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Thread: High front brake lever

  1. #1
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    High front brake lever

    Just reaching out to the vast wealth of knowledge available on the forum. I just rebuilt my R 90/6 and am having the same issue as I did last year prior to the rebuild. As I bled the front brake master cylinder I got a very high lever with very little adjustability . It seems much too high. Any suggestions? Thanks....image.jpg

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    What do you mean by high? Positioned high or is the lever hard to pull? A picture would help.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    High lever

    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    What do you mean by high? Positioned high or is the lever hard to pull? A picture would help.
    What I mean is that the lever throw is about a half an inch before it grabs. That's backed off as far as is will go, at the master cylinder and the handlebar lever. I can't get it any " looser ".

  4. #4
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Hard Front brake lever??

    I have two R90/6 with the master cylinder under the fuel tank, cable from lever to m/cyl. I rebuilt the calipers, m/cyls and installed Speigler brake lines. Both sit at about 1/2" max throw, static, sitting on the floor, not moving.

    When riding, the throw is very much the same but the "squeeze" to lock up the front, not that I want to, is a good 1", about half way. I think I have excellent brake feel so I wasn't worried until your post........................................
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case, my baby, fast, fun)
    3xR90/6, two just sold, one for a sidecar. 1983 K100RS (Cafe now)
    Very Rough R80RT. 1987 K1100RS (freaking hooped I think)

  5. #5
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    High lever

    Quote Originally Posted by dieselyoda View Post
    I have two R90/6 with the master cylinder under the fuel tank, cable from lever to m/cyl. I rebuilt the calipers, m/cyls and installed Speigler brake lines. Both sit at about 1/2" max throw, static, sitting on the floor, not moving.

    When riding, the throw is very much the same but the "squeeze" to lock up the front, not that I want to, is a good 1", about half way. I think I have excellent brake feel so I wasn't worried until your post........................................
    I would just like to be able the back it off a little

  6. #6
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    How are you adjusting the under tank master cylinder? Are you setting the proper distance per the lower right figure on this page:

    http://www.pbase.com/dwerbil/image/74356089

    The original tool kits came with a forked measuring device to determine how far out the small piston needed to be. The thickness of the feeler gage was something like 7/32"...that's from memory and I wouldn't trust that, but you can use any feeler gage to ensure that the adjustment is right.

    What about the cable? Maybe you don't have the right cable??
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #7
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    When I tried to move our rescued /6 , it was locked up. I tried everything to get it released... then looked at the diagram. The m/c and cable had been replaced by the original owners son. Somehow the cable and chain setup had been flipped and no adjustment was possible
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
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  8. #8
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    The original tool kits came with a forked measuring device to determine how far out the small piston needed to be.
    Looking like...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  9. #9
    IIRC, when I used that tool I didn't like where it left the engagement point of the front brake -- there was too little play before the brake actuated, which is what I take Jinxman to be complaining of. The real problem for me was short fingers -- too little play and I couldn't, easily, squeeze the brake as much as I wanted. I adjusted the cable at the master cylinder to give the play I wanted. While that was considerably off what I had using gap tool, I never had a problem.
    '61 Clubman's Gold Star, '13 690 Duke, '13 Daytona 675R, '14 Street Triple R, '17 1290 GT (gone but not forgotten: '76 R75/6, '84 R100, '76 R90S)

  10. #10
    Unless you want to keep that system for aesthetics, you're just way better off converting to a handlebar-mounted master cylinder like the '81-on bikes had. The under-tank system was never that good and you can't expect to make it better than it was when new.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  11. #11
    Registered User Jinxman69's Avatar
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    Got it

    [QUOTE=Jinxman69;1007163]Just reaching out to the vast wealth of knowledge available on the forum. I just rebuilt my R 90/6 and am having the same issue as I did last year prior to the rebuild. As I bled the front brake master cylinder I got a very high lever with very little adjustability . It seems much too high. Any suggestions? Thanks....[ATTACH]51184[/ Had the wrong spacer on the master cylinder

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