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1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

1983 R100RS Project: Remove Valves and Inspect

Folks,

I'm going to have the heads on this project dual-plugged. Before I sent them to Randy Long who does this work, and more, I did an inspection of the valves to see what I could learn. I documented this work here:

It includes this short video.


Randy does a lot of work on heads, valves and seats and he is who many shops send their heads to. Here is his contact information:

Randy Long
Long's Mechanical Services
74 Risbon Rd
Honey Brook, PA 19344-1754
(610) 286-5870

I hope this is helpful.

Best.
Brook Reams.
 
1983 R100RS Remove The Drive Shaft

I'm going to powder coat the swing arm so I need to remove the drive shaft. BMW used two different drive shaft designs on the airheads changing the design in the 1981 model year. This 1983 RS has the second design drive shaft.

<a title="Drive Shaft Removed From Swing Arm" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30147196513/in/album-72157674702984351/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/5557/30147196513_48a133cc31_c.jpg" alt="Pre-1981 Drive Shaft and Swing Arm" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Pre-1981 Drive Shaft Components and Swing Arm

<a title="Drive Shaft Tapered End with Coupling" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32706106381/in/album-72157674702984351/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/2515/32706106381_892fe3c611_c.jpg" alt="Pre-1981 Driveshaft With Tapered End That Shrink Fits Into Bell Coupling" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Pre-1981 Drive Shaft With Tapered End That Shrink Fits Into Bell Coupling

<a title="Drive Shaft Assembly Components" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140802727/in/album-72157709282661302/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140802727_2c75bab019_c.jpg" alt="Drive Shaft Assembly Components" width="800" height="600" /></a>
1981+ Drive Shaft Assembly Components

<a title="Drive Shaft Torsional Shock Absorption Assembly" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140737563/in/album-72157709282661302/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140737563_f0f98315cf_c.jpg" alt="1981+ Drive Shaft Torsional Shock Absorption Assembly" width="800" height="600" /></a>
1981+ Drive Shaft Torsional Shock Absorption Assembly

Cycle Works makes tools to remove the drive shaft. So they have two different tools.

Cycle Works Driveshaft Removal Tool 1955-1980

<a title="Cycle Works Drive Shaft Bell Housing Removal Tool" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/30746333886/in/album-72157674702984351/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/5532/30746333886_e0c4cb00d9_c.jpg" alt="Pre-1981 Cycle Works Drive Shaft Bell Housing Removal Tool" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Pre-1981 Cycle Works Drive Shaft Bell Housing Removal Tool

Here is a link to the description of this tool.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_54&produ cts_id=77&zenid=be885412f3041de2836e2eb42d011bfe" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cycle Works Driveshaft Coupling Puller, 1955-1980</a></li>
</ul>
CCycle Works Driveshaft Spring Compressor Tool 1981+

This the tool used to compress the drive shaft spring so I can remove the snap ring that secures large yoke with the bell coupling from the drive shaft.

<a title="Cycle Works Drive Shaft Removal Tool Components" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140710616/in/album-72157709282661302/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140710616_3c28f86483_c.jpg" alt="1981+ Cycle Works Drive Shaft Removal Tool Components" width="800" height="600" /></a>
1981+ Cycle Works Drive Shaft Removal Tool Components

Here is a link to the tool description.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_54&produ cts_id=79&zenid=be885412f3041de2836e2eb42d011bfe" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cycle Works Driveshaft Compressor - Post 1980</a></li>
</ul>
I documented how I did this work here:

And, I made a video showing assembly of the Cycle Works drive shaft spring compressor tool and how I used it to remove the drive shaft.

 
Any thoughts on having the swing arm braced, Brook?

Hi Rinty,

Well, I have looked at that. The question is "To what purpose?"

The purpose for this build is to be a two-up tour bike, so at the moment, I don't see a real benefit from doing that for the purpose I have in mind for the build.

If I was building a race bike for AHMRA, then I think I would brace it as the stress on the swing arm is much higher and the improvement in rigidity likely would improve cornering at speed.

