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1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Diagnose and Repair Failed Neutral Switch

Folks,

There have been some recent notes about the neutral switches and the starting system in the micapeak Airheads forum. It just so happens, I had to work on mine for this project. So, I wrote up the work I did:

This write-up makes use of some short videos to show what I do. I'm experimenting with how to use video clips to explain things better than just pictures and text can.

There is a longer video at the beginning in which I explain how I use the Haynes wiring diagram and Bob Fleischer's material to figure out how the neutral and clutch switches work in the starter switch circuit. In the past, I've heard fellow Airheads tell me electricity is confusing and a mystery. So I thought maybe showing how I try and figure out how components work from the wiring diagram when I have a problem may be of some value. Here is a direct link to that video.


Here are some pictures from the write-up.

<a title="Neutral Light Not Lit by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19125709449"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3685/19125709449_7a434630ed_z.jpg" alt="Neutral Light Not Lit" width="640" height="360" /></a>
Neutral Light Not Lit

<a title="Printed Circuit Contacts for Neutral Switch by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19170300938"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/457/19170300938_04720f5959_z.jpg" alt="Printed Circuit Contacts for Neutral Switch" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Printed Circuit Contacts for Neutral Switch

<a title="Neutral Bulb Pins on Printed Circuit by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19170301458"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/309/19170301458_60c054cfc7_z.jpg" alt="Neutral Bulb Pins on Printed Circuit" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Neutral Bulb Pins on Printed Circuit

<a title="Neutral Switch with Grunge by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19124209670"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/375/19124209670_188bbb52f0_z.jpg" alt="Neutral Switch with Grunge" width="640" height="360" /></a>
Neutral Switch with Grunge

<a title="Popping Out Center Engine Mount Spacer by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19335344685"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/392/19335344685_9c5b6811f6_z.jpg" alt="Prying Out Center Engine Mount Spacer" width="640" height="360" /></a>
Prying Out Center Engine Mount Spacer

<a title="Old Switch with Wires by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19147699920"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/464/19147699920_3eb8f41a8b_z.jpg" alt="Remove Wires From Old Switch" width="640" height="360" /></a>
Remove Wires From Old Switch

<a title="New Neutral Switch and New Washer by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19149202809"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/360/19149202809_87f582e424_z.jpg" alt="New Neutral Switch and New Washer/Spacer" width="640" height="480" /></a>
New Neutral Switch and New Washer/Spacer

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19305827422" title="Neutral Light Works by Brook Reams, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/405/19305827422_df2bfa22dc_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Neutral Light Works"></a>

Best.
Brook Reams

Arvada, Colorado
 
1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Check Diode Board, Replace Rubber Mounts

Folks,

The battery did not seem to be getting charged when the headlight was turned on, so one thing to check is if I have a bad diode. While I'm doing that, I checked to see if I have the original rubber diode board mounts. I did, so I replaced them with metal mounts. Adding the metal mounts will improve the grounding. I can clean up the alternator and the diode board wiring connectors which will improve charging performance. I also decided to put in a new battery and replace the alternator brushes. I'll write-up the brush replacement later.

Here is the write-up on this work.

Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.

<a title="Diode Board" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19481508245/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/264/19481508245_1ea4fcfc7f_z.jpg" alt="Diode Board-Left Alternator Center Tap Wire, Right Battery (+) Wire" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Diode Board-Left Alternator Center Tap Wire, Right Battery (+) Wire

<a title="Rubber Diode Board Mounts :-()" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/18859033214/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/415/18859033214_0794f53c6c_z.jpg" alt="Rubber Diode Board Mounts :-(" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Rubber Diode Board Mounts :-(

<a title="Right Side Diode Board Mounts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19485850871/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3689/19485850871_157819c686_z.jpg" alt="Right Side Diode Board Mount Nuts-Note Solenoid Wires Removed & Oil Breather Hose Clamp Moved" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Right Side Diode Board Mount Nuts-Note Solenoid Wires Removed & Oil Breather Hose Clamp Moved

