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Thread: Cam Chain Tensioner replacement--simplest method?

  1. #1
    Rally Rat
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    Cam Chain Tensioner replacement--simplest method?

    Anyone have any luck getting the old tensioner removed without disassembling the TB?

  2. #2
    You don't have to really dissasemble the throttle body. Just disconnect the fuel line, slide the air tube back, remove the TB from the rubber spigot, and dangle it all out of the way.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    You don't have to really dissasemble the throttle body. Just disconnect the fuel line, slide the air tube back, remove the TB from the rubber spigot, and dangle it all out of the way.
    What about the ground wire, and the TPS connector? When you say rubber spigot, do you mean unbolt the TB from the cylinder head?

  4. #4
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    When you are at the point of removing the lower portion of the old cam chain tensioner just use a magnet. It will leap up out of the hole.
    2004 R 1150 GS

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    write-up with pics here.
    can unbolt, or just pull the sleeve, no big diff.
    http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r...tensioner.html
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by mgordon View Post
    What about the ground wire, and the TPS connector? When you say rubber spigot, do you mean unbolt the TB from the cylinder head?
    You get more clearance if you loosen the ground wire. I've not disconnected the TPS. At the head, just loosen the clamp and slide the TB out of the rubber sleeve (spigot) but leave the spigot bolted to the head.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    You get more clearance if you loosen the ground wire. I've not disconnected the TPS. At the head, just loosen the clamp and slide the TB out of the rubber sleeve (spigot) but leave the spigot bolted to the head.
    Awesome! thanks all...

  8. #8
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    Done!

    Ok, that was quite simple!

  9. #9
    Registered User froggy's Avatar
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    Replaced mine over the winter bordom salted road days.Took it out when the salt was cleared and noticed it was less noisey.But it still rattles once in a while.Anyone else have this problem?
    We drove all this way for a DEAD END ! My son!!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewmeister View Post
    Yes that's what I used,a magnet on the end of a radio antena.It worked great.
    When I couldn't get the tensioner up fully out of the hole, I advanced the cam chain with the back wheel slightly until the tensioner dropped back down--lots more room to pull it up. Once I had the tensioner body removed and the spring was sticking out by itself a little slight pressure against the wall of tensioner hole as I removed the spring (rather than pulling it straight out) brought the plunger with it!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy View Post
    Replaced mine over the winter bordom salted road days.Took it out when the salt was cleared and noticed it was less noisey.But it still rattles once in a while.Anyone else have this problem?
    Did you replace it with another OEM BMW part or with the improved aftermarket unit? The BMW unit will continue to rattle as the oil drains from it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzohr View Post
    Did you replace it with another OEM BMW part or with the improved aftermarket unit? The BMW unit will continue to rattle as the oil drains from it.
    OEM...upgraded part with internal spring...Hmmmm!?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzohr View Post
    Did you replace it with another OEM BMW part or with the improved aftermarket unit? The BMW unit will continue to rattle as the oil drains from it.
    how do you figure?
    the new upgraded OEM part is the only one available- the older style unit has been superseded by the newer one (common BMW behavior). I am completely unaware of any aftermarket part having been produced for this application. the part you now order from BMW for any year oilhead is identical to the item being used in the hexheads. either oil is no longer used to pressurized the tensioner, or it is unable to drain out of it (haven't looked at the internals to know for sure which method is employed).
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  14. #14
    nbsdave
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgordon View Post
    OEM...upgraded part with internal spring...Hmmmm!?
    no spring in the upgraded tensioner, different piston and different cylinder
    installed mine last month, not too difficult at all
    look here, good info
    http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...ionerSwap.html

  15. #15
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Has anyone _ever_ heard of the old tensioner falling into the engine when being replaced?

    The reason I ask is I stopped at Ozzie's BMW in Chico on the way home from the 49er rally a couple days ago and picked up the parts I need to replace mine tomorrow.
    The mechanic there was telling me to make sure and remove the left valve cover and use a magnet to hold on to the bottom of the tensioner so it did not fall in when the top half is removed.

    Since the tensioner is held up by the arm I cannot imagine how this could happen.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
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