Anyway, I "pretend" that I spend the budget based on the goals of the build, but I'm as prone as anyone to adding something unique "just because" :) Keep an eye out for the post about assembling the swing arm to see if bracing shows up. :dance
 
I had an RS for about 15 years. I found that the rear end would sashay around a bit with cornering at higher speeds, on certain road surfaces. The braced swing arm settled it down and it felt really planted. I also upgraded the springs front and rear, and upper triple tree.

But I hear you, and if I had another one I would leave it stock, appreciate it for what it is, and just use it as a day bike.

The cost of all the mods I had done were worth it to me, as I enjoyed the bike for many years.
 
I had an RS for about 15 years. I found that the rear end would sashay around a bit with cornering at higher speeds, on certain road surfaces. The braced swing arm settled it down and it felt really planted. I also upgraded the springs front and rear, and upper triple tree.

But I hear you, and if I had another one I would leave it stock, appreciate it for what it is, and just use it as a day bike.

The cost of all the mods I had done were worth it to me, as I enjoyed the bike for many years.

Rinty,

That's a good observation about the "before" and "after" of swing arm bracing. I do plan on installing Race Tech's cartridge emulators and springs on the front end as I have heard good reports about that upgrade. And I plan to install Toaster Tan's top brace which is easier to install on an RS/RT due to not needing to cut down the headlight ears since the RS/RT don't have them.

Thank you for the input on your experience with swing arm bracing. I appreciate it.

Best.
Brook.
 
IIRC Bob Fleischer (aka Snowbum) felt that the swingarm bracing was not necessarily worth the trouble and expense but that work on the front end paid more dividends. Changing the top plate was certainly at the top of his list and a fork brace, if a good one exists without introducing stiction, were two things that would help with handling. He has a section on stiction on this page:

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/frontforks.htm
 
Thank you for the input on your experience with swing arm bracing. I appreciate it.

Best.
Brook.

You're welcome.

I went through a lengthy modification process with mine, and I learned a lot from the experience.

Dave Anderson of Anderwerks, who built it, thought it was the best handling RS he had ever ridden.

I admire your technical skills in upgrading these elegant machines.
 
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1983 R100RS Remove Swing Arm Bearings

I'm going to powder coat the swing arm, and the bike has 83,000+ miles on it. So I am removing the swing arm bearings and will replace them.

BMW used two different style bearings on the airhead swing arm: an unsealed 30203 bearing that was changed part way through the 1981 model year (01/1981) to a sealed bearing, FAG 540619. Changes in the swing arm bearing assemble were made at the start of the 1981 model year (09/1980) when the pivot pin was shortened and the dust cap changed to accommodate the 30203 bearing with the shorter pivot pin. Then in January 1981, the sealed bearing was added with it's included dust cap.

<a title="Sealed Bearing Disassembled" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140805178/in/album-72157709282896853/" title="Sealed Bearing Disassembled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140805178_03f50b2cd4_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Sealed Bearing Disassembled"></a>
FAG Sealed Bearing Disassembled After Removal

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/8647587570/in/album-72157633156150169/" title="Swing Arm Bearing Parts-Top to Bottom, Inside to Outside"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/8244/8647587570_3d77c2ab8c_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Swing Arm Bearing Parts-Top to Bottom, Inside to Outside"></a>
Earlier 30203 Bearing Assembly - A Few More Pieces

In the past, I've removed the 30203 bearings using the tool from Cycle Works.

<a title="Cycle Works Bearing Puller Kit" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/8616664143/in/album-72157709282896853/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/8263/8616664143_8ffa4f09a8_c.jpg" alt="Cycle Works Bearing Puller Kit" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Cycle Works Bearing Puller Kit-Use with 30203 Unsealed Swing Arm Bearings

But I needed a blind bearing puller to remove the inner race from the outer race as it is captive in the sealed bearing design. I found a set of blind bearing pullers for less than $60.00.

This kit has a slide hammer and a set of puller legs when more force--that will be required for the outer race extraction--is needed. There are various size expanding sleeves that cover a wide range of bearing diameters, so I bought it.

<a title="Blind Bearing Puller Set" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140870722/in/album-72157709282896853/" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140870722_71958e7b71_b.jpg" alt="Less Than $60.00 Blind Bearing Puller Set" width="1024" height="768" /></a>
Less Than $60.00 Blind Bearing Puller Set-Use With Sealed Swing Arm Bearings

I made a collar so I could use the blind puller to remove the outer race from a large flat washer and a 1-1/2 conduit lock nut I found at my ACE Hardware that cost me about $7.00. I used it to remove the outer bearing race after I pulled the inner race out, and it worked nicely. So, if you have a set of blind bearing pullers, or you buy a set like I did, you can remove the outer race by making your own collar.

<a title="Puller Plate On Swing Arm Tube" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140805473/in/album-72157709282896853/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140805473_104b3bc439_c.jpg" alt="Washer Rests On Edge Of Tube That Holds The Bearing" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Collar Rests On Edge Of Tube That Holds The Bearing

<a title="Blind Bearing Puller Ready To Extract Outer Race" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48164146761/in/album-72157709282896853/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48164146761_e3f68bfcfe_c.jpg" alt="Blind Bearing Puller With Jaws Ready To Extract Outer Race" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Blind Bearing Puller With Jaws Ready To Extract Outer Race

<a title="Sealed Bearing Disassembled" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140805178/in/album-72157709282896853/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140805178_03f50b2cd4_c.jpg" alt="Sealed Bearing Disassembled" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Sealed Bearing Disassembled

Here is a link to the documentation I wrote about how I did this work.

I also made a short video and posted it to my YouTube channel.

 
1983 R100RS Repair Broken Side Cover Tabs on Sub-Frame

For some reason both tabs that help hold the left side cover on are broken off on the Sub-frame. I fabricated new ones out of some scrap steel lawn edging and had my son weld them on the sub-frame.

If you have to make this repair, here is how I made them.

Some pictures follow.

<a title="Original Brackets" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140897426/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140897426_334eb3073d_c.jpg" alt="Sub-Frame Leg With Original Brackets" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Right Sub-Frame Leg With Original Brackets

<a title="Brackets Broken Off" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140991542/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140991542_9070b06dd4_c.jpg" alt="Sub-Frame Leg With Both Brackets Broken Off" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Left Sub-Frame Leg With Both Brackets Broken Off

<a title="12 mm Socket For Round End Radius" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140901997/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140901997_264d628536_c.jpg" alt="12 mm Socket For Finishing Round End Radius" width="800" height="600" /></a>
12 mm Socket For Finishing Round End Radius

<a title="Drift in Vice To Round End of Bracket" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140835873/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140835873_eafa0ed3a9_c.jpg" alt="Use Drift in Vice To Form Radius At End of Bracket" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Use Drift in Vice To Form Radius At End of Bracket

<a title="Brackets Ready For Welding" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48140991452/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48140991452_1698525374_c.jpg" alt="Brackets Ready For Welding" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Brackets Ready For Welding

<a title="New Tabs-Just Like The Original" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48155003082/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48155003082_5257f35fb4_c.jpg" alt="New Tabs-Just Like The Original" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Tabs Look Just Like The Original

<a title="New Tabs-Just Like The Original" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48154923851/in/album-72157709282808922/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154923851_36d52833d9_c.jpg" alt="New Tabs-Just Like The Original" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Tabs Look Just Like The Original
 
1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Master Cylinders and Calipers

Folks,

Previously, I removed the brake calipers and master cylinders when I removed the brake system and you can see how to do that work here:

This bike has a front master cylinder that is integrated into the Magura throttle assembly and a rear Brembo master cylinder. All three calipers are Brembo F-08 series with dual 38 mm pistons. I disassembled both master cylinders and inspected them. I repainted and rebuilt the rear master cylinder using a Brembo rebuild kit. Unfortunately, I found the front Magura master cylinder bore and internals were badly rusted and pitted, so I had to replace the front master cylinder rather than rebuild it. Even though I didn't have to rebuild the front master cylinder, I show how you rebuild it and the rear master cylinder in this document.

