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Thread: how to torque transmission allen head mounting bolts ??? Late model airhead

  1. #1

    how to torque transmission allen head mounting bolts ??? Late model airhead

    I don't see any way to get a torque wrench on these allen head screws. What do you guys do? The only idea I can come up with is to torque a bolt some where else to get the "feel" of how tight they should be then wing it by feel.

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    I'm not sure exactly which allen heads you're speaking of, but if there's clearance to get the torque wrench in there, they make allen wrench adapters for torque wrenches. If there's no room, with some machining, one could build an extension to the torque wrench but then you would have to adjust your torque values depending on the change in length. For other places, one that I can think of such as the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the transmission output flange, usually what works successfully is blue Loctite and a good "grunt" with a regular tool kit wrench. In your situation, possible some Loctite and a good enough attempt to tighten the head would probably work.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Allen-head socket. Proper length extension. 3/8" drive torque wrench.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

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    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Allen-head socket. Proper length extension. 3/8" drive torque wrench.
    e.g. metric allen, of course



    And possibly even mo' betta... . "Ball end" allen sockets. Although if you get too far off of "perpendicular" it will affect torque values somewhat.

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

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    Registered User donbmw's Avatar
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    I just snug them up real good.
    1975 R90/6, 1980 and 1982 R65, 2015 Ural Patrol, 1959 TR3A Triumph Car

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    Registered User godfather's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Allen-head socket. Proper length extension. 3/8" drive torque wrench.
    +1 Just did my 78' /7 like this
    Attitude is everything!

    08' V-Strom 650 great light weight tourer

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    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lmo1131 View Post
    Although if you get too far off of "perpendicular" it will affect torque values somewhat.

    Not to mention the fact you'll probably strip out the hex in the bolt head.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

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    Registered User toooldtocare's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbmw View Post
    I just snug them up real good.
    Me too.

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    #4869 DennisDarrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toooldtocare View Post
    Me too.
    Yup.........It's called a calibrated wrist.........God bless.......Dennis

  10. #10
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    ...as opposed to "running it in until is smokes, then back off a quarter turn..."
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  11. #11
    Ended up with " calibrated wrist" method. There is no way to get a proper tool on this without sawing off the shifter linkage boss.

  12. #12
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Yeah, this is one of those locations that I try and remember how difficult it was to break it loose and then repeat that on installation. Hopefully, it's not a long time between those points. But certainly snug is good here...and it's easy enough to recheck a few times after some heat cycles...if it's still tight, ya done good!
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  13. #13
    SURVIVOR akbeemer's Avatar
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    Hexhead fasteners seem to me to be among the easiest to bugger up. It is important that you use good tools made of quality steel and with crisp edges. I supose that is why BMW went with Torex fasteners on the newer machines.
    Kevin Huddy
    The Outpost, Silver City, Montana

  14. #14
    Curmudgeon nrpetersen's Avatar
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    I agree the torque level isn't that critical as there's plenty of thread engagement and it is a static application.

    But if you really want to torque it, cut an unplated hex key to fit. Then cut a slot in an old 3/8 inch drive socket to engage the hex bar handle of the hex key. Measure the increase in the torque wrench operating radius and reduce the wrench reading proportionately.

    Note that if the torque wrench handle is at right angles to the hex bar, the increase in effective radius is essentially zero and no compensation is needed.
    Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6

  15. #15
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Get a "stubby" hex

    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

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