i'm a new member with a 2002 r1150r with a question about the vale push rods. i think mine need examination for possible replacement. do i need to take the head off to do this or can i just access them once i take the valve cover off? i have adjusted the valves and they stay in adjustment but i still have that annoying valve sound that i would love to eliminate. thoughts? thanks.
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push rods
- Thread starter rogerfe
- Start date
gsaddict
Pepperfool
Head stays on.
Welcome
Update with the 1200 type one piece steel ones
11 31 7 688 631 VALVE PUSHROD - D=10
Cylinder worked on must be at TDC
Back off all adjusters
The rocker carrier will need to be semi disassembled to get one of the 2 in place on each side.
The old alum/steel pushrods are too fat to clear the rockers (fwd ones)
The 2 lower cylinder head nuts & washers will need to be carefully loosened and removed to do this, along with 2 m6 torx heads.
Pull bottom cross block out
Rocker shafts slide down after that.
Exchange pushrods making sure they bottom into their respective sockets properly.
Retorque nuts (shoulder to the inside)to spec paying attention to the rocker end play spec. when re-assembled.
Adjust valves.
Do other side in the same fashion
Check torque 600 miles later.
Not a hard job at all.
Welcome
Update with the 1200 type one piece steel ones
11 31 7 688 631 VALVE PUSHROD - D=10
Cylinder worked on must be at TDC
Back off all adjusters
The rocker carrier will need to be semi disassembled to get one of the 2 in place on each side.
The old alum/steel pushrods are too fat to clear the rockers (fwd ones)
The 2 lower cylinder head nuts & washers will need to be carefully loosened and removed to do this, along with 2 m6 torx heads.
Pull bottom cross block out
Rocker shafts slide down after that.
Exchange pushrods making sure they bottom into their respective sockets properly.
Retorque nuts (shoulder to the inside)to spec paying attention to the rocker end play spec. when re-assembled.
Adjust valves.
Do other side in the same fashion
Check torque 600 miles later.
Not a hard job at all.
Attachments
Last edited:
lkchris
Active member
Is the detached ball end on the original-style pushrod a failure or is this part usually a loose fit?
The new version pushrod is quieter because ... ?
Note searching realoem that the new version pushrod is the only part now available for Oilheads.
Is there a BMW tech bulletin regarding use of the new part in Oilheads?
The new version pushrod is quieter because ... ?
Note searching realoem that the new version pushrod is the only part now available for Oilheads.
Is there a BMW tech bulletin regarding use of the new part in Oilheads?
gsaddict
Pepperfool
The detached end picture is to show the loose end. In real life all it will do is move and be a source of irritating noise.
The new style is no quieter than an old style in good condition but will not separate over time.
Yes, the new style is all that is now available new.
Tech bulletins are dealer propriety and I have not seen any such document
A good source of these is off a sacked 1200 engine FYI
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Questions:
Do the "older" pushrods actually wear significantly?
How often does one loosen up enough to rattle, or even actually fail?
Isn't it more likely that his noise is from the left cam chain tensioner? And/or rocker arm end play?
(And note that some have reported that using a different oil seems to quiet things down a bit too.)
In my Harley days, when somebody wanted to swap out the hydraulic lifters & pushrods for a full-solid setup, one way around the head disassembly was to simply use a bolt cutters on the rods. Might that be applied here?
Do the "older" pushrods actually wear significantly?
How often does one loosen up enough to rattle, or even actually fail?
Isn't it more likely that his noise is from the left cam chain tensioner? And/or rocker arm end play?
(And note that some have reported that using a different oil seems to quiet things down a bit too.)
In my Harley days, when somebody wanted to swap out the hydraulic lifters & pushrods for a full-solid setup, one way around the head disassembly was to simply use a bolt cutters on the rods. Might that be applied here?
pglaves
#13338
Nope. There is barely room for a needlenose pliers, let alone a bolt cutter.
thank you for the detailed reply. i'll let you know how it goes. it will be nice if i can get it a little quieter.
Right side chain tensioner also
You might want to upgrade the right side cam chain tensioner while you have the bike apart. That takes a 1200 cam chain tensioner also. I have had the time to do either one of my oilheads but hear it helps a lot to quiet the valve train noise especially at start up.
You might want to upgrade the right side cam chain tensioner while you have the bike apart. That takes a 1200 cam chain tensioner also. I have had the time to do either one of my oilheads but hear it helps a lot to quiet the valve train noise especially at start up.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
True, but it's the left side that is the notorious rattler; the right side retains its oil while the left drains out when the engine is shut off. Start with the obvious and easy.
Not saying that he doesn't have worn rods - nobody here has looked at them first-hand - but note that only one of my previous questions actually got answered...
Rogerfe, what's the mileage on the engine? It wouldn't make a lot of sense to do a lot of rework without really verifying the root cause of the noise(s) first. Also, if you're coming off a different brand, you may just not be "used to" the "typical" noise of the BMW valve train.
If it's a high-mileage unit, or if somebody revved the engine during start-up - before the oil has had a real chance to build up circulation & pressure - it is possible that a cam chain guide is worn or damaged; also more likely on the left side.
Not saying that he doesn't have worn rods - nobody here has looked at them first-hand - but note that only one of my previous questions actually got answered...
Rogerfe, what's the mileage on the engine? It wouldn't make a lot of sense to do a lot of rework without really verifying the root cause of the noise(s) first. Also, if you're coming off a different brand, you may just not be "used to" the "typical" noise of the BMW valve train.
If it's a high-mileage unit, or if somebody revved the engine during start-up - before the oil has had a real chance to build up circulation & pressure - it is possible that a cam chain guide is worn or damaged; also more likely on the left side.
the bike has 44k on it. i have only had 2 bikes and they were both oilheads and both a bit noisy, which i understand is common. but i don't mind putting in a little effort if i can make it hum. it seems that if it is the/a pushrod it's not that difficult or costly. but of course, if it won't make a bit of difference then i should not do it? thoughts?
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
At 44K, I can't imagine that the rods are worn unless there is actually a defect (in one, not likely "all") or a really poor oil has been used.
While a pushrod R&R isn't too hard, I stand by my earlier statements - start with the obvious and known issues.
The left-side cam chain tensioner is a real and well-known issue that many of us have upgraded; and yes it quiets things down quite a bit (mostly at start-up). Some of us (including me) have also seen worn or damaged chain guides (again, especially on the left); next time you have the valve covers off, shine a flashlight down the tunnel and you can inspect it.
(and another possibility responded to!)
While a pushrod R&R isn't too hard, I stand by my earlier statements - start with the obvious and known issues.
The left-side cam chain tensioner is a real and well-known issue that many of us have upgraded; and yes it quiets things down quite a bit (mostly at start-up). Some of us (including me) have also seen worn or damaged chain guides (again, especially on the left); next time you have the valve covers off, shine a flashlight down the tunnel and you can inspect it.
(and another possibility responded to!)
gsaddict
Pepperfool
They don't wear at all that I have ever seen.
What happens is the steel ends are press fit into to the aluminum body and on some, one end loosens up (why? I don't know) That is the source of the noise and only shows up when the engine is hot.
Once loose, the aluminum surface will hammer and valve clearance will widen over time.
Confirming this noise source is not easy and eliminating other possible sources (like end play) should be done first.
In the 2 cases I have come across only 1 end was loose out of all 8 ends.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Interesting, thanks! Why is probably a combination of manufacturing tolerances (inserting a "thin" end into a "wide" rod) and heat cycling.
This is another confirmation of why I actually TRACK which valves I adjust on my own bike - if one particular valve needs frequent attention, that's a sure sign that something is amiss.
I keep a page in my logbook JUST for valve checks - mileage, date, and which valve(s) got adjusted, and whether it was tight, OK, or loose. If anybody else is as anal as me, here's the template you can copy.
View attachment Valve Adj Template.doc
This is another confirmation of why I actually TRACK which valves I adjust on my own bike - if one particular valve needs frequent attention, that's a sure sign that something is amiss.
I keep a page in my logbook JUST for valve checks - mileage, date, and which valve(s) got adjusted, and whether it was tight, OK, or loose. If anybody else is as anal as me, here's the template you can copy.
View attachment Valve Adj Template.doc
