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Thread: '13 R1200RT starting issue

  1. #1

    '13 R1200RT starting issue

    My name is Nick. I have been a member of MOA for abut 15 years, but am new to the forum. I rode a '00 K1200LT until last year, when I bought a '13 R1200RT to get lighter. I was unhappy with the Boxer, having gotten used to the K, so I bought a '10 K1300GT and will sell the RT when the weather breaks. Thankfully, I live in central Indiana and not eastern Massachusetts! The weather will get better soon (I hope).
    My problem is with the RT. It will not start in cold weather most of the time. With the battery fully charged, it will turn over and try to start (will fire, like trying to start a cold engine without a choke), but after about 15 seconds, it just clicks, like the battery is dead. The battery tester says the battery is fully charged.
    I have had it hauled to the dealer twice (tomorrow will be the third time), but they cannot duplicate the problem. At first, I thought they were putting it in the shop, where it is warm, and it would start right up. The last time, I had them leave it outside in 25 degree weather, but it started OK. This afternoon I tried to start it in 37 degree weather, but no luck. The battery seemed to last about 30 seconds, but the charger says it is fully charged. The dealer has replaced the multifunction switches under recall.
    Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Hi, Nick! Welcome to the forum. Sorry your have issues with the RT. In a little time, I'll move this thread to the Hexhead/Camhead (or is this a water cooler RT...that would be the Wethead forum) where the other owners can provide you some input. Watch for the link showing the transfer...
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User lkraus's Avatar
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    The most common cold start problem seems to be failure to crack the throttle a bit at low temperatures (less than 40F).
    Last paragraph:

    start.jpg
    Larry
    2006 R1200RT

  4. #4
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Yes, pulling the clutch lever means the starter doesn't have to turn the transmission and move that cold, thick gear oil.

    Opening the throttle a bit means the starter doesn't have to work against as much engine vacuum ... more correctly said have to move air past a closed throttle.

    But ... if the final result is clicking, the battery is simply not up to snuff.

    And, this thread should be in Hexheads/Camheads, as the latter is what a 2013 RT is.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S

  5. #5
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post

    And, this thread should be in Hexheads/Camheads, as the latter is what a 2013 RT is.
    That one is on me moving...
    Steve Henson-Mod Team

    No one gets out alive, Live accordingly!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by lkraus View Post
    The most common cold start problem seems to be failure to crack the throttle a bit at low temperatures (less than 40F).
    Last paragraph:

    start.jpg
    WOOOOOW its even in the manual. i need to read that stuff more :/
    Crick0234

    bikes owned: r1200rt, f800st
    bikes gone: honda shadow vlx, suzuki katana 600

  7. #7
    Registered User
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    Quote Originally Posted by 165280 View Post
    WOOOOOW its even in the manual. i need to read that stuff more :/
    Crick - we all know that Real Men don't need to RTFM.

    JayJay
    ******
    '09 R1200 RT, '73 R75/5 Toaster (under rehabilitation)
    Lots of rice burners in the past ...

  8. #8
    Registered User rocketmanli's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem a little while ago with my '09RT, and was advised to do a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) re-learn, and it worked.

    Disconnect battery terminals for a couple of minutes.
    Re-connect terminals.
    Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine)
    Then, without starting the engine, fully open & close the throttle 3 times so that the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position.
    Then, switch off the ignition.

    That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.

    I think the initial problem was caused by me, as I had the battery disconnected when I added some accessories. I guess the computer forgot the settings while I had it disconnected, and the first time I went to start it, the engine just cranked but would not start. All better since then.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Hi, Nick! Welcome to the forum. Sorry your have issues with the RT. In a little time, I'll move this thread to the Hexhead/Camhead (or is this a water cooler RT...that would be the Wethead forum) where the other owners can provide you some input. Watch for the link showing the transfer...
    Thanks. I am not very familiar with the designations for the boxer engine. I know it is not a wet head.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Yes, pulling the clutch lever means the starter doesn't have to turn the transmission and move that cold, thick gear oil.

    Opening the throttle a bit means the starter doesn't have to work against as much engine vacuum ... more correctly said have to move air past a closed throttle.

    But ... if the final result is clicking, the battery is simply not up to snuff.

    And, this thread should be in Hexheads/Camheads, as the latter is what a 2013 RT is.
    Thanks for your feedback. The battery analyzer indicates the battery is fully charged, even after attempting to start the bike. I do not know how accurate the temperature indicator in the onboard computer is, but it did start with the air temp outside at 36, and the bike computer indicated 45. Next day air temp was 40, bike indicated 33, and it tried to start 2x, then clicked like a dead battery. Analyzer still indicated battery fully charged. I have not tried cracking the throttle yet, but will later today after the temps drop.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by lkraus View Post
    The most common cold start problem seems to be failure to crack the throttle a bit at low temperatures (less than 40F).
    Last paragraph:

    start.jpg
    Thanks. I will try that. I have read the manual several times, but apparently missed that part. At the time I read the manual I was not having a problem.

  12. #12
    #13338 PGlaves's Avatar
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    Regardless of the throttle position or clutch lever position the battery ought to crank the engine for more than 30 seconds before the relay just clicks and cranking ceases. It could be a bad battery. It could be a defective starter relay. It could be starter drag in the starter requiring too many amps to crank the engine.

    Battery voltage while not under load is an OK initial measurement but when a problem is indicated it is not definitive. I'd try cranking the engine and reading the voltage while the starter is cranking. I suspect that number would tell us something.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by lkraus View Post
    The most common cold start problem seems to be failure to crack the throttle a bit at low temperatures (less than 40F).
    Last paragraph:

    start.jpg
    Good News! I did what you (and the OM) suggested, cracked the throttle and squeezed the clutch in 32 degrees and the bike started right up. I will try again tomorrow AM when the temp will be in the single digits and see if it works. I guess if I had read the manual a little closer I would have saved myself a headache, but the dealer could have called that to my attention and saved us both a headache.
    Thanks for the help!
    Nick

  14. #14
    i wonder about the dealership sometimes :/ sometimes they dont know they bike they're selling... or maybe its just hte sales people.

    one of the sales folks at my BMW dealership caught me on teh floor staring at the final drive and site glass and asked me whats up. I enthusiastically replied "its amazing that they now have the sightglass on the same side as the fillcap!" and the salesperson wasnt surprised and said "yeah? its always been like that."

    *sadness*
    Crick0234

    bikes owned: r1200rt, f800st
    bikes gone: honda shadow vlx, suzuki katana 600

  15. #15
    He's almost right I think. Isn't it just he Camheads that have the filler on the opposite side? My Hexheads have had the filler on the left side with the sight glass.
    3Putt
    2022 GS

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