I also put together two short videos showing the work I did on the front and the rear master cylinders, but I can't post mulitple videos, so here are links to them on my YouTube site.

I disassembled all three calipers, inspected them and found they were not corroded or pitted so I repainted and rebuilt them using a Brembo caliper rebuild kit. The same kit is used on all three calipers. You can see how I did that work here:

I also put together a video about how I rebuilt the calipers.


<em><span style="text-decoration: underline"><strong>1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers</strong></span></em>
 
1983 R100RS Remove Clutch, Flywheel, Rear Seal, Oil Pump

Folks,

I have been delinquent working on this project for a few months. I got distracted with preparations for riding out to the 40th anniversary rally for the R65LS-R80G/S and then, I was lazy when I got back.

For those who need to do this work, I documented how I did it in these write-ups. There is a link in each write-up to a short video summarizing the work.


When parts arrive, I'll get the back end of the engine buttoned up and, as is my affliction, I will write-up and film the corresponding documentation.
I hope this is helpful. :)

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48900553278/in/album-72157711344120108/" title="Clutch Assembly Uses Six Bolts at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48900553278_283d809cdb_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Clutch Assembly Uses Six Bolts at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Ready To Remove Clutch

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48900552303/in/album-72157711344120108/" title="Diaphragm Spring Fits In Hollow of Flywheel"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48900552303_4149601b57_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Diaphragm Spring Fits In Hollow of Flywheel"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Diaphragm Spring


<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48902779603/in/album-72157711348300107/" title="Removing Flywheel Bolts with Impact Wrench"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48902779603_e256a26e7d_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Removing Flywheel Bolts with Impact Wrench"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Remove Flywheel

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48945216036/in/album-72157711348300107/" title="Removing Seal with Cycle Works Jig After Removing (2) Flywheel Bolts"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48945216036_6c9034e67e_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Removing Seal with Cycle Works Jig After Removing (2) Flywheel Bolts"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Remove Rear Main Seal

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48970426277/in/album-72157711385267346/" title="Measure Outer Rotor End-Play"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48970426277_910e6a5f6f_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Measure Outer Rotor End-Play"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Oil Pump Measurements

Best.
Brook Reams.
 
Last edited:
1983 BMW R100RS Install Rear Main Seal, Oil Pump Cover O-ring & Flywheel

Folks,

I previously removed the clutch, flywheel and rear main seal so I can replace the crankshaft rear main seal, the flywheel o-ring and the oil pump cover o-ring. You can see how I did that work here:

The inside of the bell housing as well as the shelf under the transmission showed oil leaks, so one, or all, of these are the likely culprits.

<a title="Flywheel Bolts Coming Out" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48903301746/in/album-72157711348300107/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48903301746_d20c2e43de_c.jpg" alt="Grunge Inside the Bell Housing Suggests O-rings and/or Rear Main Seal Leaks" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Grunge Inside the Bell Housing Suggests O-rings and/or Rear Main Seal Leaks

<a title="Oil & Grudge Point to Oil Leaking From Somewhere" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48906749596/in/album-72157711348300107/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48906749596_89f124a350_c.jpg" alt="Oil & Grudge On The Shelf Under The Transmission" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Oil & Grudge On The Shelf Under The Transmission

When I opened up the oil pump to take measurements and make a visual inspection, I decided that I had to replace the oil pump due to a lot of wear and tear to the rotors inside the pump. You can see how I removed and measured the oil pump here:

<a title="Scratches On Lobe of Oil Pump Inner Rotor" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48916050853/in/album-72157711385267346/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48916050853_21f30bf835_c.jpg" alt="Scratches On Lobe of Oil Pump Inner Rotor" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Scratches On Lobe of Oil Pump Inner Rotor

<a title="Grooves on Face of Oil Pump Outer Rotor" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/48916785062/in/album-72157711385267346/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48916785062_354c15c87c_c.jpg" alt="Grooves on Face of Oil Pump Outer Rotor" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Grooves on Face of Oil Pump Outer Rotor

When I first got the bike, in debugging a low oil pressure light that came on, I discovered that the oil filter high pressure bypass valve was hanging by a thread. So, unfiltered oil was circulating, but I didn't know for how long. Based on the condition of the oil pump and the scores I found in the rod bearings, I think unfiltered oil circulated for while. Not what I wanted, but I'm glad I took a look at the pump.