<a title="Rubber Mounts-One Broken" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19455468766/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/273/19455468766_168edde576_z.jpg" alt="Rubber Mounts-One Broken" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Rubber Mounts-One Broken

<a title="Location of Large and Small Diodes" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19350922978/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/287/19350922978_e44467fa60_z.jpg" alt="Location of Large and Small Diodes" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Location of Large and Small Diodes

<a title="Solid Diode Board Mount Kit" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/18913692553/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/304/18913692553_881944e0f2_z.jpg" alt="Solid Diode Board Mount Kit From Euro Motoelectrics" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Solid Diode Board Mount Kit From Euro Motoelectrics

<a title="RTV Silicone Repair to Cracked Insulation" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/18913691873/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/277/18913691873_ff8506db33_z.jpg" alt="RTV Silicone Repair to Cracked Insulation" width="640" height="480" /></a>
RTV Silicone Repair to Cracked Insulation
 
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Adding the metal mounts will improve the grounding.

When I had my '82 RS, I had a y shaped wire piece installed, at the board, to improve the grounding. It might have been a BMW upgrade.

My tech, Dave Anderson, of Anderwerks, spent quite a bit of time detailing the electricals on that bike, and I never had a lick of trouble with them in the 15 years I owned it.
 
When I had my '82 RS, I had a y shaped wire piece installed, at the board, to improve the grounding. It might have been a BMW upgrade.

My tech, Dave Anderson, of Anderwerks, spent quite a bit of time detailing the electricals on that bike, and I never had a lick of trouble with them in the 15 years I owned it.

Rinty,

As I have learned from Bob Fleischer's material about these boards, there were a couple of service notices that included adding grounding wires to ensure good grounds. The combination of painted metal surfaces on the timing chest cover and the rubber diode board mounts could lead to random and/or failing ground connections.

Best.
Brook Reams
 
1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Replace Alternator Brushes

Folks,

I've been tracking down the cause for low charging voltage on this bike. Previously I checked the big diodes in the diode board and replaced the rubber mounts with metal ones. The diodes were fine. So the next step is replacing the alternator brushes and cleaning up the alternator contacts. I now get a steady 14.5 volts from the alternator as the RPM picks up from idle.

I wrote-up what I did and you can find that content here:

Here a a couple of pictures from the write-up

<a title="Alternator with Wiring" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19481507715/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/424/19481507715_087ac3e3bd_z.jpg" alt="Alternator with Wiring" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Alternator with Wiring

]<a title="Alternator Output Wires (U, V, W)" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19538819681/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3785/19538819681_8ebf3686dd_z.jpg" alt="Alternator Output Wires (U, V, W)" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Alternator Output Wires (U, V, W)

<a title="Alternator Stator Assembly" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19534562995/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/553/19534562995_6a418120b2_z.jpg" alt="Alternator Stator Assembly" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Alternator Stator Assembly

<a title="(DF) Brush Terminal is Insulated" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19348061419/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3691/19348061419_6ca395b184_z.jpg" alt="(DF) Brush Terminal is Insulated" width="640" height="480" /></a>
(DF) Brush Terminal is Insulated

<a title="Removing Brush Retaining Spring" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19538821701/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/19538821701_9c88862c31_z.jpg" alt="Removing End of Brush Retaining Coil Spring" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Removing End of Brush Retaining Coil Spring

<a title="New Brushes Soldered To Holder" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19348060749/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/513/19348060749_85cc5f4ac8_z.jpg" alt="New Brushes Soldered To Metal Tabs of Brush Holder" width="640" height="480" /></a>
New Brushes Soldered To Metal Tabs of Brush Holder

<a title="Brush Wire Orientation in Holder" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/18912039174/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/435/18912039174_ed306e1192_z.jpg" alt="Brush Wire Orientation in Holder" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Brush Wire Orientation in Holder
 
1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Replace Front Fork Seals, Add Slider Dust Covers

When I bought the bike, the forks had both rubber fork gaiters and torn rubber fairing boots. But, I can't turn the forks lock-to-lock as the gaiters interfere with the fairing boots. I think this is dangerous so I'm going to remove the gaiters and the fairing boots and install the black rubber cups on the fork sliders. I will wait for when I do the complete tear down of the bike to replace the fairing boots. I also replace the fork seals since I have to do all the work needed to get to them and I don't know there condition.

You can read about how I did that work here:

The fork oil was about the color of the Mississippi river and there was a bunch of it captured by the fork gaiters, so it was well past time to replace the seals and add fresh fork oil.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/17840504761/in/album-72157652666733248/" title="Fork Seals Leaking Fork Fluid"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7755/17840504761_c0c70935de_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Fork Seals Leaking Fork Fluid"></a>
Fork Seals Leaking Fork Fluid

I decided to leave installation of the fairing boots for when I rebuild the bike. They are very difficult to attach to the fairing holes with the fork tubes installed. I think this will go a lot easier when I have the front fairing panel off the bike and can get clear access to mount the rubber boots.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/17876475045/in/album-72157652666733248/" title="Old Fork Tube Cup"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7732/17876475045_c6100eb0dd_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Old Fork Tube Cup"></a>
Old Fairing Fork Boot

<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/17690220179/in/album-72157652666733248/" title="Bottom of Fork Tube Cup"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8868/17690220179_cf3b4d3100_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Bottom of Fork Tube Cup"></a>
New Fairing Fork Boot I'll Install Later

I had a very difficult time removing the fork top nuts. Someone likely used an air impact wrench to put them in. I had to get an 800 Ft-Lb wrench to break them loose. Why do people do this stuff !!!!!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/17876482155/in/album-72157652666733248/" title="Impact Driver (800 Ft-Ibs) Needed To Remove Top Bolts"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5452/17876482155_28cb8b51d1_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Impact Driver (800 Ft-Ibs) Needed To Remove Top Bolts"></a>
When It's Stuck, Get a Bigger Hammer :)

I installed the black rubber dust seal caps with the felt dust wiper on the inside. I learned you have to keep pushing the felt and packing it into the groove until the diagonal cut ends meet. That way it keeps itself tight against the fork tube. And DON'T OIL IT. That just traps grit and sand in the felt wiper.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19149700959/in/album-72157652666733248/" title="Fitting Felt Wiper Into Fork Slider Boot"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/383/19149700959_106d20f77f_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Fitting Felt Wiper Into Fork Slider Boot"></a>
Fitting Felt Wiper Into Fork Slider Boot

<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19148205070/in/album-72157652666733248/" title="Felt Wiper Installed in Fork Slider Boot"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/421/19148205070_89d3a9fc2c_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Felt Wiper Installed in Fork Slider Boot"></a>
Felt Wiper Installed in Fork Slider Boot

I'm waiting on repairs to the odometer, which in my attempt to repair, I managed to damage. :-( Sometimes that happens and it's time to have an expert clean up after me.

Best.
Brook Reams
 
I'm now riding my 3rd '83 R100RS. Best bike ever as far as I can tell and I've ridden a lot of different models. My first one had over 190K on it when it died of blunt force trauma (i.e. an accident). Just picked up a fully rebuilt one three months ago. The previous owner, a BMW tech, did a full restoration 10 years ago and then hardly ever rode it. I'm now going to ride the crap out of the thing.

I look forward to reading your journal. Thanks for sharing!
 

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    Tony on his bike.jpg
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Cool Bike Tony

Tony,

As I've been riding this one, it's growing on me. I wanted to put some miles on it before I start the rebuild tear down. Right now, it's my daily rider. It has the nice torque curve of the R75/6 and R75/6, but just keeps on pulling without getting out of breath. Very fun.

I like the paint on your's. I have to repaint mine, so I'll get another lesson in painting.

Best.
Brook.
 
