1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

Brook -

Where do find the spec for the canister depth?

And I should point out that Anton also has his discussion of the filter setup on his page:

http://largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html

I realize this is your thread, but people come at this from all angles and it's nice to see how different approaches basically end up with the same thing.

It's a miracle that my engine didn't blow up after my oil and filter changes, way back when.

20774 said:

Brook -

Where do find the spec for the canister depth?

And I should point out that Anton also has his discussion of the filter setup on his page:

http://largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html

I realize this is your thread, but people come at this from all angles and it's nice to see how different approaches basically end up with the same thing.

Click to expand...

Kurt,

I include a link to both Anton's two documents and a couple from Bob Fleischer (aka Snowbum), which have been my sources for information about this work.

I believe Anton notes the BMW specification for the depth of the canister: "BMW specifies 3.1 to 3.8 in a 1983 service bulletin."

I like Oak's simple formula to figure out how many shims and if you need it, the cover gasket.

Best.
Brook.

Rinty said:

It's a miracle that my engine didn't blow up after my oil and filter changes, way back when.

Click to expand...

Rinty,

Well, you may have had the canister at a depth that got a seal with the o-ring. After all, "even a blind pig finds an acorn every now and then."

Best.
Brook.

brook.reams said:

Rinty,

Well, you may have had the canister at a depth that got a seal with the o-ring. After all, "even a blind pig finds an acorn every now and then."

Best.
Brook.

Click to expand...

Thinking back, almost all of the bike's services done by Anderwerks BMW, and Dave Anderson would have gotten the shimming correct. Mine had only one. What I was careful with was to make sure there was only one rubber gasket on the inside end of the oil filter; i.e. that it wasn't doubled up.

1983 R100RS Install Rear Brake System

I'm converting this RS model to a RT. The only difference in the brake system is the length of the hose from the front master cylinder to the front brake line splitter underneath the gas tank as the RT handlebars are wider so that hose is longer. The rear brake system is the same on both the RS and RT models

I previously rebuilt the two front and one rear calipers and rebuilt the rear master cylinder. The front master cylinder was so badly corroded that I replaced it along with the entire right handlebar perch. I also installed the three disk brake rotors on the newly powder coated wheels. You can read about how I did that work here.
<ul class="children">
<li class="page_item page-item-7134"><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-disassemble-inspect-rebuild-brembo-brake-calipers/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers</a></li>
<li class="page_item page-item-7132"><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-disassemble-inspect-rebuild-master-cylinders/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Master Cylinders</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-refinish-install-disk-brake-rotors/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove, Refinish, Install Disk Brake Rotors</a></li>
</ul>
Here is the documentation of how I install the rear brake system and a short video summary of the procedure.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-rear-brake-system/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Brake System</a></li>
</ul>

<strong>VIDEO: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>1983 BMW R100RS/RT Install Brake System</em></span></strong>

The master cylinder in on the right side while the rear brake caliper is on the left so there is a long steel brake line between the master cylinder and a bracket on the left, lower frame gusset where the flexible brake hose from the caliper attaches to the steel brake line. That's a long run of brake line and I use my "Air Zapper" to help pull the air out of the line.

<a title=""Air Zapper" Vacuum Brake Bleeding Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50196614416/in/album-72157715366385898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196614416_0d2a899255_c.jpg" alt=""Air Zapper" Vacuum Brake Bleeding Parts" width="800" height="600" /></a>
"Air Zapper" Vacuum Brake Bleeding Parts

I finished up bleeding the rear brake system by pumping the rear brake pedal and opening and closing the caliper bleed valve to get the last bit of air out of the system. I now have a solid rear brake all set to stop.

<a title="Rear Caliper Mounted" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50196614086/in/album-72157715366385898/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196614086_a276401620_c.jpg" alt="Rear Caliper Mounted And Ready To Stop" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Rear Caliper Mounted And Ready To Stop

So next up is installing the front brake system.

1983 R100RS/RT Install Front Brake System

I'm converting this RS model to a RT. The only difference in the brake system is the length of the hose from the front master cylinder to the front brake line manifold underneath the gas tank (RT: Part# 34 32 1 241 565; RS: Part# 34 32 1 241 564). Since the RT handlebars are wider, that hose is longer. The rear brake system is the same on both the RS and RT models.

Here is a link to the documentation of how I do this work.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-rt-install-front-brake-system/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS/RT Install Front Brake System</a></li>
</ul>
And this is a short video summarizing the procedure.


<strong>VIDEO: <span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS/RT Install Front Brake System</span></strong>

I previously rebuilt the two front and one rear calipers and rebuilt the rear master cylinder. The front master cylinder was so badly corroded that I replaced it along with the entire right handlebar perch. I also installed the three disk brake rotors on the newly powder coated wheels. You can read about how I did that work here.
<ul class="children">
<li class="page_item page-item-7134"><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-disassemble-inspect-rebuild-brembo-brake-calipers/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers</a></li>
<li class="page_item page-item-7132"><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-disassemble-inspect-rebuild-master-cylinders/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Master Cylinders</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-refinish-install-disk-brake-rotors/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove, Refinish, Install Disk Brake Rotors</a></li>
</ul>
Here is the link to showing how I install the rear brake system.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/34-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-rear-brake-system/">34 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Brake System</a></li>
</ul>
I opted to use the mechanical front brake switch that mounts in the right perch instead of the original brake fluid pressure switch that mounts on the rear of the front brake manifold under the gas tank. The hole in the pressure switch can trap an air bubble making it more difficult to bleed the brakes.

I plugged the rear hole in the front brake line manifold where the front brake light pressure switch mounts. McMaster-Carr sells a plug with copper crush washer that's perfect for this.

<a title="Stainless Steel Plug With Copper Washer" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50212839337/in/album-72157715440596511/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50212839337_03e8d73a7d_c.jpg" alt="McMaster Carr Stainless Steel Plug With Copper Washer" width="800" height="600" /></a>
McMaster-Carr Stainless Steel Plug With Copper Washer

<a title="Front Brake Line Manifold Stainless Steel Plug Installed In Hole Where Pressure Switch Used To Go" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50212041273/in/album-72157715440596511/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50212041273_07fd433d64_c.jpg" alt="Stainless Steel Plug Installed In Front Brake Line Manifold Hole For Pressure Switch" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Stainless Steel Plug Installed In Front Brake Line Manifold Hole For Pressure Switch

I now have brakes and the bike is getting pretty close to being finished.

<a title="Left Top Steel Brake Line Routing" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50212838532/in/album-72157715440596511/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50212838532_21ee545883_c.jpg" alt="Front Brake Line Manifold Connections" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Front Brake Line Manifold Connections

<a title="All Done-Right Side" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50214571323/in/album-72157715440596511/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50214571323_66785fa587_c.jpg" alt="All Done-Left Side" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done-Left Side

<a title="All Done-Left Side" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50215093766/in/album-72157715440596511/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50215093766_c9a380ce07_c.jpg" alt="All Done-Right Side" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done-Right Side

1983 R100RS Install Rear Fender Assembly

I installed the rear fender assembly that includes the rear turn signals, tail light and brake light housing, the fender, mud flap and license plate bracket with side reflectors. This is easy work if you remove the rear wheel. But, there is a lot of hardware used and I show what goes where.

This is a link to the detailed documentation and a short video summarizing the work.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/46-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-rear-fender-assembly/">46 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Fender Assembly</a></li>
</ul>

<strong>VIDEO: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>1983 BMW R100RS Install Rear Fender And Lights</em></span></strong>

Here are some pictures of the work.

<a title="Rear Fender Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50224400092/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50224400092_0d1e5a11ce_c.jpg" alt="Rear Fender Assembly Components With Exception Of License Plate Bracket" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Rear Fender Assembly Components With Exception Of License Plate Bracket

<a title="Rear Fender Front Bracket Hardware" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50224175981/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50224175981_d825793495_c.jpg" alt="Front Bracket Hardware For Rear Fender" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Front Bracket Hardware For Rear Fender

<a title="Rear Fender Rear Bracket Hardware" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50224399867/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50224399867_77ca695edf_c.jpg" alt="Rear Bracket Hardware For Rear Fender" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Rear Bracket Hardware For Rear Fender

<a title="Tail Light & Turn Signal Hardware" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50224175916/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50224175916_d98d299813_c.jpg" alt="Tail Light Housing & Turn Signal Mounting Hardware" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Tail Light Housing & Turn Signal Mounting Hardware

<a title="Tail Light Reflector Wiring-GREY-Black is Parking, GREEN-Red Is Stop Light" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50226433112/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50226433112_90fb5e69ff_c.jpg" alt="Tail Light Reflector Wiring-GREY-Black is Parking, GREEN-Red Is Stop Light" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Tail Light Reflector Wiring: <strong><span style="color: #999999;">GREY</span>-Black</strong> is Parking, <strong><span style="color: #00ff00;">GREEN</span>-<span style="color: #ff0000;">Red</span></strong> Is Stop Light

<a title="Routing Of Sub-Harness For Tail & Turn Signal Lights" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50224399437/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50224399437_1d2212339e_c.jpg" alt="Routing Of Sub-Harness on Left Side Of Rear Fender For Tail & Turn Signal Lights" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Routing Of Sub-Harness on Left Side Of Rear Fender For Tail & Turn Signal Lights

<a title="All Done" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50223528813/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50223528813_fdeaa7ff61_c.jpg" alt="All Done" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done

<a title="All Done" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50226433082/in/album-72157715478968451/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50226433082_bc9f373deb_c.jpg" alt="All Done" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done

Brook, as a metallurgical engineer, I feel obligated to comment on your use of a stainless plug and copper washer in an aluminum housing. This is a bad combo from a galvanic corrosion standpoint. Use a plain steel plug that is cad plated, zinc plated or coated with one of the zinc containing organic coatings, like Sermaguard. For the sealing washer, use one of the BMW OEM zinc plated steel washers.

swall said:

Brook, as a metallurgical engineer, I feel obligated to comment on your use of a stainless plug and copper washer in an aluminum housing. This is a bad combo from a galvanic corrosion standpoint. Use a plain steel plug that is cad plated, zinc plated or coated with one of the zinc containing organic coatings, like Sermaguard. For the sealing washer, use one of the BMW OEM zinc plated steel washers.

Click to expand...

Hi Swall,

Thanks for the note. A couple things to add to your observations.

1. Since I put Loctite on the threads and they are where contact occurs between aluminum and stainless, and Loctite is a plastic that creates a water tight and insulated connection, I doubt much, if any, galvanic potential exists that will corrode the threads if there is no electrolyte available.

2. BMW uses stainless steel on the banjo bolt fitting on the right perch where the front brake line connects to the master cylinder (cast from aluminum or pot metal, I'm not sure which) with two copper washers, one between the steel banjo bolt and stainless steel fitting and the other between the stainless steel fitting and the aluminum/pot metal master cylinder. They use copper as it's ductility ensures a seal against the brake fluid pressure and it does not crack under compression which has been shown to happen when using aluminum crush washers. I suspect the fittings are tight enough that electrolyte (aka water) isn't able to penetrate setting up a galvanic reaction and since brake fluid is not an electrolyte, although there is galvanic potential there isn't an electrolyte to allow electron transfer.

3. Now brake fluid is hydroscopic, so if one does not change fluid annually, corrosion can get going which was the case on the steel master cylinder fittings and inside the steel brake lines on this bike.

That said, I'm not a metallurgical engineer, just a one time mechanical engineer who long forgot most of what was taught in the metallurgy class.

OK, Brook, looks like you have considered the issue of corrosion and taken measures to mitigate it. It has been established that brake fluid can become an electrolyte over time with water contamination and there is a test in the SAE J1703 brake fluid spec that uses a series of 6 different metal strips immersed in brake fluid adulterated with water to evaluate the potential for galvanic corrosion. There is also the issue of galvanic corrosion on the outside of the joint from exposure to ambient moisture, particularly when road salts are present. I did an SAE B117 corrosion test one time with an aluminum master cylinder housing with a brass fitting screwed into it and corrosion developed in the crevice/joint. This result convinced the engineer to go with an aluminum plug instead of the brass.

swall said:

OK, Brook, looks like you have considered the issue of corrosion and taken measures to mitigate it. It has been established that brake fluid can become an electrolyte over time with water contamination and there is a test in the SAE J1703 brake fluid spec that uses a series of 6 different metal strips immersed in brake fluid adulterated with water to evaluate the potential for galvanic corrosion. There is also the issue of galvanic corrosion on the outside of the joint from exposure to ambient moisture, particularly when road salts are present. I did an SAE B117 corrosion test one time with an aluminum master cylinder housing with a brass fitting screwed into it and corrosion developed in the crevice/joint. This result convinced the engineer to go with an aluminum plug instead of the brass.

