RT Ergonomics

Just got back from a 1500 mile trip to Yellowstone + Tetons, etc. I am now determined more than ever to make my RT comfortable for my aging bod.

1. A couple of days ago I mickey-moused a mod to raise the front of my seat so I now sit level. I don't like sliding forward and having, uh, my 'boys' crowded.

2. I've ordered bar up-and-back blocks of aluminum from Illium that should give me a comfortable reach when sitting more upright.

3. I need to lower my foot pegs and kits are available for that. I'd sorta like floorboards like on my Harley but the cylinders won't let my feet go forward enough ... same issue on my Ural. I am resisting engine guards and highway pegs because I'd be doing the splits but I may have to go that route to get the comfort my right knee demands (old snow skiing accident).

Am I the only one who loves the RT but isn't keen on the mild sport riding position? Everything is Ok until I'm in the saddle for 4 or 5 hours.

Norm

I installed a "Comfort" Heated Seat and an Alaska Leather Sheepskin on mine and that improved things a little, but I'm starting to think BMW might stand for Bust My Walnuts!

2008 RT Peg lowers, bar risers, Corbin seat, taller windshield. I can and have ridden all day no issues. Stops are mostly just to get fuel. 6'6" 275lb

Since those mods 400 mile days are easy, 800 mile days are about my limit, but mostly just a focus issue not a comfort issue.

I've done the bar backs and peg lowering kit too. I have a Calsci XL windscreen too. The seat is the only shortcoming left. There are lots of options, but since I do mostly commuting now, I haven't replaced it yet, I just put up with it. I've done as far as 780 miles in a day with the stock seat. Never again. 6'5 34" inseam and north of 22 stone.

I went for the Corbin firmer is better approach. My engineering mind was thinking after the initial ride I had made a huge mistake as the seat is hard. But after breakin it performs as advertised. I am only good for about 200 on the factory marshmallow.

I have crossed the country twice plus much of Canada, it just keeps getting better.

Norms 427 said:

Just got back from a 1500 mile trip to Yellowstone + Tetons, etc. I am now determined more than ever to make my RT comfortable for my aging bod.

1. A couple of days ago I mickey-moused a mod to raise the front of my seat so I now sit level. I don't like sliding forward and having, uh, my 'boys' crowded.

2. I've ordered bar up-and-back blocks of aluminum from Illium that should give me a comfortable reach when sitting more upright.

3. I need to lower my foot pegs and kits are available for that. I'd sorta like floorboards like on my Harley but the cylinders won't let my feet go forward enough ... same issue on my Ural. I am resisting engine guards and highway pegs because I'd be doing the splits but I may have to go that route to get the comfort my right knee demands (old snow skiing accident).

Am I the only one who loves the RT but isn't keen on the mild sport riding position? Everything is Ok until I'm in the saddle for 4 or 5 hours.

Norm

Click to expand...

Bar backs, Lowering pegs, Vstream Shield & Kontour seat for me. I don't feel the need for Highway pegs or floor boards. Personally I don't think that the riding position of the RT is really compatible with those.

Barbacks, Suburban peg lowering kit, Sargent saddle and BeemerBuddy grip pads for me. I haven't replaced the windscreen but will probably within the next couple of years as mine is getting some chips in it. I regularly do 10-12 hour, 500-600 mile days, often back to back, with no problem. Longest day last year was 800+ miles, same setup but with stock saddle and a BeadRider. That was do-able but painful. 6'-0", 32" inseam, 205 lbs.

Over the years I've debated cylinder bars and highway pegs but decided that the fairing would probably hit my leg, so I haven't done them. I make it a point to get off and walk around every hour or hour and a half, and use that to stretch my legs. I have been seen to stand on the pegs for a while, GS style, late in the day ...

JayJay

jayjay said:

I have been seen to stand on the pegs for a while, GS style, late in the day ...

JayJay

Click to expand...

+1

Any time I'm below about 35 mph (and it's safe to do so) I do this. That said, heading south from St. Paul after the MOA Rally I looked in the LH rear-view mirror and one of the riders behind was standing at 65mph.

cyclinder guards and highway pegs

All of the suggestions about are valid. Some are rider specific. Don't think the highway pegs will necessarily be uncomfortable, I have a 2007 RT with Tourtech bars and Ilium pegs. During multiple 2000 mile plus trips and 500 mile plus days they have been invaluable, (old motocross knee). Also have Barbacks, Sargent seat, and CE Baileys windshield. All help.

As a side note I agree that standing up occasionally, at speed, is doable. That is if you are comfortable standing up on a moving motorcycle. Don't try it unless your are.

