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Thread: 1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

  1. #16
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    Love your Icon

    Quote Originally Posted by 22600 View Post


    Thanks for sharing this Brook.
    You're entirely welcome. And, I love the bike and the color in your icon. Very nice.

    Best.
    Brook.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  2. #17
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    Talking 1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Replace Choke and Throttle Cables

    When I did the inspection of the bike, the throttle and choke cables looked pretty worn with kinks showing in the outer armor. The Bowden connector rubber boots are disintegrating. I’m replacing the cables before riding the bike as I don’t want a stuck throttle or broken cable to happen. I found removing the cables from the Bowden connector required a little technique, but once I figured this out for the choke, the throttle was done pretty quickly.

    Here is the procedure I followed:

    Here are a couple before and after pictures.

    Choke Lever Removed from Housing
    Choke Lever Removed from Housing (Note Broken Strand in Choke Cable)

    Choke Cables-Long is Handlebar Cable
    Choke Cables-Long One is Handlebar Cable

    Choke Bowden Connector on Left Side
    Choke Bowden Connector on Left Side with Disintegrating Rubber Boot

    Assembled Choke Bowden Cable
    Finished Choke Bowden Connector with New Cables

    I'm completing a front fork rubber cup replacement and check of the fork alignment. I hope to post that soon. After that, I think the bike is ready for my first ride.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  3. #18
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: BMW Pannier Repair-Cracks, Latch & Lock Numbers

    In 1983, the R100RS came with BMW branded panniers, or saddle bags. Mine have a number of cracks and a broken lid hinge. While I'm waiting for some fork parts to come, I started to repair the panniers. My goal was to try and make the crack repairs invisible. I think I got a B+ this time and learned a lot about how to create the textured surface in the plastic on the outside of the pannier.

    I've tried a plastic repair product, Plast-aid, before to fix the bulkhead connector on a Windjammer fairing. I'm using it on the panniers. It can be colored using Acrylic paint so the Plast-aid color will match the black panniers. I also fixed a broken latch assembly and learned about locks and keys and how to figure out what key you need for a lock. Here is the link to the write-up on this work.

    I discovered that two different keys are not enough for all the pannier locks. Some have been replaced so I have four different locks needing four different keys. I posted a note to the Micapeak Airheads forum about this and learned that the latch locks are no longer available, but, Larry Stonestreet, owner of Stoner's Beemer Stash [ca.stoner@yahoo.com; 951-813-1704] has the keys I need. So all's good. There is a nice page on Bob Fleischer's site about the locks and keys BMW has used with part numbers of the various keys.

    Here are some pictures from the write-up.

    Double Latch Cracks
    Double Latch Cracks

    Mulitple Corner Cracks
    Crushed Corner With Multiple Cracks

    Double Latch Crack Final Repair
    Double Latch Crack Final Repair

    ]Crushed Corner Final Repair
    Crushed Corner Final Repair

    Plast-Aid and Black Acrylic Paint for Tinting
    Plast-Aid and Black Acrylic Paint for Tinting

    Round Dremel Bit for Widening Back of Crack
    Round Dremel Bit for Widening Back of Crack

    Dremel Engraving Tool #106-A Bit Too Big
    Dremel Engraving Tool #106 to Etch Texture Into Plastic-A Bit Too Big, #105 Is Better

    JB Weld Applied to Lock Mechanism Hinge Plate
    JB Weld Applied to Lock Mechanism Hinge Plate

    Pannier #1 Latch Locks Use Key #069
    Pannier #1 Latch Locks Use Key #069

    Panniers Mounted
    Panniers Mounted

    Panniers Mounted
    Panniers Mounted

    Panniers Mounted
    Panniers Mounted
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  4. #19
    Aspiring Profligate Jeff488's Avatar
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    I reckon that's better than a B+!

    Nice work.
    '08 BMW R1200RT
    '08 Suzuki DL650 "Screaming Yellow Zonker"
    Looking for Ed Sanders' Truck Stop.

  5. #20
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff488 View Post
    I reckon that's better than a B+!

    Nice work.
    Jeff,

    You are kind sir. It turns out to be a bit harder than I thought to make an invisible repair. I need to find a way to keep both edges of the crack even with each other. My guess is I need a bigger piece of flat material on both sides of the crack so when I clamp them, the edges can't flex or bend.

    Onward...