Click to expand...

Swall,

Nonetheless, your observations are useful when considering solutions on future projects. Corrosion considerations need to be part of the answer.

Best.
Brook.

1983 R100RS Install Steering Damper Mechanism

Installation of the steering damper mechanism is straight forward. One thing that you can get wrong is aligning the number on the damper rod with the correct position of the damper rack it adjusts. I show how to get that orientation correct.

Here is the link to the detailed procedure and to a short video summary of the installation process.

• 32 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Steering Damper Mechanism

<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS Install Steering Damper Mechanism</span></em></strong>

1983 R100RS Install Exhaust System

Putting the mufflers on this bike is exhausting. [laugh track]. Okay, I just couldn't resist that one.

I decided to replace the exhaust system due to the amount of corrosion I found on the original one. This year/model bike has two cross-over pipes while the earlier year airheads (before the 1981 model year, or before 09/1980) had a single cross-over pipe beneath the front engine cover. The rumor is the second cross-over pipe improves engine performance over the single pipe models. I got the exhaust system from <a href="http://www.euromotoelectrics.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Euro MotoElectrics</a>

I also install the Brown's side stand that came with the bike as it attaches to the left side header bracket and the front hole of the side stand bracket uses special bolt and nut supplied with the side stand. There is also a toothed washer for the rear hole that mounts on the rear engine stud with the standard nut to keep the side stand bracket from rotating on the engine stud.

Here is a link to the detailed installation procedure and a short video summary of the installation.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/18-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-exhaust-system/">18 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Exhaust System</a></li>
</ul>

<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS Install Exhaust System</span></em></strong>

Here are some pictures.

<a title="Header & Cross-Over Pipes" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50243212387/in/album-72157715542670196/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50243212387_ff5eb3ed01_c.jpg" alt="Header & Cross-Over Pipes From EME" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Header & Cross-Over Pipes From EME

<a title="Front Header Pipe (Top) Is Longer Than Rear Pipe (Bottom)" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50242362533/in/album-72157715542670196/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50242362533_1e7545f680_c.jpg" alt="Front Header Pipe (Top) Is Longer Than Rear Pipe (Bottom)" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Front Header Pipe (Top) Is Longer Than Rear Pipe (Bottom)

<a title="Exhaust Header Hardware" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50243075996/in/album-72157715542670196/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50243075996_5878a88d8b_c.jpg" alt="Exhaust Header Hardware" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Exhaust Header Hardware

<a title="Brown's Side Stand Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50243002046/in/album-72157715542670196/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50243002046_40833f5e98_c.jpg" alt="Brown's Side Stand Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Brown's Side Stand Installed

<a title="New Muffler Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50245011598/in/album-72157715542670196/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50245011598_332734f214_c.jpg" alt="New Muffler Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Muffler Installed

<a title="New Headers And Cross-Over Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50245651336/in/album-72157715542670196/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50245651336_d9dbeb3a5d_c.jpg" alt="New Headers And Cross-Over Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
New Headers And Cross-Over Installed

1983 R100RS Install Center And Side Stands

I am not using the stock side stand for three reasons: the bushing and bolt are trash, it's in an inconvenient location hidden by the cylinder and lower fairing panel when extended making it hard to deploy, and the bike came with a Brown's side stand which mounts further back on the frame so it's easy to deploy. The left exhaust header bracket is secured to the Brown's side stand bracket so I installed the side stand when I installed the exhaust system.

