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1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

1983 R100RS Install Flywheel

Folks,

I show how I install the flywheel, aka, "clutch carrier". I also show how I prepare the flywheel before installation, including

  • Cleaning the guide ring,
  • Polishing out the grooves in the guide ring created by the rear main seal,
  • Dressing the teeth on the flywheel to remove ridges created by the starter motor gear engaging with them,
  • Replacing the large o-ring in the guide ring,
  • Cleaning the crankshaft bolt holes and bolts, and,
  • How to center the flywheel on the bolts so the ignition timing is correct.

<a title="Bath Time" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48906224528/in/album-72157711348300107/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48906224528_ee7cf50774_c.jpg" alt="Bath Time For the Bell Housing and Flywheel with Engine Degreaser" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Bath Time For the Bell Housing and Flywheel (in Pan at Right) with Engine Degreaser

[<a title="Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49341475998/in/album-72157711443881342/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49341475998_aff1f04f6d_c.jpg" alt="Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear

<a title="Flywheel Hub-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48939563717/in/album-72157711443881342/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939563717_2939498818_c.jpg" alt="Flywheel Guide Ring-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Flywheel Guide Ring-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal

<a title="Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48939562807/in/album-72157711443881342/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939562807_df7f81038b_c.jpg" alt="Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out :)" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out :)

<a title="Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49341691198/in/album-72157711443881342/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49341691198_a3a0d387fa_c.jpg" alt="Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts

You can read about how I do this work here:

I also shot a short video that summarizes the work.


VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Prepare and Install Flywheel

I hope this is helpful to anyone planning to do this work.
 
1983 R100RS Install New Clutch

Folks,

After I installed the flywheel, I'm ready to install the clutch. You can see how I install the flywheel here:

And, you can see how I removed the clutch here.

I decided to install all new clutch parts rather than have them rebuilt by Southland Clutch. Here is a write-up showing how I install the clutch.

And here is a summary video showing highlights of the installation procedure.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install New Clutch

The 1981+ model year clutch is a different design than was used on the earlier model years. You can see how to install the earlier style clutch here.

21 BMW 1973 R75/5 Install New Clutch
21 BMW 1977 R100RS Remove, Refurbish, Install Clutch

Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.

<a title="Clutch Centering Tool" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49364397678/in/album-72157712595455443/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49364397678_164f9f397b_c.jpg" alt="Clutch Centering Tool for 1981+ Clutches" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Clutch Centering Tool for 1981+ Clutches

<a title="Clutch Assembly Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49369411721/in/album-72157712595455443/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49369411721_6fc84955ef_c.jpg" alt="Clutch Assembly Parts" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Clutch Assembly Parts

<a title="New Clutch Bolts with Washers" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49358481361/in/album-72157712595455443/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49358481361_9742520cf8_c.jpg" alt="New Clutch Bolts with Washers" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Clutch Bolts with Washers

<a title="Verifing Clutch Plate Sleeve Is On Front Side of Clutch Front Cover" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49365200902/in/album-72157712595455443/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49365200902_af5a70ec54_c.jpg" alt="Verifying Clutch Plate Sleeve Is On Front Side of Clutch Front Cover" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Verifying The Sleeve Side Of The Clutch Plate Is On The Transmission Side of The Clutch Housing Cover

<a title="Clutch Centering Tool Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49364860506/in/album-72157712595455443/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49364860506_8ed4e572b4_c.jpg" alt="Clutch Centering Tool Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Clutch Centering Tool Installed

<a title="Clutch Center Tool Removed - Clutch Is Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49365119351/in/album-72157712595455443/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49365119351_4d0682a944_c.jpg" alt="Clutch Center Tool Removed - Clutch Is Installed" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Clutch Centering Tool Removed - Clutch Is Installed
 
1983 R100RS Install Crankshaft Sprocket, Nose Bearing, Timing Chain, Timing Cover

Folks,

I completed installing a new crankshaft timing sprocket, nose bearing, timing chain, chain tensioner and rubbing block, front main seal and the inner timing cover. So, a lot of progress made.

<a title="New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49382367346/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49382367346_b564af80f4_c.jpg" alt="New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain

<a title="Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49381903803/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49381903803_5e086fb94b_c.jpg" alt="Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts

<a title="New Front Main Seal" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49392052788/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49392052788_d222be67b5_c.jpg" alt="New Front Main Seal" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Front Main Seal

<a title="Untitled" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49400705042/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49400705042_5e5e860c67_c.jpg" alt="Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)

<a title="Start Point" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49405065108/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49405065108_04ccca18e3_c.jpg" alt="Starting Point" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Starting Point

<a title="Timing Chain Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49392408091/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49392408091_bb9c079a11_c.jpg" alt="Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed

<a title="Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49392051508/in/album-72157712661170898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49392051508_15c90f129c_c.jpg" alt="Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed

This year engine uses the single row timing chain and comes with a master link which is very convenient. The older dual-row chains were continuous and I had to cut the chain to remove it which was a bit of a hassle.