Neat work, Brook! My '84 looks almost identical to yours… just had the heads serviced by Ted Porter last year (who did excellent work and I highly recommend for such service). Maybe when you're done practicing on yours, I can send you mine to finish the restoration… :laugh

:beer
 
Neat work, Brook! My '84 looks almost identical to yours… just had the heads serviced by Ted Porter last year (who did excellent work and I highly recommend for such service). Maybe when you're done practicing on yours, I can send you mine to finish the restoration… :laugh

:beer

Hi Jim,

When I pull the heads, I'm hoping they have already been serviced as this bike has 83,000+ miles. The valve seats in 1983 didn't last much more than 50,000 before a head rebuild was needed. So, I'm cautiously optimistic that these heads have been rebuilt and when I check them, they are in good shape. Time will tell. In the past, I've had mine done by Randy Long who is the go-to-guy for many shops who offer head rebuild services; they send them on to Randy who has built up a loyal following over the years.

From your signature block, it sounds like you split time between Houston, TX and Portland, OR so metropolitan Denver where I live is in between. I'm not opposed to completing a rebuild/restore if you would like. I get in less trouble when I'm working in the shop :)

Best.
Brook.
 
Bing's stuff.

I look forward to following your progress. Right off, I have two related questions.

1) What kind of windscreen is on the bike? It looks about half the size of the one on my R80RT. It looks like there would be correspondingly less wind resistance.

2) Regarding the carburetor rebuild, I saw that Bing sells an instructional DVD along with its rebuild kits. Does anyone think it's any good / worth the money?

My experience with Bing International is that they are a top gun outfit. I had them rebuild 2 sets of carbs for me at different times. The price was fair and once dialed in I never had a problem with either set. Regardless of whether you rebuild yourself or have them rebuilt, go with the new plastic floats. The bike itself is a great machine to begin with and done right a great mile eater.

Best,

Will
 
Hi Jim,

When I pull the heads, I'm hoping they have already been serviced as this bike has 83,000+ miles. The valve seats in 1983 didn't last much more than 50,000 before a head rebuild was needed. So, I'm cautiously optimistic that these heads have been rebuilt and when I check them, they are in good shape. Time will tell. In the past, I've had mine done by Randy Long who is the go-to-guy for many shops who offer head rebuild services; they send them on to Randy who has built up a loyal following over the years.

From your signature block, it sounds like you split time between Houston, TX and Portland, OR so metropolitan Denver where I live is in between. I'm not opposed to completing a rebuild/restore if you would like. I get in less trouble when I'm working in the shop :)

Best.
Brook.

Hi Brook,
My RS had almost exactly 83K when I pulled it apart- the heads had never been off of it according to the PO. The valves had receded substantively (see pic), but thankfully they hadn't broken! Ted did the full workup (valves, seats, guides, etc), so it should outlast me at this point… :thumb

I'm still trying to determine if I'm diggin' the RS experience before I tear into it fully. It's actually in pretty good shape and complete, but could use paint (it's the same color blue as yours, coincidentally) and a few small details attended to. But I may just take you up on that one summer on my way to Oregon!
:beer
 

Attachments

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Hi Brook,
My RS had almost exactly 83K when I pulled it apart- the heads had never been off of it according to the PO. The valves had receded substantively (see pic), but thankfully they hadn't broken! Ted did the full workup (valves, seats, guides, etc), so it should outlast me at this point… :thumb

I'm still trying to determine if I'm diggin' the RS experience before I tear into it fully. It's actually in pretty good shape and complete, but could use paint (it's the same color blue as yours, coincidentally) and a few small details attended to. But I may just take you up on that one summer on my way to Oregon!
:beer

Jim,

Oh my, that is indeed a valve in need of retirement. !!!

Mine is certainly in need of paint work as there are a lot of stone chips on the fairing and front fender and the gas tank paint has eroded around the gas cap and is missing entirely where the rear of the tank touches the seat.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/sets/72157650334262247

So far, I've enjoyed the 200 miles I've put on the bike. The riding position hasn't been hard on my wrists or back. I'm planning on riding it on a 400 mile weekend camp out in August so I'll get a chance to put more hours in the saddle and see how I feel after that.

Feel free to connect with me on one of your migrations and we can get together.

Best.
Brook.
 
