getting the details

Hello. I am a new BMW owner (since May) and a very recent BMWMOA member (2 weeks).

Okay, since that is out in the open here it goes:

I hope to do a good amount of "working" on my R75/6 myself. I am an aspiring gearhead, but lack a large amount of time behind the wrench. Given this, should I plan to take my bike to a "professional" to winterize and ready the bike for next year? I know this may be a bit premature, but I have to plan to either get help, or learn what I need to do.

Also, I have been looking for a nice quick way to clean the bike (without hauling out the bucket and hose). This would be nice to keep 'er shiny in between the weekly baths. Any tips? Like moto wet whipes? haha

Thanks

Cleaning the bike

There is a product made by honda called spray cleaner and polish. It is in a black can, and works really well. Just spray it on and wipe it off. Get yourself one of the illustrated manuals that are available for your motorcycle. They are easy to follow and will give you tips that will help you become a gearhead or will let you know what jobs are best left to the dealer.

Thanks.

I have a Clymer manual now, is there another brand I shoul dbe looking into for the bike?

Join the Airheads and get on the AirList...

Airheads Beemer Club

I didn't bother winterizing my bike last year. There are too many nice riding days in the winter. But it did end up sitting for a few months due to my laziness. I kept the gas in the tank (adding fuel stabilizer would have helped) and also charged the battery once a month. In the spring, change the oil, charge the battery and go.

There is also good tech info at www.ibmwr.org.

As for winterizing, you will read advice from all over the map on that. In this part of the country, I usually get to ride once or twice per month year-round, but if I know it'll be longer I put it away clean, get if off the tires (or move it occasionally to avoid flat spots), add fuel stabilizer, cover the airbox to keep critters out (DAMHIK), keep the battery charged, and change the oil in the spring (or before and after, if it makes you feel good).

You will see winterizing advice ranging from 'just park it out of the way' to 'do a complete tear-down and polish every part'. For instance, I've read that you don't need fuel stabilizer any more because it takes 6-9 months for today's fuel to degrade. I use the stuff anyway because it's cheaper than worrying. Most storage advice is probably like that.

So, I guess it all comes down to my level of anxiety and neurosis regarding my bike. I will keep that in mind as I prepare for the upcoming BMW hibernation period.

Thanks.

Fuel stabilizer...

Haven't tried using fuel stabilizer, but with my gas sitting for a couple of months without anything, it still started fine. It didn't run as well as it does with fresh gas (felt a little down on power, and would miss or stall every now and then). Once I emptied that tank and re-filled with fresh gas, everything was back to normal. Not contradicting the 6-9 month thing, just offering up my own experience.

Next year, I'll either add fuel stabilizer, drain the tank in the spring and put it in the cage and refill the bike's tank, or my prefered option: RIDE MORE OFTEN!

I'm inclined to leave the tank as full as I can over the winter after seeing the inside of a gas tank that had sit for 20 years partially full. The tank was in great shape where the gas had been (no air to rust the tank) and severely rusted where there was no gas.

I've lived 30 miles from your location for 17 years and driven my motorcycles periodically through the winter over all these years. You have to know when there is ice on the road and where the sand truck has been. But I've never had to winterize a motorcycle yet here in eastern Kansas. Even if you don't ride for a month, roll it out on the driveway and crank it up. Let it run long enough to get the oil good and hot and charge the battery. You don't have to drive to Denver and back, but there will be many days when you can drive to Engle Motors in Kansas City, about 40 miles east of Lawrence. This ain't California, but it isn't Fargo or Duluth either.

Well, I can attest to it not being Fargo, but I have no frame of reference for CA.

Thanks for the input.

So, I take it that you do not opt for the storage insurance on your machine? I think my insurance plan forces me to not ride the bike for 3-4 months. Is this not worth the saved money here in KS (or other 4 season climates)?

I've never heard of "storage insurance". I keep my motorcycle insured for driving year-round. I think in this state if you drop coverage for any reason you are supposed to go to DMV and declare the vehicle "non-operational". I don't do that, in any case. If I have ever dropped coverage, I've always kept "comprehensive" on it in the event of fire or theft. Home insurance tends not to cover motor vehicles, even when stored within the walls of the home.

Yeah, this coverage will "cover" the machine for 12 months, but it has a lower rate as long as I agree not to ride it during the predetermined time frame (on memory I think it is Nov-Feb). I think that it saved me around $50 a year.

So, I am trying to decide if it is worthwhile to renew for next year.

Part-time insurance

Airacobra said:

I've never heard of "storage insurance".

Click to expand...

Over the years I've seen policies that switch to only fire and theft from Nov 1 thru April 1 or Dec 1 thru Mar 1. My current policy says something like Occasional Use during the winter but not primary transportation. Whatever that means. After Dec 1st I ride before the snow and ice arrives. After that I wait for the street sweepers or a heck of a rain.

MarkF

Thanks for the post. I will double check the policy to make sure that everthing is in order.

I guess that I will have to judge if I think the storage option is worthwhile once I see what the winter months are like here in KS.

If you really really really have to store it over the winter (I don't! ), then at a bare minimum you should make sure that your gas tank is completely full to avoid rust and charge your battery once a month. Stabil (or equivalent) in the gas is excellent if possible - if not, siphon most of it out in the spring to put it in your cage and make your first stop the gas station for fresh go-juice!

Personally I would change my oil BEFORE storage. Used oil contains lots of corrosives - I would rather have fresh stuff in my crankcase over the winter.

I am of no help on cleaning tips. Weekly! Wow, I'm impressed!

P.S. If you change your oil filter and you have not heard about the $2000 o-ring, I would suggest doing a couple of searches on the tech sites for more information. When you remove your filter, make a note of the order and placement of any o-rings, gaskets and shims. Incorrect reassembly = no oil pressure = engine failure. The correct assembly may be different depending on years and models?

A wealth of wrenching information can be found here...
http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/techindex.htm

Thanks for the info.

I will doing some of the dirty work this weekend. My hope is that not too much damage has been hidden under 30 years of dirt.

Thanks again.