<a title="Brown's Side Stand" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50243212317/in/album-72157715579680761/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50243212317_7049fb292c_c.jpg" alt="Brown's Side Stand" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Brown's Side Stand

<a title="Brown's Side Stand Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50243002046/in/album-72157715579680761/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50243002046_40833f5e98_c.jpg" alt="Brown's Side Stand Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Brown's Side Stand Installed

I had the center stand repaired and powder coated. I replaced the pivot bolts and bushings due to wear and tear.

<a title="Center Stand Work Through" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/47575727151/in/album-72157677603906517/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/7925/47575727151_51f9330d5e_c.jpg" alt="Center Stand Wear and Tear After 82,000 Miles And 37 Years" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Center Stand Wear and Tear After 82,000 Miles And 37 Years

<a title="Powder Coated Center Stand" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50253737482/in/album-72157715579680761/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50253737482_74a60cc977_c.jpg" alt="Repaired And Powder Coated Center Stand" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Repaired And Powder Coated Center Stand

Here is a link showing how I do this work.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/46-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-center-and-side-stands/">46 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Center And Side Stands</a></li>
</ul>
I take the bike off the lift to test out both stands. Everything works smoothly. It's nice to have it on the center stand again

<a title="Cookie Monster Too Side Stand Works" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50255205368/in/album-72157715579680761/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50255205368_44b733cb5e_c.jpg" alt="Side Stand Works" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Side Stand Works

<a title="Cookie Monster Too Center Stand Works" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50255870966/in/album-72157715579680761/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50255870966_7ef92d0207_c.jpg" alt="Center Stand Works" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Center Stand Works

1983 R100RS Install Carburetors, Cables And Air Box

I show how I remove the carburetors and airbox in this write-up.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/13-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-carburetors-air-box/">13 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Carburetors & Air Box</a></li>
</ul>Since I am converting this RS model to an RT, the handlebar throttle and choke cables have to be longer and I show how to change the handlebar cables in the Bowden assembly. I installed them when I installed the handlebar perches as shown here.
<ul class="children">
<li class="page_item page-item-8645"><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/32-bmw-r100rt-install-handlebar-perch-assemblies/">32 BMW 1983 R100RT Install Handlebar Perch Assemblies</a></li>
</ul>
I had the air box powder coated. Although the carburetor rebuild was a couple years ago, I rode the bike less than 1,500 miles after the rebuild and they have been off the bike for about two years. I inspected the o-rings and found they are in good condition so no need to do another carburetor rebuild.

Since I modified the engine to boost compression from 8.2:1 to 9.5:1 and had the heads bored for dual spark plugs, I have to change the carburetor jetting. This engine has the same configuration as the engine in my 1977 R100RS that has the CFO (California, Florida, Oregon) configuration, so I use the same carburetor jetting.

When I first got the bike, I rebuilt the carburetors and "updated" the pulse-air system that fed air to the exhaust ports as shown here.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/13-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-bing-carburetors-karcoma-petcocks/">13 BMW 1983 R100RS Rebuild Bing 94/40 Carburetors & Karcoma Petcocks</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/13-bmw-1983-r100rs-update-pulse-air-system/">13 BMW 1983 R100RS Update Pulse Air System</a></li>
</ul>Here is how I did the work.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/13-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-carburetors-cables-and-air-box/">13 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Carburetors, Cables and Air Box</a></li>
</ul>
And this is a video summary of the procedure.


<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 R100RS Install Carburetors, Cables And Air Box</span></em></strong>

Here are a few pictures from the write-up.

<a title="Air Box Top, Air Filter And Air Box" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50269511576/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269511576_f550d0956a_c.jpg" alt="Air Box Top, Air Filter And Air Box" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Air Box Top, Air Filter And Air Box

<a title="Air Box Internal Parts And Fittings" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50269686357/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269686357_5ff345256f_c.jpg" alt="Air Box Internal Parts And Fittings" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Air Box Internal Parts And Fittings

<a title="Air Box Fittings" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50268845188/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268845188_defb006e20_c.jpg" alt="Air Box Fittings" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Air Box Fittings

<a title="Air Box Components Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50269510541/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269510541_0a0d5b1a29_c.jpg" alt="Air Horn Plastic Pipes Attach To Tee With Wire Spring Clamps" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Air Horn Plastic Pipes Attach To Tee With Wire Spring Clamps

