Electrical issue after installing Bob's Bar Bax.......1982 R100RS

I installed the Bar Bax from Bob' BMW today. It appeared the front screws were a lot longer than necessary, but I put them in to test the feel of the difference before getting too serious about that element. Turns out on the short test drive the left side rubbed through a set of wires and must have shorted something out because now the turn signals and volt meter do not operate. I found the suspected green wire that was worn though. It seemed to be the only suspect for a short. I taped it up. Now I need to get to the fuses. Most info points to them being in the headlight bucket, although Clymer's manual says they are under the seat. Do I have to remove the entire front fairing to get to the headlight? It seems everything on this bike requires half the bike to be disassembled in order to repair something that should be a simple fix. (The side stand for example. You have to take the exhaust off to get to that nut.) Anyway - any easy way to get to the fuses?

I like the new position of the bars as a result of this install and have shortened the offending fasteners.

Read this:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/headlightbucket.htm

I don't own an RS, but this is what I've always heard about getting to the fuses in the bucket.

My Haynes says that /6 and /7 up to 1984, the fuses are in the bucket. On other models it's either at the end of the tool tray, left side of the battery, or at the rear of the frame top tube.

Thank you.

The fuses are in the headlight.

Take off the outer fairing lens in front of the headlight,
remove the chrome headlight ring & lens, then you can access the fuses.

It's not hard!

Issue resolved. Thanks for all the assistance. Needed to replace one 8 amp fuse and the turn signal relay flasher. Access to the fuse area was easy. It should be as easy to change the oil filter, but that is another story. After a short run I am going to say I like the result of the Bar Bax install. Moves the bars up and closer to the rider as far as is allowed by the steering control stem. I did not need to redo the clutch cable, but found it wrapping around the odometer cable, found it easier the remove and reinstall that. A few adjustments to the angle of the bars and controls and I am back in business.
I am including a few pics.
One is a way I figured to keep the seat open while working on the bike....


The next two are of the actual devices that move the bar back.....





Thanks again. This place is GREAT!!