to remove the push rod tubes--and the unintended consequence--and a "Safer" way to do it.

    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  13. #58
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Brook -

    In the video you mention some dimensional difference between the cylinder sealing surface and the edge of the pushrod tube collar. According to Oak, there wasn't any difference there...the collar was exactly equal to the level of the sealing surface. I drew up a crude image of that here:

    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...l=1#post682593

    Obviously, there's a happy medium there. If the collar is too tight or sticks past the sealing surface, then too much pressure is applied to the seals. If the collar is too far away or lower than the sealing surface, there's the danger of not having sufficient pressure on the seals to keep them oil free.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Brook -

    In the video you mention some dimensional difference between the cylinder sealing surface and the edge of the pushrod tube collar. According to Oak, there wasn't any difference there...the collar was exactly equal to the level of the sealing surface. I drew up a crude image of that here:

    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...l=1#post682593

    Obviously, there's a happy medium there. If the collar is too tight or sticks past the sealing surface, then too much pressure is applied to the seals. If the collar is too far away or lower than the sealing surface, there's the danger of not having sufficient pressure on the seals to keep them oil free.
    Hi Kurt,

    Indeed, Oak's recommendation is different. I believe the difference between what Oak recommended and what Tom recommends has to do with which cylinder you have; the older ALFIN cylinders with the smaller diameter push rod tubes in the smaller bore blocks, or the later ALFIN or Nikasil cylinders with the larger diameter tubes in the 99 mm bore blocks. Those changes in the cylinder design and engine block changed the angles of the tubes and that caused changes in the push rod tube seals IIRC (different part numbers for these). Tom's recommendation applies to the later design, which is what I have, so I plan to follow his suggestion.

    As a reference point, I used the 1.75 mm depth on my 1977 RS with Nikasil cylinders (yes, those weren't the original cylinders) and after 2 years and 10,000 miles, I haven't seen any leaks.

    Best.
    Brook.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  15. #60
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    1983 R100RS Project: Remove Connecting Rods

    I'm going to have the Nikasil cylinders on this bike replated and honed to match the new 9.5:1 pistons I'm going to install in this build. I've learned from a well versed airhead mechanic, Tom Cutter, at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage, that the connecting rods are subject to deformation over time such that the distance between the hole centers of the big end and little end of the rod becomes a bit longer than when new. It's worth having them checked and the flat of the connecting rod cap machined to achieve the design distance between the hole centers. This is not very expensive and ought to reduce wear and tear on the wrist pin and crank shaft throw.

    Removing the connecting rods is straight forward once you have the top end removed. This link shows how to remove the top end:


    And this one shows how I removed the connecting rods.


    Here is a short video I made showing the tools and the procedure.

    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

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