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R1100RT-Checking the front ball-joint, how do you do it?

dieselyoda

Active member
Last summer, slow speed, about 20mph, I curbed my front wheel on a man-hole cover flange. It was a good thump and my bike definitely noticed and complained. I stopped, checked all the usual stuff, tire for gouges, rim being bent and steering all OK. Seemed OK. The next ride, higher speeds, some twists and turns, the steering felt heavy as in needing to hold counter steer more than before. This was really noticeable at acceleration on an apex.

I've been through the front end a few times now and I think there isn't a real problem except the bike doesn't seem to handle as well as it should. I followed the old rule, complaints in the front are almost always from the rear. Everything seems fine in the rear, smooth, nothing loose. The front seems fine as well.

I would think that if I had a steering head bearing dented and starting to spall, I would feel it but I can't. My next thought takes me to the ball-joint. It is just a semi-spherical bearing and if I dented that, I should feel it, I would think. My thought is that the ball joint is unloaded when on the center stand and therefore, feels good. I wonder what it's like loaded.

I will replace the steering head bearings and the front wheel bearings because that sounds like a reasonable and relatively inexpensive and the ball joint isn't that much money but before I open my wallet, is there a way to check the ball-joint?
 
From the OE CD (not that it helps much)

Checking friction at ball joint/angular-
contact ball bearing

-Raise the motorcycle on its main (centre) stand,
make sure front wheel is clear of the ground.
-Measure the breakaway moment to left and right
from the central position of the handlebar using
friction meter, BMW No. 00 2 570.

Note: To determine the friction value, increase torque very slowly

Friction value:
Measure at room temperature (above 20 ?C/68?F)
Nominal value: .................................. 1.0 ... 2.0 Nm

..........................................................................................

IMO any looseness (play) would warrant replacement.

If you replace:

.............................................................................................
Tightening torque:
Ball joint to slider tube bridge
(apply Never Seeze to thread) .................... 230 Nm
 
Checking friction at ball joint/angular-
contact ball bearing

-Raise the motorcycle on its main (centre) stand,
make sure front wheel is clear of the ground.
-Measure the breakaway moment to left and right
from the central position of the handlebar using
friction meter, BMW No. 00 2 570.

Note: To determine the friction value, increase torque very slowly

Friction value:
Measure at room temperature (above 20 ?C/68?F)
Nominal value: .................................. 1.0 ... 2.0 Nm

..........................................................................................

IMO any looseness (play) would warrant replacement.

If you replace:

.............................................................................................
Tightening torque:
Ball joint to slider tube bridge
(apply Never Seeze to thread) .................... 230 Nm

Which tells me to take the bike to a dealer and have the dealer use Friction meter, BMW No. 00 2 570.

While I dislike the need for special tools it looks like this one might be hard to fake.
 
Which tells me to take the bike to a dealer and have the dealer use Friction meter, BMW No. 00 2 570.

While I dislike the need for special tools it looks like this one might be hard to fake.

Thinking out loud here.......I wonder how many dealers would actually have this tool in their crib?
 
Assuming for a moment that my dealer had the tool and I wanted to burn the cash to pay his labor charge, which would be equal to the cost of a new ball-joint, I'm still checking it unloaded.

For sure, any movement would be a real concern and any signs of seizure, you don't need a gauge for that, would be reason enough to replace it. I think that what I'm reading is that there is no good way to check the ball joint when it's loaded.
 
When I dinged my front wheel on a chunk of junk in the road, the front wheel bearings definitely got narfed too - you could feel the rough spot when spinning the wheel. New bearings were not cheap (yes I went with the BMW parts instead of looking for an equivalent).

Even if the ball & joint is OK, they still need a coat of grease once in a while.
 
When I dinged my front wheel on a chunk of junk in the road, the front wheel bearings definitely got narfed too - you could feel the rough spot when spinning the wheel. New bearings were not cheap (yes I went with the BMW parts instead of looking for an equivalent).

Even if the ball & joint is OK, they still need a coat of grease once in a while.

Ok, I'll bite........................How do you go about greasing the ball joint???
 
This is what I'm taking from these posts:

Check the ball-joint by the dealer, if they have the tool, $140.00 CDN.
Take the ball joint apart to try to grease it, my cost, time+not knowing if I still have a problem=worthless
Replace the ball joint and still not know if it is a problem, part $120.00 USD+ my time(6 beers max)=one less concern.

Summary, if you think you MIGHT have a problem with the ball joint, replace it.
 
Check the ball-joint by the dealer, if they have the tool, $140.00 CDN.
Take the ball joint apart to try to grease it, my cost, time+not knowing if I still have a problem=worthless
Replace the ball joint and still not know if it is a problem, part $120.00 USD+ my time(6 beers max)=one less concern.

Summary, if you think you MIGHT have a problem with the ball joint, replace it.

You are on the right track.
 
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