Jim,

Mine is certainly in need of paint work...I'll get a chance to put more hours in the saddle and see how I feel after that.

I had a full mechanical restoration done on my former bike, but decided to leave the cosmetics the way they were, as it was my only bike, I did a lot of touring on it, and didn't want to worry about the paint.

DSCN0087-XL.jpg


Funny thing was, when my tech pulled the heads, one of the valves was on the verge of being swallowed up, too.
 
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<a title="Solid Diode Board Mount Kit" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/18913692553/in/album-72157654880664060/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/304/18913692553_881944e0f2_z.jpg" alt="Solid Diode Board Mount Kit From Euro Motoelectrics" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Solid Diode Board Mount Kit From Euro Motoelectrics

I see in this month's News that Matt Parkhouse likes using these too.
 
Yep, the 2 things that kill a diode board is bad or no grounding and heat. I see Brook has the well ventilated front fairing cover in front of the engine block.
 
1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal: Diagnose Intermittent Low Oil Pressure Light

I've written about the journey of how I isolated problems in the oil system of this bike when my low oil pressure light came on. You can read about it here:

I diagnosed and fixed a couple problems in the engine oil system. But I'm not absolutely certain I have found the problem causing the low oil pressure light to come on. I've ruled out failures in the engine oil system and am convinced the oil pump is working properly, the engine oil passages are not blocked, the oil seals are not leaking, the oil pickup and screen are okay and the oil level is correct.

The electrical circuit is now the most likely reason for the itermittent low oil pressure light coming on. The last thing I replaced is the oil pressure sender switch even though when I originally tested it, it worked. But, it's the next most likely component to have a problem due to its mechanical action. Here's a short video of the insides of that switch.

What's Inside the Oil Pressure Sender -->
Until I ride a couple hundred miles, I won't draw a final conclusion about having fixing the problem.

Here are a couple pictures from the write-up. I also took a couple videos of test procedures and the inside of the oil pressure sender switch.

<a title="Distance to Measure From Edge of Filter Can to Edge of Engine Boss" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19592623164/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/431/19592623164_9a11a1f9d4_z.jpg" alt="Distance to Measure From Edge of Filter Can to Top of Engine Block" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Distance to Measure From Edge of Filter Can to Top of Engine Block

<a title="Vernier Caliper Reading 3.82 mm" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/19594301663/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3695/19594301663_7aec57f798_z.jpg" alt="Vernier Caliper Reading 3.82 mm Canister Depth" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Vernier Caliper Reading 3.82 mm Canister Depth=

<a title="Cutting Filter Paper Cylinder" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/20207059912/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/508/20207059912_82160dbeca_z.jpg" alt="Cutting Filter Paper Cylinder From Metal End" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Cutting Filter Paper Cylinder From Metal End

<a title="Bright Metal Particles" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/20028654229/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/520/20028654229_8edfcf64c3_z.jpg" alt="Bright Metal Particles" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Bright Metal Particles

<a title="High Pressure Relief Ball Valve Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/20248267686/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/546/20248267686_f4923a6095_z.jpg" alt="High Pressure By-pass Valve Parts-Mangled and Bent" width="640" height="480" /></a>
High Pressure By-pass Valve Parts-Mangled and Bent

<a title="Fishing Ball Bearing Into Hole" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/20552068366/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5834/20552068366_01757067dd_z.jpg" alt="Fishing Ball Bearing Into Hole" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Fishing Ball Bearing Into Hole

<a title="White ($2,000 O-ring) Installed in Cover" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/20578288085/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5705/20578288085_42d5ee601b_z.jpg" alt="White ($2,000 O-ring) Installed in Filter Cover" width="640" height="480" /></a>
White ($2,000 O-ring) Installed in Filter Cover

<a title="Attaching Oil Test Gauge to Instrument Cluster" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/20585660069/in/album-72157656273341428/"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5785/20585660069_b6e5de52e6_z.jpg" alt="Attaching Oil Test Gauge to Instrument Cluster" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Attaching Oil Test Gauge to Instrument Cluster

Best.
Brook Reams
 
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