You can read about how I do this work here:

I shot three short videos that summarize what I documented in the write-up.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Crankshaft Sprocket and Nose Bearing
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Timing Chain
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Inner Timing Cover

If you have the older engine with dual-row timing chain, here are links to how I did the same work with the dual row chain. The procedure is pretty much the same. That said, the better method for removing the continuous dual-row chain is to use bolt cutters, not grind off two pins on a link, as that creates a lot of shrapnel that you have to clean up.

 
Last edited:
Brook
Great job on these documentation write up's
When you put that Master link on that timing chain that raised a red flag in my mind.
Can you get a chain riveting tool in there? Is there not enough room?
Those master links have a history of coming off.
 
Brook
Great job on these documentation write up's
When you put that Master link on that timing chain that raised a red flag in my mind.
Can you get a chain riveting tool in there? Is there not enough room?
Those master links have a history of coming off.

Hi nickrides,

Well, the master link is original to this style chain. BMW discontinued the continuous chain when they made the chain a single row chain. I've heard no stories of that link going missing, so I do not believe it's a "weak link" (pun intended) in the design. :)

Best.
Brook.
 
1983 R100RS Install Euro MotoElectrics (EME) Type III 400 Watt Charging System

I'm upgrading the charging system from the stock Bosch 240 watt alternator to the <a href="https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnDuraLast-III-Charging-System-p/edl3-altkit107.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Euro MotoElectrics (EME) 400 watt, Type III charging system</a>. This alternator uses the same design as the Bosch one with an electromagnetic rotor with brushes.

<a title="EME Type III 400 Watt Kit Components" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49417052058/in/album-72157712762380383/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49417052058_b17b33d9e9_c.jpg" alt="EME Type III 400 Watt Kit Components" width="800" height="600" /></a>
EME Type III 400 Watt Kit Components

I also decided to replace the stator cover, part# <a href="https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-statfram107plus.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">BOALT-StatFram107Plus</a> and also replaced the battery (+) cable and the voltage regulator sub-harness. EME provides two cable kits: one has the battery (+) and (-) cables, part# <a href="https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-R-Airhead-BCK-475216-p/bck-475216.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">BCK-475216</a> and the other has the voltage regulator and the charging system wires that connect to the diode board, part# <a href="https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-har80.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">BOALT-HAR80</a>. The kit has some of the same wires included in the Type III charging system kit and is for the R80. But the voltage regulator sub-harness is the same as the one used on the R100 and the R80 kit is less expensive than the R100 kit as it has fewer wires.

<a title="EME 107 mm Complete Stator Housing" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49417527461/in/album-72157712762380383/" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49417527461_3da42f4b52_c.jpg" alt="EME 107 mm Complete Stator Housing" width="800" height="600" /></a>
EME 107 mm Complete Stator Housing

<a title="EME Battery (+) Cable" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49417527306/in/album-72157712762380383/" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49417527306_d9f5723fb7_c.jpg" alt="EME Battery (+) Cable" width="800" height="600" /></a>
EME Battery (+) Cable

<a title="EMC BOALT-HAR80 Wiring Kit" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49427493562/in/album-72157712762380383/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49427493562_17c5e99395_c.jpg" alt="EMC BOALT-HAR80 Wiring Kit" width="800" height="600" /></a>
EMC BOALT-HAR80 Wiring Kit

Here is what the completed installation looks like.

<a title="Stator "Y" Cable Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49427492012/in/album-72157712762380383/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49427492012_013808955a_c.jpg" alt="Charging System Installed On Inner Timing Cover" width="800" height="600" /></a>
EME 400 Watt Charging System Installed On Inner Timing Cover

I documented the procedure here.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/12-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-eme-400-watt-charging-system/">12 BMW 1983 R100RS Install EME 400 Watt Charging System</a></li>
</ul>
I also made a video summarizing the procedure and posted it to my YouTube channel.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Euro MotoElectrics 400 Watt Charging System
 
Last edited:
Nice!

Pardon my ignorance Brooke, but did you triple ground the diode board? That was a mod that I had done to my '82 RS (at least, I think it was the diode board):scratch.
 
Nice!

Pardon my ignorance Brook, but did you triple ground the diode board? That was a mod that I had done to my '82 RS (at least, I think it was the diode board):scratch.

Hi Rinty,

In a word, NO.

But, you can see what I did do below.