You can read about how I did the work here:

And, you can see a short video that summarizes the work here:


Due to what I found with the oil pump, I'm making a detour on the project. I'm going to pull the crankshaft to inspect the main bearings. I suspect I won't like what I find there either, but it makes sense to take a look.
 
Last edited:
1983 R100RS Remove Diode Board, Alternator and Ignition Sensor (aka, The "Bean Can")

Folks,

I am going to replace the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket, crankshaft nose bearing, and the front main seal. I'm also going to pull the crankshaft to inspect the main bearings.

But first, I have to remove the electrical components and wiring inside the front engine cover that includes the diode board, alternator and ignition sensor, aka, the "bean can", aka, the "electronic points". I plan to upgrade the alternator and diode board to a 400 watt system. I also plan on opening the bean can to lube the advance mechanism and replace the Hall effect sensors.

Here is the before and after pictures.

<a title="Diode Board, Alternator, Ignition Sensor-Labeled" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49174161697/in/album-72157712051528583/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49174161697_26272e571e_c.jpg" alt="Diode Board, Alternator, Ignition Sensor Are Inside Front Engine Cover" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Diode Board, Alternator, Ignition Sensor Are Inside Front Engine Cover

<a title="All Done" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49174237907/in/album-72157712051528583/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49174237907_a382402852_c.jpg" alt="All Gone :)" width="800" height="450" /></a>
All Gone :)

You can read about how I did this work here:

And, I shot a video of this work which is a bit long at 20 mins.


My goal in the video is to explain more about what the wiring under the front engine cover does and how it's routed, as well as show how to remove all the components, so that added to the length. I'll try to keep future videos shorter.

I hope this is helpful to anyone thinking of doing this work.
 
1983 R100RS Remove Timing Chain, Crankshaft Timing Sprocket & Nose Bearing

Folks,

I remove the inner timing cover to get access to the timing chain, the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain tensioner and the chain rubbing block (aka, slide rail).

<a title="All Done" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49174237907/in/album-72157712051528583/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49174237907_a382402852_c.jpg" alt="Inner Timing Cover Exposed After Electrical Components Removed" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Inner Timing Cover Exposed After Electrical Components Removed

<a title="Outside Surface of Inner Timing Cover" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49189726888/in/album-72157712123573248/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49189726888_2e31ee53e5_c.jpg" alt="Inner Timing Cover Removed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Inner Timing Cover Removed

The chain, sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner and rubbing block wear and this affects timing. The wear can be great enough that you can hear the timing chain rattle.

<a title="Untitled" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49196791416/in/album-72157712123573248/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49196791416_7b4e68b1c2_c.jpg" alt="What's Under The Inner Timing Cover" width="800" height="566" /></a>
What's Under The Inner Timing Cover

You can read about how I do this work here:

I made a short video summarizing the procedure that you will find here.


I will replace the crankshaft sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner, rubbing block and the internal components of the oil high pressure relief valve. I will post a separate write-up showing how I do that.

I hope this material is helpful to anyone thinking about doing this work.
 
Beautiful job on the carbs. How did you clean the body, tops and the bowls? Ultrasonic cleaner?

You know, being retired just seems to leave no time to work in the shop. I end up doing all sorts of things and the next thing you know, time for bed. Anyway, I finally wrote up the Bing carburetor rebuild/refinish work I did on the 1983 R100RS project.

