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Rear Flange Recall - BMW "Technical Campaign"

Or local dealer requires you to leave the bike as collateral before they will special order the recall parts. Yeaaaaah.
 
Mossy_Crk said:
Or local dealer requires you to leave the bike as collateral before they will special order the recall parts. Yeaaaaah.
Click to expand...

Is this a guess, a sarcastic cut at dealers in general, a known fact regarding a specific dealership, or what? If a dealership is actually doing this we need to know which one so we can all complain to BMW and the Feds.
 
This is very real. BMW Motorrad and BMW AG were notified.

Some dealers are amazing and a great part of the community while still turning a profit for themselves and their employees. Others are stuck in used car dealer mentalities and we see that in how fast dealerships themselves turn over. BMW doesn't seem to care much about dealerships once they are up and running so long as the keep the floor blue and the right amount of floor space dedicated to the brand.

For many of us, that's the disconnect. Enthusiasts and businessmen. It's got to be hard to get those two demographics to align. Now mix in every other type of customer and we see the difficulty. I know I don't want to try to start a BMW dealer in a town.
 
chiba13 said:
I'm sure every dealership in the country would be happy to store your bike until such a time as they can perform the recall service. It's only late spring, when everybody & their brother wants their bike serviced :)

I'm no expert, but I'd say if your flange isn't cracked, make an appointment and ride until then. It's super easy to inspect the flange - just pop the rear wheel off and shine a light on it. You'll see immediately if it's cracked. Just be sure you torque the bolts properly when you put the wheel back on :wave
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Wait until later in June to let them get free of the seasonal crunch.

I checked my flange. No cracks on the wheel bolt holes but all 5 brake rotor holes were cracked. And all 5 bolts secure in there and still working fine. I tested the bike with a 450 mile ride to Lacrosse, WI at warp speed...heh-heh...Can't be too careful!

I think these things have been cracked for years. It's not more dangerous because someone notices. I wouldn't panic over this unless wheel bolt holes are cracked. BTW - I've never removed any of those rear rotor bolts and I'm the only owner of this bike. It has ~85K on it.

I'm not a safety authority and following my sage advice and example is not recommended.

:burnout
 
I just did a full service on my bike and none of the bolt holes were cracked. I've never had the rotor off and I use a torque wrench for the wheel bolts. So far, so good. I think I'll wait for the rush to die down before taking it in for replacement.
 
ponch1 said:
I just did a full service on my bike and none of the bolt holes were cracked. I've never had the rotor off and I use a torque wrench for the wheel bolts. So far, so good. I think I'll wait for the rush to die down before taking it in for replacement.
Click to expand...

Everybody needs to think on this.

From what I can discern the vast majority of cracks are where the disk mounts to the flange - not where the wheel mounts. And, for the majority of the bikes the disks have never been removed, loosened, or tightened since the bikes left the factory. So, if it is in fact true that overtightening of the mounting bolts is the cause of the cracking then for the vast majority of cases that overtightening happened when the bikes were assembled at the factory. Either that or it is being caused by the exhaust from using American gasoline. :)

Now for the cases where it is the wheel mounting points that have cracked, the overtightening "cause" might be accurate. In either case the steel replacement is required.
 
PGlaves said:
Everybody needs to think on this.

From what I can discern the vast majority of cracks are where the disk mounts to the flange - not where the wheel mounts. And, for the majority of the bikes the disks have never been removed, loosened, or tightened since the bikes left the factory. So, if it is in fact true that overtightening of the mounting bolts is the cause of the cracking then for the vast majority of cases that overtightening happened when the bikes were assembled at the factory. Either that or it is being caused by the exhaust from using American gasoline. :)

Now for the cases where it is the wheel mounting points that have cracked, the overtightening "cause" might be accurate. In either case the steel replacement is required.
Click to expand...

I plan on bringing it in, but there's no rush, at least for me. I was actually both astounded and happy I didn't find any cracks. Getting the alternator belt on was fun though. :)
 
Mine's getting done on Thursday... They said it will take 1.5 hours. I'm planning on test riding something while they work on it :)
 
Finally got the notice from the motherland for both of our bikes and had my private BMW shop check them for cracks just last month so will wait a bit to get them into the dealer. Timing will be between Billings and Salty Fog. This thread has been a very valuable one for us all.
 
My 2010 is going in on the 17th of June. Flange, new switch gear, new fuel sensor. Nice to get it all done at once. The switches are my biggest concern.
 
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