<a title="Ground Wire Octopus Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49422752067/in/album-72157712762380383/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49422752067_410f2e6b55_c.jpg" alt="Ground Wire Octopus Installed and 2 Stock BMW Ground Wires Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Ground Wire Octopus Installed and 2 Stock BMW Ground Wires Installed

I think this adds new meaning to "belt and suspenders" and maybe more like "belt, suspenders and velcro" :dance :thumb

Best.
Brook.
 
You really do a great job documenting your upgrades and rebuilds. You’re gonna regret soldering the brushes into place. The brushes with eyelet terminals are a few minutes to replace when the brushes wear down. Great write up, photos, and videos Brook. Thanks.
 
You really do a great job documenting your upgrades and rebuilds. You’re gonna regret soldering the brushes into place. The brushes with eyelet terminals are a few minutes to replace when the brushes wear down. Great write up, photos, and videos Brook. Thanks.

Hi Michael,

Well, I didn't solder the brushes as they are the ring terminal kind and come assembled on the new stator cover. On an earlier build for the 1977 RS, I wasn't aware of these and did solder them.

Best.
Brook.
 
It is looking good Brook, fun watching the progress. St.

Thanks Steve. If I don't look at the stack of uninstalled parts, I too think I'm getting there. :banghead The big turning point for me is when I install the engine into the frame. For some reason, that milestone always makes me feel like I'm on the home stretch. :dance

Best.
Brook.
 
musings

Hey Brook, the last bike I restored was fine until I got to the wiring harnesses. It was then I drew a big blank.

Took awhile to figure out how things were routed. Went from a bundle of snakes to a proper job. LOL. St.
 
Hi Rinty,



But, you can see what I did do below...I think this adds new meaning to "belt and suspenders" and maybe more like "belt, suspenders and velcro" :dance :thumb

Pretty elegant, actually. And I see you dealt with the ground wires in your video.... :doh

That kit is so nice it makes me want to get another RS just so I can install one in it. :D I wonder where Rick gets all that stuff manufactured.

Do you think there's any risk that water might get in around the edges of that "two hole" grommet above the diode board?
 
Last edited:
Pretty elegant, actually. And I see you dealt with the ground wires in your video.... :doh

That kit is so nice it makes me want to get another RS just so I can install one in it. :D I wonder where Rick gets all that stuff manufactured.

Rinty, I think you are confusing Euro MotoElectrics, where I got this charging kit, operated by Norman Schawb, with Motorad Electrik, operated by Rick Jones. I believe Norman mentioned this is made in Germany.

Best.
Brook.
 
1983 R100RS Replace Oil Pan & Oil Suction Flange Gaskets, Sand Oil Pan Mating Surface

Folks,

It's time to work on the bottom of the engine.

<a title="Engine Block Mounted On Harbor Freight Motorcycle Stand" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49535817381/in/album-72157713110300131/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49535817381_315c9d75de_c.jpg" alt="Engine Block Securely Mounted On Harbor Freight Motorcycle Stand" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Engine Block Securely Mounted On Harbor Freight Motorcycle Stand

I replaced the oil pan and the oil pump suction flange gaskets.

<a title="New Gaskets-Green Is Oil Pump Suction Flange Gasket" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49535816331/in/album-72157713110300131/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49535816331_a0bf9551c8_c.jpg" alt="New Gaskets-Green Is Oil Pump Suction Flange Gasket" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Gaskets-Green Is Oil Pump Suction Flange Gasket

Along the way, I checked the oil pan to see if the mating surface was flat. It was not, so I sanded it and now it's flat. That should go a long way to ensure the new pan gasket does not leak.

<a title="Checking For Uneven Mating Surface On Oil Pan" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49535322053/in/album-72157713110300131/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49535322053_41723beaf3_c.jpg" alt="Checking For Uneven Mating Surface On Oil Pan" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Checking For Uneven Mating Surface On Oil Pan

You can read about how I did the work here:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-replace-oil-pan-oil-pump-suction-flange-gaskets-get-oil-pan-mating-surface-flat/">11 BMW 1983 R100RS Replace Oil Pan & Oil Pump Suction Flange Gaskets, Get Oil Pan Mating Surface Flat</a></li>
</ul>And here is a short video summarizing the procedure.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Replace Oil Pan & Oil Suction Flange Gaskets

The gaskets I need are included in the <a href="https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/gsk-enginekit422.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">EMC engine gasket kit</a>. I'm also going to replace the oil pan bolts and wave washers with new stainless steel hardware I got in the<a href="https://theboltguy.com/R100RT.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"> bolt kit from "The Bolt Guy" for the RT model </a>since I'm converting the RS to an RT, not that RT pan bolts are different from RS ones.