<a title="Snap Clips Into Air Box Cover Slots" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50268843983/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268843983_d6b741eaa6_c.jpg" alt="Snap Clips Into Air Box Cover Slots" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Snap Clips Into Air Box Cover Slots

<a title="Throttle Cable Routing (Right Side)" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50279544067/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50279544067_9e88ff1fe8_c.jpg" alt="Throttle Cable Bowden Connector Routing Next To Frame On Top Of Voltage Regulator (Right Side)" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Throttle Cable Bowden Connector Routing Next To Frame On Top Of Voltage Regulator (Right Side)

<a title="Choke Cable Routing (Left Side)" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50278700953/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50278700953_451c8afcff_c.jpg" alt="Choke Cable Bowden Connector Housing Routing Under Starter Relay (Left Side)" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Choke Cable Bowden Connector Housing Routing Under Starter Relay (Left Side)

<a title="Richer 170 Main Jet Installed In Jet Carrier" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50265890112/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265890112_1c32d12c3f_c.jpg" alt="Richer 170 Main Jet Installed In Jet Carrier" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Richer 170 Main Jet Installed In Jet Carrier

<a title="Adjust Throttle Stop Screw" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50265889852/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265889852_d8e84b8a88_c.jpg" alt="Adjust Throttle Stop Screw So It Just Contacts Throttle Arm Using A Piece Of Paper" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Adjust Throttle Stop Screw So It Just Contacts Throttle Arm Using A Piece Of Paper

<a title="All Done-Right Side" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50279389666/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50279389666_e63c89e3ac_c.jpg" alt="All Done-Left Side" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done-Left Side

<a title="All Done-Right Side" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50279389596/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50279389596_b000b6f390_c.jpg" alt="All Done-Right Side" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done-Right Side

<a title="All Done-Top" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50278700373/in/album-72157715622483646/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50278700373_4a1ebe71f1_c.jpg" alt="All Done-Top" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done-Top

1983 R100RS/RT First Engine Start Milestone

The first engine start is always a major milestone on a project. I usually perform this earlier in the build than I am on this project. But, my gas tank and the other parts that I had painted have been delayed coming back, so I've done everything else I can do until I got the gas tank in hand. This Friday, I picked it up and installed it.

I made a detailed check list prior to starting the engine so I wouldn't forget something and improve the likelihood the engine will start.

Here is a link to the procedure I followed to prepare for the engine start, and how I performed the all important initial bedding in of the new piston rings with the new Nikasil coated cylinders.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-first-engine-start/">11 BMW 1983 R100RS First Engine Start</a></li>
</ul>
I also made a summary video of the procedure and recorded the engine start.


<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS/RT First Engine Start</span></em></strong>

brook.reams said:

The first engine start is always a major milestone on a project. I usually perform this earlier in the build than I am on this project. But, my gas tank and the other parts that I had painted have been delayed coming back ...

Click to expand...

I was complaining about this very thing once to my good friend, the late Richard Wildauer. He smiled and said, "You don't understand. Painters think in geologic time."

PGlaves said:

I was complaining about this very thing once to my good friend, the late Richard Wildauer. He smiled and said, "You don't understand. Painters think in geologic time."

Click to expand...

Paul,

How true. I've never had a painter refuse work, but they never tell you "I'll do that when I get to it, and am in the right mood." In this case, he's a friend who moved his business to Phoenix and then ended up having to move his shop 3 times, finally having to close for awhile when his partner abandoned him and his 1/2 of the rent. Then COVID-19 intruded, and my plan to pick up the parts back in April fell through. Oh well, if they weren't here, there's less chance I'd have damaged the panels before mounting them. :-0

Best.
Brook.

Painters

I am looking for a painter now myself. The fellow I would like to have do the job is moving and then becomes a snow bird in the winter. Next summer he is only in my area for four months and is already pretty much booked.

Meanwhile, I am grounded from riding for the rest of this season and I have a broken RT fairing to be replaced with a newer used one but not a match with the tanks and other parts of the bike.

Lots of car paint shops, few bike shops. Now if it were a powder coat job, no problem, I can't swing a cat without hitting one of them. LOL. St.