If you are not, borrow a dirt bike until you are.

lbarbee said:

I went for the Corbin firmer is better approach. My engineering mind was thinking after the initial ride I had made a huge mistake as the seat is hard. But after breakin it performs as advertised. I am only good for about 200 on the factory marshmallow.

Click to expand...

Is it lower than the stock seat? Any Corbins I have seen look lower.

ponch1 said:

Is it lower than the stock seat? Any Corbins I have seen look lower.

Click to expand...

I had mine made 1inch higher than standard so that I could leave the seat at the low position. I knew I would only go up, but it was mostly a guess. However my riding partner has a standard Corbin and it seems pretty close to standard height. It is considerably wider, so if you are vertically challenged, it will make that worse. At 6'6", 34" inseam, and seat made 1" over, it is perfect. If I had it to do over again I would take the standard Corbin and just use the normal seat adjustment.

ExGMan said:

+1

Any time I'm below about 35 mph (and it's safe to do so) I do this. That said, heading south from St. Paul after the MOA Rally I looked in the LH rear-view mirror and one of the riders behind was standing at 65mph.

Click to expand...

Sometimes on the highway if I'm riding alone, I will stretch by sitting on the pillion seat for a minute or so.

Sounds like you have all the bases covered. I've installed a peg lowering kit and bar backs. I'm also running a larger windscreen and a Sargent seat. I've got the RT pretty well dialed in at this point.

Norms 427 said:

Just got back from a 1500 mile trip to Yellowstone + Tetons, etc. I am now determined more than ever to make my RT comfortable for my aging bod.

1. A couple of days ago I mickey-moused a mod to raise the front of my seat so I now sit level. I don't like sliding forward and having, uh, my 'boys' crowded.

2. I've ordered bar up-and-back blocks of aluminum from Illium that should give me a comfortable reach when sitting more upright.

3. I need to lower my foot pegs and kits are available for that. I'd sorta like floorboards like on my Harley but the cylinders won't let my feet go forward enough ... same issue on my Ural. I am resisting engine guards and highway pegs because I'd be doing the splits but I may have to go that route to get the comfort my right knee demands (old snow skiing accident).

Am I the only one who loves the RT but isn't keen on the mild sport riding position? Everything is Ok until I'm in the saddle for 4 or 5 hours.

Norm

Click to expand...

Suburban foot peg lowering, Russell Saddle !! , Cee Bailey, Bar backs, Manicsalamander 1 lb. bar end weights with Beemer buddy grips made a big reduction in vibration. I'm 6'1" and shot full of arthritis, I did a 680 m. day last month.

Every manufacturer has their "test dummy," that is the standard human around which they design their ergonomics.

I'm 6-3 and for the most part have felt BMW cars never had quite enough headroom for me. I may be slightly taller than average in the USA but am pretty sure I'm moreso compared to the average German.

On my old R100RS I was too tall to see under the windscreen to view the clock and voltmeter. Clearly that wasn't the way the bike was designed for BMW's "average" rider.

Standards are changing all the time, but I'm pretty sure a few things remain true ...

BMW's bike test dummy is younger than the average USA BMW rider.
BMW's bike test dummy is a little smaller than the average USA BMW rider.
BMW's bike test dummy is not obese.
BMW's are designed for riding on a higher percentage of roads with curves than exists in the USA--consequently I think, seats are designed more for moving around on.
Things are closer together in Germany than in the USA and there is less "iron butt" riding.

Yes BMW seats and windscreens don't "fit" lots of us ... but that's because they weren't designed for us. To criticize this is silly--just fix it.

I cannot say enough good about Russell Saddles - I have never had the problems you mentioned with my Russells (one for the last two bikes). My current bike came with bar risers and lower pegs. I had to take the bar risers off but have left the lower pegs on.

Sport touring

I've always felt the issue with RT's is they are designed to be sport touring, but a lot of American consumers buy them simply for touring, and then seem confused when the manufacturer makes sporty design decisions. I would submit that if one simply wants a touring bike it would make sense to strictly look in that genre. However, I understand that some touring bikes with all the bells and whistles may come at a cost and that the sport touring design may be a less expensive option, understandable. This consumer would in fact probably want to customize the bike to accommodate the touring aspect of the bike, also understandable. Complaining and criticizing BMW for maintaining a sport-touring saddle and ergonomics on a sport touring bike, confusing, especially in light of the fact that BMW offers a touring option in their product line. Quick moto-biography: stock OEM R1200RT longest trip 953 miles in 17 hours and 43 minutes, butt, back, and bunion in pain for days afterwards. I'm not sure if any bike can make that distance in that environment pleasant. Riding is comfortable up to about 2 hours, after that back, forehead, and bunion start to hurt, none of which is really the bikes fault. 47 year old rider.