To prevent the threads of the stainless steel bolts from galling in the aluminum bolt holes in the engine block, I apply anti-seize. However, it's a lubricant. Since the recommended torque for the bolts is 6 FT-Lbs, which is quite low, if I torque the lubricated stainless steel bolts to that value, I stand a good chance of stripping the threads. So I reduce the torque by 20% to protect the threads.

For low torque like this, I always use my INCH pound torque wrench, NEVER a FOOT pound wrench which is too inaccurate at that low a torque setting.
 
1983 R100RS Install The Engine In The Frame

I always mark the installation of the engine back into the frame as a happy milestone. At last, entropy is being reduced along with the parts pile in the corner.

Here is a short video showing how I install the engine.


<strong>VIDEO: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>1983 BMW R100RS Install The Engine In The Frame</em></span></strong>

And some pictures.

<a title="Frame Back From Powder Coating" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49559566937/in/album-72157713181358318/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49559566937_47ecea3e81_c.jpg" alt="Frame Back From Powder Coating" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Frame Back From Powder Coating

<a title="Frame Rails Protected with Packing Wrap" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49559325896/in/album-72157713181358318/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49559325896_d617c75f1b_c.jpg" alt="Frame Rails Protected with Foam Packing Wrap" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Frame Rails Protected with Foam Packing Wrap

<a title="Engine Ready To Pickup And Install" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49559325851/in/album-72157713181358318/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49559325851_f59b43c5ce_c.jpg" alt="Engine Ready To Pickup And Install" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Engine Ready To Pickup And Install

<a title="Engine Slides Into Frame At The Rear" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49558831388/in/album-72157713181358318/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49558831388_87e77307c0_c.jpg" alt="Engine Slides Into Frame At The Rear" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Engine Slides Into Frame At The Rear

<a title="Front Engine Stud Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49559566397/in/album-72157713181358318/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49559566397_9961d41e59_c.jpg" alt="Front & Rear Engine Mounting Rods Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Front & Rear Engine Mounting Rods Installed

<a title="Engine & Frame Strapped to Motorcycle Stand" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49558830888/in/album-72157713181358318/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49558830888_be795ed7be_c.jpg" alt="Engine & Frame Strapped to Motorcycle Stand" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Engine & Frame Strapped to Motorcycle Stand
 
1983 R100RS Install Push Rod Tubes and Head Studs

I decided to install 9.5:1 high compression pistons used in the earlier RS engines instead of the original 8.2:1 pistons used in the 1983 RS motor. Due to variability in piston diameter and the tight clearance required with Nikasil cylinders, the advice of <a href="http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage</a> is to replate the cylinders with Nikasil and hone them so they provide the optimal clearance with the new pistons. So I sent the cylinders and new pistons to him to have this done, but before I did, I removed the push rod tubes and the head studs from the cylinders. You can see how I do that here:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-push-rod-tubes-studs/">11 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Push Rod Tubes & Cylinder Studs</a></li>
</ul>Now I am ready to install new stainless steel push rod tubes and the original head studs into the cylinders.

Here is a link to the write-up.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-push-rod-tubes-head-studs/">11 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Push Rod Tubes & Head Studs</a></li>
</ul>And a short video summarizing the procedure.
<strong>VIDEO: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>1983 BMW R100RS Install Push Rod Tubes & Head Studs</em></span></strong>
 
1983 R100RS Install Connecting Rods and Cam Followers

I had the connecting rods inspected, reconditioned, and new wrist pin bushings installed by <a href="http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage</a>.

<a title="Connecting Rod Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49593998488/in/album-72157713285033943/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49593998488_2a8fd1794c_c.jpg" alt="Connecting Rod Parts" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Connecting Rod Parts

I did that since this engine has over 83,000 miles on it. As Tom said about the life of connecting rods:

<em>"Metal parts get deformed when they get traumatized by 270 TRILLION</em>
<em>combustion cycles (4500 RPM, 60 MPH, 100,000 miles= 270 and more zeroes</em>
<em>than I have left in my computer.) Just a lotta lotta little taps will make</em>
<em>metal flow. In the case of connecting rods, that becomes manifested in</em>
<em>misaligned and ovalled bearing bores. Wristpins rock, both radially as well</em>
<em>as axially, which deforms the small-end bushings. That stuff needs</em>
<em>attention on a high-mileage engine reconditioning."</em>

Here is how I install the reconditioned rods and the cam followers.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-connecting-rods-cam-followers/">11 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Connecting Rods & Cam Followers</a></li>
</ul>And here is a short video summarizing the procedure.


<strong>VIDEO: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>1983 R100RS Install Connecting Rods & Cam Followers</em></span></strong>
 
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