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/5 trans removal

kjmcd13

New member
Anybody know a good site for instructions on /5 LWB trans removal that isn't Clymer or other manual with other models mixed in?
 
Hey, OP - I sent you a PM. It contains a step by step for an R100 trans removal. I'm not posting it here because I didn't write it and I'm not certain who the author is (I think it was Tom Cutter). I don't want to post somebody else's work without giving them credit.
 
/5 trans

Michael, thanks for the stuff from Cutter. I was looking at the Chris Harris videos today. Will get started this weekend
 
Hey, OP - I sent you a PM. It contains a step by step for an R100 trans removal. .... I don't want to post somebody else's work without giving them credit.

Kurt helped me find the original source of the gearbox removal instructions that I used on my 1984 R100. Tom Cutter is a fabulous source of Airhead knowledge and a great mechanic, but he wasn't the source for these particular DIY R&R steps.
Here is the link:

http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r100tic.html#gearbox

Note: The instructions in the above link include steps for removing the rear wheel and releasing the rear shocks (steps 13-15). I did not do those steps; there was enough room to remove the gearbox just by unhooking the swing arm.

He also has a link for work done on an R80GS paralever bike, so if you have a later mono-shock Airhead you might go here instead: http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r80gs.html#gearbox
 
Did the LWB /5 have the neutral switch connect on the backside of the transmission or underneath? On the late /2s and I thought on the early /5s, the neutral switch was under a small plastic cover accessed on the aft side of the transmission. Remove that plastic cover and you'll see a small screw slot...turn that CCW and pull the wire out of the bottom of the small housing.

If the neutral switch is really underneath the transmission, they should be simple spade terminals which come off with easy tug.
 
1973 R75/5 LWB Neutral Switch Location

Did the LWB /5 have the neutral switch connect on the backside of the transmission or underneath? On the late /2s and I thought on the early /5s, the neutral switch was under a small plastic cover accessed on the aft side of the transmission. Remove that plastic cover and you'll see a small screw slot...turn that CCW and pull the wire out of the bottom of the small housing.

If the neutral switch is really underneath the transmission, they should be simple spade terminals which come off with easy tug.

Here's where mine was. It's on the back side and uses a single wire.

<a title="Transmission Neutral Switch Wire by ScooterScum_52, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/10929160734/"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3804/10929160734_ca429ed429_z.jpg" alt="Transmission Neutral Switch Wire" width="480" height="640" /></a>
Transmission Neutral Switch Wire Routing Underneath the Frame

<a title="Tightening Transmission Neutral Switch Screw by ScooterScum_52, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/10929160584/"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5526/10929160584_468c46a0d0_z.jpg" alt="Tightening Transmission Neutral Switch Screw" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Tightening Transmission Neutral Switch Screw
 
Trans is out

Boxed and ready to send to Tom Cutter. Not too complicated. Any opinions on drive shaft bolt reuse or replacement? Splines looked dry but good. Thanks for the help.
 
If it were easy to replace the boot later if you found an issue with it, I would reuse it. But since you quite a few steps to get a new boot in there, I'd replace it. I hate having to repeat some work when it could be easily avoided. Price is around $25. Seems reasonable.
 
Kurt, I agree with you about replacing the boot, but he actually asked about the driveshaft bolts. On my /6, I discovered the older bolts which were long enough to accomodate split-ring lock washers. Split-ring lockwashers have been a bad idea for a long time. I got rid of those and ordered the shorter bolts (P/N 26111242297) which I will install with some Blue Loctite. You could cut the end off the old bolts and re-use them without the lockwashers, but why take a chance on them since the four new bolts only cost $6.16?

Ray
 
Kurt, I agree with you about replacing the boot, but he actually asked about the driveshaft bolts.

What...you're on me for missing an "l" and instead seeing an "o"? :stick My bad....I completely missed that. Better get my glasses checked!!

I also agree, that replacing the bolts are a good idea, certainly you don't want to reuse the long bolts with lock washers. Snowbum mentions that if they thread back into the flange easily with fingers, they're probably OK to reuse. A repair shop would almost surely replace them for insurance reasons. Using blue Loctite is a good idea, although putting the right amount of torque on the bolt is good enough. That's what's hard...getting the right kind of adapter with a torque wrench on the bolt. I've done several sets now using Loctite and a good grunt with my tool kit wrench.
 
Using blue Loctite is a good idea, although putting the right amount of torque on the bolt is good enough. That's what's hard...getting the right kind of adapter with a torque wrench on the bolt. I've done several sets now using Loctite and a good grunt with my tool kit wrench.
I've gone to the trouble before of making adapters to let me use my torque wrench on some hard to reach places. I cut a box end wrench in half and ground the ends to fit some cheap crow's foot 3/8" drive open ends. Then I got a friend to weld them for me.





If you keep the adapter at a 90 degree angle to the body of the wrench, you can read the value directly off the wrench with no calculations needed. Like this:



But for this job, I have one of the adapters coming from Jeff Trapp at Northwoods Airheads. It's only $16.50 and looks like it should work great. Plus it's ready-made for the job.
 

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fxray -

All good information...I think from time to time that has been brought up but good to have it repeated for those that haven't seen it. Thanks for showing it!

Also be sure and check out http://cycleworks.net for great collection of tools that perform the same functions.
 
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