    Best.
    Brook.
    Last edited by brook.reams; 05-31-2015 at 11:25 PM.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  6. #21
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Diagnose and Repair Failed Neutral Switch

    Folks,

    There have been some recent notes about the neutral switches and the starting system in the micapeak Airheads forum. It just so happens, I had to work on mine for this project. So, I wrote up the work I did:


    This write-up makes use of some short videos to show what I do. I'm experimenting with how to use video clips to explain things better than just pictures and text can.

    There is a longer video at the beginning in which I explain how I use the Haynes wiring diagram and Bob Fleischer's material to figure out how the neutral and clutch switches work in the starter switch circuit. In the past, I've heard fellow Airheads tell me electricity is confusing and a mystery. So I thought maybe showing how I try and figure out how components work from the wiring diagram when I have a problem may be of some value. Here is a direct link to that video.



    Here are some pictures from the write-up.

    Neutral Light Not Lit
    Neutral Light Not Lit

    Printed Circuit Contacts for Neutral Switch
    Printed Circuit Contacts for Neutral Switch

    Neutral Bulb Pins on Printed Circuit
    Neutral Bulb Pins on Printed Circuit

    Neutral Switch with Grunge
    Neutral Switch with Grunge

    Prying Out Center Engine Mount Spacer
    Prying Out Center Engine Mount Spacer

    Remove Wires From Old Switch
    Remove Wires From Old Switch

    New Neutral Switch and New Washer/Spacer
    New Neutral Switch and New Washer/Spacer

    Neutral Light Works

    Best.
    Brook Reams

    Arvada, Colorado
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  7. #22
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Check Diode Board, Replace Rubber Mounts

    Folks,

    The battery did not seem to be getting charged when the headlight was turned on, so one thing to check is if I have a bad diode. While I'm doing that, I checked to see if I have the original rubber diode board mounts. I did, so I replaced them with metal mounts. Adding the metal mounts will improve the grounding. I can clean up the alternator and the diode board wiring connectors which will improve charging performance. I also decided to put in a new battery and replace the alternator brushes. I'll write-up the brush replacement later.

    Here is the write-up on this work.


    Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.

    Diode Board-Left Alternator Center Tap Wire, Right Battery (+) Wire
    Diode Board-Left Alternator Center Tap Wire, Right Battery (+) Wire

    Rubber Diode Board Mounts :-(
    Rubber Diode Board Mounts :-(

    Right Side Diode Board Mount Nuts-Note Solenoid Wires Removed & Oil Breather Hose Clamp Moved
    Right Side Diode Board Mount Nuts-Note Solenoid Wires Removed & Oil Breather Hose Clamp Moved

    Rubber Mounts-One Broken
    Rubber Mounts-One Broken

    Location of Large and Small Diodes
    Location of Large and Small Diodes

    Solid Diode Board Mount Kit From Euro Motoelectrics
    Solid Diode Board Mount Kit From Euro Motoelectrics

    RTV Silicone Repair to Cracked Insulation
    RTV Silicone Repair to Cracked Insulation
    Last edited by brook.reams; 07-13-2015 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Correct Name of Write-up
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  8. #23
    Registered User Rinty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brook.reams View Post
    Adding the metal mounts will improve the grounding.
    When I had my '82 RS, I had a y shaped wire piece installed, at the board, to improve the grounding. It might have been a BMW upgrade.

    My tech, Dave Anderson, of Anderwerks, spent quite a bit of time detailing the electricals on that bike, and I never had a lick of trouble with them in the 15 years I owned it.
    Rinty

  9. #24
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rinty View Post
    When I had my '82 RS, I had a y shaped wire piece installed, at the board, to improve the grounding. It might have been a BMW upgrade.

    My tech, Dave Anderson, of Anderwerks, spent quite a bit of time detailing the electricals on that bike, and I never had a lick of trouble with them in the 15 years I owned it.
    Rinty,

    As I have learned from Bob Fleischer's material about these boards, there were a couple of service notices that included adding grounding wires to ensure good grounds. The combination of painted metal surfaces on the timing chest cover and the rubber diode board mounts could lead to random and/or failing ground connections.

    Best.
    Brook Reams
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  10. #25
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Replace Alternator Brushes

    Folks,

    I've been tracking down the cause for low charging voltage on this bike. Previously I checked the big diodes in the diode board and replaced the rubber mounts with metal ones. The diodes were fine. So the next step is replacing the alternator brushes and cleaning up the alternator contacts. I now get a steady 14.5 volts from the alternator as the RPM picks up from idle.