When I rebuilt a 1973 BMW R75/5, I covered the procedure to rebuild the Bing type 64 carburetors, which are 32 mm, and the Karcoma petcocks. The R100RS has type 94 carburetors that are 40 mm and the Karcoma petcock outlet is 90 degrees from the inlet instead of directly underneath the inlet as for the R75/5. After 10 years, the designs are essentially the same, but there are some differences which I cover in the procedure write-up.

Here is the link to the R100RS Bing type 94 rebuild/refinish procedures.

I hope this material makes it straight forward for folks to rebuild these carburetors who may have been afraid to tackle a carburetor rebuild. Here are some before and after pictures of the carburetors.

<strong>Before Rebuild/Refinish</strong>

<a title="Left Carburetor Side by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16495851075"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7451/16495851075_b1ff023733_z.jpg" alt="Before-Left Carburetor" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Before-R100RS Type 94 Left Carburetor

<a title="Rusted Top Screws-Soaked in Kroil Overnight by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16744550989"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8728/16744550989_5b6d98711c_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Rusty Screws and Cap on Dome

<a title="Engine Side of Carburetor by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16929773801"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8709/16929773801_a31d3b8923_z.jpg" alt="Engine Side of Carburetor" width="426" height="640" /></a>
Grunge and Fuel Stains

<a title="Float Bowl Removed by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16743314600"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7605/16743314600_8492ae4bab_z.jpg" alt="Float Bowl Removed" width="426" height="640" /></a>
Float Bowl Removed, Missing Paint on Emblem

<strong>After Rebuild/Refinish</strong>

<a title="Inside of Carburetor by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16930744135"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8688/16930744135_086b85b440_z.jpg" alt="Engine Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor" width="426" height="640" /></a>
Engine Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

<a title="Top Side of Carburetor by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16929452862"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8698/16929452862_2f49c0b7b2_z.jpg" alt="Top Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Top Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

<a title="Engine Side of Carburetor by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16743304390"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8709/16743304390_d2b6e3cb69_z.jpg" alt="Outlet Side of of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor" width="426" height="640" /></a>
Outlet Side of of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

<a title="Carburetor Mounted - Clean by Brook Reams, on Flickr" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/16723414427"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8746/16723414427_1c5ce9b1e6_z.jpg" alt="Carburetor Mounted - Clean" width="640" height="426" /></a>
After-R100RS Type 94 Rebuilt and Refinished Carburetor
 
1983 R100RS Remove Camshaft and Crankshaft

Folks,

I remove the crankshaft to check the condition of the main bearings. In order to remove it, I have to remove the camshaft first. I use the tools I bought from Cycle Works to remove the crankshaft. I don't need all those shown below :)

<a title="Cycle Works Stage III Tools" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49190229601/in/album-72157712147034532/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49190229601_e618fffc06_c.jpg" alt="Cycle Works Stage III Tools" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Cycle Works Stage III Tools

I asked Matt Parkhouse, a long time airhead mechanic who lives about two hours from me, to assess the condition of the crankshaft main journals and the main bearings. He found the front bearing was serviceable but the rear main bearing was just outside the maximum clearance. He replaced the bearing and now the front and rear main bearing clearances are close.

<a title="Measuring ID of Original Rear Main Bearing" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49220072957/in/album-72157712147034532/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49220072957_d8f7615263_c.jpg" alt="Measuring ID of Original Rear Main Bearing" width="600" height="800" /></a>
Measuring ID of Original Rear Main Bearing

Since I have to heat the front of the engine block to 275 F, I removed the stater motor and crankcase vent housing hose so they would not be damaged.

Here is the block with the crankshaft and camshaft removed.

<a title="Engine Block Looks Empty" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49199578476/in/album-72157712147034532/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49199578476_fb5d04717f_c.jpg" alt="Engine Block Looks Empty" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Engine Block Looks Empty

You can read about how I do this work here:

And here is a short video of the highlights of the work:

 
Looking Good

Looking Good, Brook. I just changed the cables on my RT and had to look up your pictures on how to do them. St.
 
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