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Need starter relay for '73 R75/5
- Thread starter DrPaul
- Start date
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- Tags
- starter relay
lmo1131
New member
shandeland
Club President
jad01
New member
Agreed. And darn hard to beat $10 bucks. And he'll get it right the first time.
barron_williams
Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
DrPaul
DrPaul
Thanks!
Starter relay ordered from Moto Elekrik. Saved about $100 over OEM. Just finished complete overhaul of carbs; pair was mismatched (64/32/12 and /13) according to the Bing Agency, stating that /13 and /14 were the stock carbs for this model. My plan is to get it running and sort out the major systems. If no big problems are discovered will spiff her up and ride a while. The headlight bucket and chrome trim ring is knackered up a bit; looks like a PO may have had a fairing on the bike. That's about the only cosmetic issue I've found. Of course, new tires will be needed. Front brake light switch was missing and I haven't been able to locate one yet. I have a Clymer's from my R90/6 restoration a few years back. It's OK but I rely more on you guys for the best info. Thanks again!
Starter relay ordered from Moto Elekrik. Saved about $100 over OEM. Just finished complete overhaul of carbs; pair was mismatched (64/32/12 and /13) according to the Bing Agency, stating that /13 and /14 were the stock carbs for this model. My plan is to get it running and sort out the major systems. If no big problems are discovered will spiff her up and ride a while. The headlight bucket and chrome trim ring is knackered up a bit; looks like a PO may have had a fairing on the bike. That's about the only cosmetic issue I've found. Of course, new tires will be needed. Front brake light switch was missing and I haven't been able to locate one yet. I have a Clymer's from my R90/6 restoration a few years back. It's OK but I rely more on you guys for the best info. Thanks again!
Dr.Paul, I'd like to offer the info that my 1973, R75/5 has 64/32/9 and 10 carburetors on it. I am the third owner and confident of the ownership history from the previous owner. That bike was sold at C&D BMW in Freeport IL., and owned in the same family until I acquired it.
Additionally, every other 750 I have owned (/5 and/6) also had the /9 and /10 carbs.
I once supplied a set of /11,/12 carbs from an R90/6 to a friend to put on an R75/6 that had been derelicted. His 750 ran fine with them on it.
Additionally, every other 750 I have owned (/5 and/6) also had the /9 and /10 carbs.
I once supplied a set of /11,/12 carbs from an R90/6 to a friend to put on an R75/6 that had been derelicted. His 750 ran fine with them on it.
DrPaul
DrPaul
Update on project.
Greetings and hope all enjoyed a pleasant Christmas holiday. Here are the tasks completed thus far:
The center stand has the right leg broken off. I need a replacement. Anyone out there have one they would sell or know of a used part source? Also, the return to idle when the throttle is blipped is pretty slow. Would slide piston return springs help that? Thanks!
Greetings and hope all enjoyed a pleasant Christmas holiday. Here are the tasks completed thus far:
- Starter relay from Motorad Elektrik; works great! Thanks for the tip on this source for electrical parts.
- Carbs chemical and ultrasonically cleaned plus completely overhauled including main jets, needles, floats and float valve seats, O-rings, seals, etc.
- Oil pan dropped, cleaned and new gaskets installed. Fresh oil, filter. Renewed air filter and spark plugs.
- Left side choke cable replaced (wire broken).
- New fuel lines, filters. Petcocks work fine after good cleaning.
The center stand has the right leg broken off. I need a replacement. Anyone out there have one they would sell or know of a used part source? Also, the return to idle when the throttle is blipped is pretty slow. Would slide piston return springs help that? Thanks!
DrPaul -
The forum rules don't permit trying to buy/sell items directly in the forum. But there are other options. Maybe someone will PM you with some information and you can work that off line. You can look through the Flea Market or post your own wanted-to-buy item. Of course, there is craigslist, IBMWR, etc. As for used parts sources, look into that category contained in the link in my signature line.
The forum rules don't permit trying to buy/sell items directly in the forum. But there are other options. Maybe someone will PM you with some information and you can work that off line. You can look through the Flea Market or post your own wanted-to-buy item. Of course, there is craigslist, IBMWR, etc. As for used parts sources, look into that category contained in the link in my signature line.
lmo1131
New member
Did you carefully check the diaphragms for any minute holes? Did you get the butterflies back in - facing the correct direction (assuming you pulled them out to replace the o-ring on the throttle shaft(s)).
Necessary Bing reading > http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/earlybingR75CV.htm
I'm not sure how you could rig a return spring on CV carbs, but synching the carbs should take care of it; at least it made a difference for me. But there are several possible suspects for a slow throttle return. You might want to consider replacing the throttle cables; doing a clean and lube on the handlebar perch; old grease and grime can make of a sluggish return. With regard to those throttle shaft(s) - I have found that a tiny dab of lithium grease on the shaft (where the o-ring rides) aids throttle return quite a bit; when compressed by the throttle shaft hole, the o-ring can add a lot of resistance to the shaft rotating freely.
If it looks like this, disassemble and thoroughly clean every thing up. Reassemble and lube. And don't use anywhere near this amount of lubricant.
Personally, I prefer "dry" graphite lubricants vs. "grease"; doesn't attract grit and grime. I inspect it a little more frequently, but have never experienced any problems using graphite.
Read through this > http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/control/index.htm
1074
Active member
Other stuff
You're going in the right direction on the carbs. Yes, the slide springs will fit on the older model carbs.
If your centerstand is in good shape other than the tang being broken off, you can fix that pretty easily. Get a piece of 1/4in. round stock from Home Depot or Lowes. Grind the area that the tang was attached to the stand (flat). Drill straight through with a 1/4in. drill. Weld both sides. Install the centerstand. With a little patience and a propane torch you can duplicate the bend going up and around the muffler. Cut the excess off, paint it and be done. Just remember that that tang is used only for dropping the stand to the ground. NOT for use when putting the bike onto the stand.
You're going in the right direction on the carbs. Yes, the slide springs will fit on the older model carbs.
If your centerstand is in good shape other than the tang being broken off, you can fix that pretty easily. Get a piece of 1/4in. round stock from Home Depot or Lowes. Grind the area that the tang was attached to the stand (flat). Drill straight through with a 1/4in. drill. Weld both sides. Install the centerstand. With a little patience and a propane torch you can duplicate the bend going up and around the muffler. Cut the excess off, paint it and be done. Just remember that that tang is used only for dropping the stand to the ground. NOT for use when putting the bike onto the stand.
DrPaul
DrPaul
Thanks for the response. And apologies to all for soliciting parts on the forum. Didn't realize that was taboo. Anyway, the diaphragms are new and butterfly plates are installed correctly. Throttle cables are by no means new but cleaned up well and are not the problem. Bowden system was a mess but that has been cleaned and re-lubed. Throttle shaft return to idle stops is brisk and complete; just takes longer than I would expect for RPMs to settle back to idle. When I ordered my carb parts from Bing Agency, I asked about slide return springs and Fay indicated they were not standard on this carb model but "could be added if necessary". I was wondering if slower response was a reason to consider doing that.
pglaves
#13338
You are quite accurately describing the symptoms of a sticking mechanical ignition advance mechanism.
lmo1131
New member
Remembering, of course, to disconnect the battery before removing the front engine cover ... . if you're going in to check the advance mech.
Here's the timing advance unit maintenance write-up from Ausherman's site > http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/advance/index.htm
When you replace the unit after cleaning, just remember to go lightly when tightening the 6mm nut. If you snap that "stud" off you'll be looking for a new cam shaft... it doesn't require "blue torquing".
DrPaul
DrPaul
Thanks, Paul. I will check that out.
DrPaul
DrPaul
The tang is missing but so is the lower curved section of the right side leg. Rusted away just below the cross member. I'll pull it off and see if it can be repaired but a replacement makes more sense. They are still available new but > $200!
jad01
New member
As Kurt mentioned (post #11) you might check with any of the salvage yards in the Resources and Links thread to see if they have a used centerstand, or are willing to keep an eye out for one for you. I am partial to Mikey at Martindale Motorcycle Works (http://martindalemotorcycleworks.com/index.html or 512-357-2842) and Joshua Buck at Partshaus (562-254-0452). I think I recall that Mikey sells refurbished/repaired ones that are better (stronger) than new. You might keep an eye on the IBMWR marketplace as well (http://marketplace.ibmwr.org).