    I wrote-up what I did and you can find that content here:


    Here a a couple of pictures from the write-up

    Alternator with Wiring
    Alternator with Wiring

    ]Alternator Output Wires (U, V, W)
    Alternator Output Wires (U, V, W)

    Alternator Stator Assembly
    Alternator Stator Assembly

    (DF) Brush Terminal is Insulated
    (DF) Brush Terminal is Insulated

    Removing End of Brush Retaining Coil Spring
    Removing End of Brush Retaining Coil Spring

    New Brushes Soldered To Metal Tabs of Brush Holder
    New Brushes Soldered To Metal Tabs of Brush Holder

    Brush Wire Orientation in Holder
    Brush Wire Orientation in Holder
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  11. #26
    Registered User Rinty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brook.reams View Post
    As I have learned from Bob Fleischer's material about these boards...
    There is much interesting reading on Boxer electrical systems.....
    Rinty

  12. #27
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Replace Front Fork Seals, Add Slider Dust Covers

    When I bought the bike, the forks had both rubber fork gaiters and torn rubber fairing boots. But, I can't turn the forks lock-to-lock as the gaiters interfere with the fairing boots. I think this is dangerous so I'm going to remove the gaiters and the fairing boots and install the black rubber cups on the fork sliders. I will wait for when I do the complete tear down of the bike to replace the fairing boots. I also replace the fork seals since I have to do all the work needed to get to them and I don't know there condition.

    You can read about how I did that work here:


    The fork oil was about the color of the Mississippi river and there was a bunch of it captured by the fork gaiters, so it was well past time to replace the seals and add fresh fork oil.

    Fork Seals Leaking Fork Fluid
    Fork Seals Leaking Fork Fluid

    I decided to leave installation of the fairing boots for when I rebuild the bike. They are very difficult to attach to the fairing holes with the fork tubes installed. I think this will go a lot easier when I have the front fairing panel off the bike and can get clear access to mount the rubber boots.

    Old Fork Tube Cup
    Old Fairing Fork Boot

    Bottom of Fork Tube Cup
    New Fairing Fork Boot I'll Install Later

    I had a very difficult time removing the fork top nuts. Someone likely used an air impact wrench to put them in. I had to get an 800 Ft-Lb wrench to break them loose. Why do people do this stuff !!!!!

    Impact Driver (800 Ft-Ibs) Needed To Remove Top Bolts
    When It's Stuck, Get a Bigger Hammer :-)

    I installed the black rubber dust seal caps with the felt dust wiper on the inside. I learned you have to keep pushing the felt and packing it into the groove until the diagonal cut ends meet. That way it keeps itself tight against the fork tube. And DON'T OIL IT. That just traps grit and sand in the felt wiper.

    Fitting Felt Wiper Into Fork Slider Boot
    Fitting Felt Wiper Into Fork Slider Boot

    Felt Wiper Installed in Fork Slider Boot
    Felt Wiper Installed in Fork Slider Boot

    I'm waiting on repairs to the odometer, which in my attempt to repair, I managed to damage. :-( Sometimes that happens and it's time to have an expert clean up after me.

    Best.
    Brook Reams
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  13. #28
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    1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

    I'm now riding my 3rd '83 R100RS. Best bike ever as far as I can tell and I've ridden a lot of different models. My first one had over 190K on it when it died of blunt force trauma (i.e. an accident). Just picked up a fully rebuilt one three months ago. The previous owner, a BMW tech, did a full restoration 10 years ago and then hardly ever rode it. I'm now going to ride the crap out of the thing.

    I look forward to reading your journal. Thanks for sharing!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #29
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    Cool Bike Tony

    Tony,

    As I've been riding this one, it's growing on me. I wanted to put some miles on it before I start the rebuild tear down. Right now, it's my daily rider. It has the nice torque curve of the R75/6 and R75/6, but just keeps on pulling without getting out of breath. Very fun.

    I like the paint on your's. I have to repaint mine, so I'll get another lesson in painting.

    Best.
    Brook.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  15. #30
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Neat work, Brook! My '84 looks almost identical to yours… just had the heads serviced by Ted Porter last year (who did excellent work and I highly recommend for such service). Maybe when you're done practicing on yours, I can send you mine to finish the restoration…

    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

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