Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 24 of 24

Thread: newly acquired '58 r50... help with starting

  1. #16
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    20,645
    Quote Originally Posted by ramoneo View Post
    ..and the other one (not pictured yet) is

    '61 r50/2 engine on a '66 r60/2 frame
    For grins, check the orphan frame/engine list and see if there are matches for your situation:

    http://bmwvmca.org/joomla/index.php?...=317&Itemid=42
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  2. #17
    Registered User ramoneo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    18
    No luck, but those odds are 1%. Maybe I'll list it here in hopes of someday being reunited.
    '57 r50
    '61 r50/2
    '03 Ural GearUp
    '03 Indian Chief

  3. #18
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    20,645
    Quote Originally Posted by ramoneo View Post
    No luck, but those odds are 1%. Maybe I'll list it here in hopes of someday being reunited.
    I have access to that orphan list. If you want me to list your frame/engine, just let me know.

    The success rate hasn't been that great, but there have been a few bikes reunited over the years.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  4. #19
    RD'nNH&AZ rdhudson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Summer in Lakes Region of NH and winter in the Sonoran Desert of AZ
    Posts
    156
    I DON'T want to start an oil thread but I wish to pass on some great advice I got from a prominent /2 author and restorer. Others may chime in. You can research this and entertain yourself all winter.

    For your 1957 bike:
    1. Go to your local auto parts store. Perhaps NAPA
    2. Buy 5 quarts of Amalie NON-DETURGENT 40W oil
    3. Order this ZDDP
    4. Replace oil in final drive and transmission with the 40W (no additive)
    5. Replace the engine oil with the 40W WITH recommended additive.

    The engine oil with additive will also be correct in the 61 engine but I would research the transmission and final drive oil for that one.

    Ride them
    2002 F650GS, 1998 R1100R 75th anniversary edition, 1983 R80RT (just sold), 1959 R60 (in restoration), Honda CT90
    If you must make a mistake, make a new one each time.

  5. #20
    Registered User ramoneo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by rdhudson View Post
    I DON'T want to start an oil thread but I wish to pass on some great advice I got from a prominent /2 author and restorer. Others may chime in. You can research this and entertain yourself all winter.

    For your 1957 bike:
    1. Go to your local auto parts store. Perhaps NAPA
    2. Buy 5 quarts of Amalie NON-DETURGENT 40W oil
    3. Order this ZDDP
    4. Replace oil in final drive and transmission with the 40W (no additive)
    5. Replace the engine oil with the 40W WITH recommended additive.

    The engine oil with additive will also be correct in the 61 engine but I would research the transmission and final drive oil for that one.

    Ride them
    From Vech's site, it says:

    Valvoline VR1 eng oil which has ZDDP
    CRC Sta Lube GL4 gear oil


    Do you feel Amalie with additive is a better choice?
    '57 r50
    '61 r50/2
    '03 Ural GearUp
    '03 Indian Chief

  6. #21
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    20,645
    I'll take a shot at what he was saying...it's the age old debate about non-detergent and detergent oil.

    In the "old" days, they had only non-detergent oil. Typically, after running the bike, all of the contaminants were stirred up but they settled to the bottom of the pan. Those types of oil didn't hold things in suspension. Thus, those contaminants didn't continue to circulate to get collected by the slingers. On routine occasions, the pan was dropped and the sludge was cleaned out. I've heard people like Duane Aushermans say that no one worried about slinger cleaning early on...they just rode the bikes for 80-100K miles before there was any thought to the slingers.

    Along comes detergent oil which probably does a better job of cleaning but also holds particulates in suspension so that a filter can pull them out. But the /2 has no filter, so now that it is in suspension, and doesn't settle to the pan, it's more likely to get into the slinger. Thus slinger cleaning every 30-50K miles.

    The other thought is that if the bike's previous life was all on non-detergent oil and now you use detergent oil, the new oil might pull all that stuff out and make it subject to the cleaners.

    My opinion is:

    - use a good quality oil with a good amount of ZDDP already built in...I don't put much hope in being a petroleum engineer and adding things myself
    - change the oil on a regular basis...maybe every 1000 miles
    - install several rare earth magnets in the oil pan
    - drop/clean the oil pan every so often
    - if you're worried about using a detergent oil now, run the oil one or two heat cycles and drop the oil, changing to fresh...all the bad stuff will be gone

    I figure by the time I can put 30K on my R69S it will be another 20-30 years...probably time for some other major maintenance anyway...or it might become someone else's problem!

    As for engine oil in the tranny and final drive, there might be some consideration for that. It depends on when/if the seals were replaced. BMW stated in service bulletins at which VINs the seals should have been changed at the factory which were compatible with Hypoid gear oil. The use of GL4 or GL5 is another whole debate...not sure I really have seen the issue play out in the life of these bikes...doesn't seem to be that big of an issue.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #22
    Registered User ramoneo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    - install several rare earth magnets in the oil pan
    .
    How about these:
    http://www.amazon.com/BYKES-Neodymiu...+earth+magnets

    If not, care to recommend?
    '57 r50
    '61 r50/2
    '03 Ural GearUp
    '03 Indian Chief

  8. #23
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    20,645
    Those appear to be similar to what I received from Vech. Sometimes they come as little bars. Certainly get 3-4 and put them around your oil pan...just be sure the don't interfere with the oil pickup because then the pan won't seal. If you have an aluminum pan (I do on my R25/2), they can be stuck to the top side of the oil pickup.

    You might also consider (if you don't have it already) a magnetic drain plug. That catches things that fall in the little crevice at the back of the pan.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  9. #24
    RD'nNH&AZ rdhudson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Summer in Lakes Region of NH and winter in the Sonoran Desert of AZ
    Posts
    156
    20774 captured the oil issue, thanks. So I would say Yes the Amalie is better because it is Non-deturgent, not because of the brand. The engine was built for that and unless you know the slingers were cleaned recently it is a safe soulution. The ZDDP is a must so the VR1 meets that requirement and is a wonderful product. Just remember if your bike has not had the slingers cleaned they will be full soon running detergent oil, as the centrifugal separators (slingers) will take out particulate matter very efficiently and fill up with it.... even in the 100, 1000 or more miles. Why risk? I can't see why I should ever want to go detergent as there is no oil filter to collect the particulate matter the detergents are designed to keep in suspension. It was an engine designed for a certain type oil and that oil is still available. As long as it is I will use it. Besides, how simple and elegant to have one oil for everything. Genius idea from the BMW engineers part! BTW these engines with non-deturgent oil and reasonable oil changes ran for 100,000 miles back in the day, (and I was a motorcycle mechanic in that day!) without slinger cleanings! They still will. I spoke with Vech at his open house in May 2013 about this and I came away with much insight and a belief it is good advice, but I am not speaking for him. Chris Betjemann suggested the specific products. Both know more than I do and have much more experience. We owe them both a lot. Buy Chris's book and shop for parts at Vech's, Thanks!
    2002 F650GS, 1998 R1100R 75th anniversary edition, 1983 R80RT (just sold), 1959 R60 (in restoration), Honda CT90
    If you must make a mistake, make a new one each time.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •