28L Top Case Disassembly Help - To Remove Lock Cylinder

I have in my possession a 28L Top Case with a lock cylinder and no key. The top is unlocked. I am trying to remove the lock cylinder so I can re-key it to my ignition.

I can not figure out how to remove the inner liner of the bottom section so I can attempt to remove the lock cylinder. I have removed the lid and all internal screws but can't figure out what my next step is. I have looked at the microfiche but it was no help. I would appreciate help from anyone who has been through this or knows what the heck I need to do.

Phil - in this video the guy discusses getting the cylinder out of the lock at about 17:00. He also discusses how to rekey to your existing key.

JayJay

jayjay said:

Phil - in this video the guy discusses getting the cylinder out of the lock at about 17:00. He also discusses how to rekey to your existing key.

JayJay

Click to expand...

Thanks as usual. Right now I need help getting to the lock cylinder. Not sure if the handle assembly comes off and if so how. I haven't gotten the inner liner of the lower assembly off yet. That tutorial is done on a 49L Top Case which is a different setup then this 28L.

Sorry I can't be more help. I don't have a BMW top case or else I'd figure it out.

For what it's worth: my son has a BMW 28L top case on his F800 and told me that his lock cylinder dropped out to parts unknown one day while he was riding down the road. So removing it can't be too difficult ...

JayJay

Ah, the old tutorial on how to do this is down. It's really pretty simple though and you don't have to disassemble the case. You need to open up the little button thingy that sits above the lock cylinder (highlighted in red):



From there, the trick is to tape a straightened paperclip to the end of a screw driver, and then bend the end into an L-shape. This you will put down that little hole to press in the pin that retains the lock cylinder in its hole. You can shine a small flashlight down there to see where it sits. You will also need a key or something in the lock barrel to help pull it out. I think it needs to be in the unlocked position for this to work, but it may need to be moved to the locked position.

In that case, try different keys until you find one that works (sometimes a BMW dealership has extra keys lying around for this). Out of three keys I found one that worked on mine which allowed me to remove the cylinder and re-key it to my key.

28L top case disassembly

I don't know if you ever got your answer, and I know I'm replying late to this thread. I just bought and received a 28l top case and I had to remove the key cylinder. Now, searching the forums and web left me with no information other than taking it completely apart. I tried making the little hacksaw tool, stopping by the locksmith and using their little special tools to no avail. Well, I tore right into it, removing all the screws and lid and then couldn't figure out why this thing wasn't coming apart! Alas....there are 2 lock nuts under the handle along with 2 other screws. Now once I got it apart, things just fell all to pieces! Which I thought at first wasn't all bad, well......let me tell you...whew, what a nightmare. Anyway, I got to the cylinder holder and there were some more screws to take out and then the spring then the whole holder and I could finally get to the retaining wafer. Putting all the stuff back together was a little trying. But...,here is the point of all this.....,

To take the top case apart, you only need to remove the 5 screws in the bottom of the inner liner, the 2 locking nuts under the handle as well as the 2 screws. Once the handle assembly is off of the case, there are 2 more screws that hold the pull cable / lock assembly. You do not need to remove these to separate the inner liner from the bottom.

I'm sorry I didn't think to take pictures while I was doing this, but if anyone has any questions, please message me and I will certainly be of some help.

I just took mine into Go AZ and they drilled it out and re-keyed it for the price of the new lock cylinder.

Man you guys are brave

I tried doing a self repair on a side case once... Big mistake. I watched the master mechanic, David of Pensacola BMW re-key the top case on the wife's 650 last month. Wow! I think the engines are a simple design compared to the engineering that goes into the hard cases.

Disassembly

I did take some pictures (as there are none to be found in my part of the internet.

The top is held on with 4 long screws. The inner lower liner can be taken apart, 1. by removing the 5 screws, and 2 on the inside, 2: by taking off the handle assembly 2 nuts, 2 screws, and then 2 more screws under the handle. The 7 screws under rubber bumpers do not have to be removed, as they hold the two locking assemblies. The latch for the rack needs to be open. And the front of the inner liner comes up first, as your get the lock assembly to clear, then the 2 handle studs.

Assembly was easiest for me putting the inner liner face down, insuring the rack latch pivots are aligned, and putting the outer lower cover on. Heres a few picture. There was no access for the lock cylinder to be removed from the top access. I had to use the paperclip trick to pull the tumbler.

Pictures are worth many words, so here are a few.

More

More 2

To remove the lock cylinder from the top case no disassembly of the case is needed.

You need a simple lock pick to disengage the 'locking wafer' in the lock cylinder and the cylinder will pull out. Some folks make their own pick and some use a bent paper clip. There are several youtube tutorials on the process. Removing the cylinder only takes a minute or two. If you are adept to the procedure, less than one minute.
Once cylinder is removed, wafers can be aligned for you ignition keys configuration.

Good luck with the re-key.

Disassembly

I should mention here that my disassembly was not caused by the need to rekey the lock. The internal mechanisms were binding (due to wd-40 and lots of accumulated dirt and debris)

The pictures are for reference for the next poor person that has to take one apart.

I also wanted to point out that my case did not have an access "to stick a screw driver into that hole" in hopes of releasing the tab from outside the lock. So plan on using the paperclip with the bent end to fre the lock.

One can just imagine the engineers sitting in their office after a lunch that included a good number of beers.
They're saying "Let's, just for fun, design this thing using the maximum number of parts. That'll keep the mechanics guessing!"

Hard to think there's truly a good reason for making it so complex.

Reminds me of the Laycock de Normanville overdrive unit.
I believe their company motto was "Why use 5 parts when 30 will do?"

Newly installed rekeyed lock cylinder in 28l case won't unlock and can't be removed

Full disclosure: This my first post ever on a forum so if I commit some breach of etiquette let me know....

Similar to the member who started this thread: I bought a used BMW 28L top case with a lock cylinder installed in the unlocked position, but with no key. After researching online I removed the lock cylinder using the paperclip in the keyslot push down on the inside of the locking wafer without much trouble. Excellent! I bought a new lock cylinder so that I would have all the combinations of wafers and assembled the new cylinder matching it to my ignition key - when I inserted the key into the prepared lock cylinder all wafers were flush with the bottom and top of the cylinder. I was careful to leave the slot just in front of the locking wafer empty. I then inserted the cylinder with the locking wafer depressed and facing up - the same as the direction on the one I removed. BUT the key won't turn and now I am not able to remove the cylinder (believe me I've tried for hours) using the aforementioned paperclip technique.

I resorted to trying to disassemble the interior of this case using the info in this thread (remove the 5 interior screws, the two locking nuts and screws under the handle, etc.) and still can't get the shell to separate from the inside. In doing this I also ended up breaking off the loop on the handle that locks it to the case.

Do any of you have an idea what could have happened here? If somehow the cylinder is upside down (it shouldn't be...I was very careful) is there a trick to getting it out? I've also heard of folks drilling them out...I'd rather not do that, but I'm getting desperate. Please help! Thanks!

tumblers

Hey -

Silly question perhaps - but doesn't hurt to ask.

I have a used 28L topcase I bought, came with the key. I want to rekey it to match my ignition key.

Local BMW dealership said it can't be rekeyed (coded to VIN) - NOT!

BUT - when I look at the key that came with it versus my bike key - will I have the correct number of "1,2, or 3" tumblers to make the rekeying work? Looking at the kits that you can buy, they come with more tumblers than needed - is there an easy way to tell?

Thanks!

Kevin

cciekevin said:

Hey -

Silly question perhaps - but doesn't hurt to ask.

I have a used 28L topcase I bought, came with the key. I want to rekey it to match my ignition key.

Local BMW dealership said it can't be rekeyed (coded to VIN) - NOT!

BUT - when I look at the key that came with it versus my bike key - will I have the correct number of "1,2, or 3" tumblers to make the rekeying work? Looking at the kits that you can buy, they come with more tumblers than needed - is there an easy way to tell?

Thanks!

Kevin

Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum!
I'm not sure about the re-keying. If you don't get a response in this older thread, I can move this into a thread on it's own.
You can use the search engine to the "Tag Cloud" for a bit more info. It would be good to know the year and model of your bike to help ID the kind of key you may have.
Gary

All good now

Omega Man said:

Welcome to the forum!
I'm not sure about the re-keying. If you don't get a response in this older thread, I can move this into a thread on it's own.
You can use the search engine to the "Tag Cloud" for a bit more info. It would be good to know the year and model of your bike to help ID the kind of key you may have.
Gary

Click to expand...

So after MUCH elbow grease, I now have a my 28L top box keyed to my new 2015 RT key! Some helpful info to share:

1- Watch this video - this guy makes it look SO EASY - pissed me off a little, but make me realize it was possible! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og7hnD1tsNI&lc=z22tzvpqyqafz1xmsacdp434313fjjvowse02xxfsjpw03c010c)

2- You do not need to disassemble the top case - and doing so doesn't really make things easier

3- When re-keying, if you don't have the correct number of proper "tumblers", you CAN leave them blank and the key will turn.


Good luck!

This is not working for me, I cannot get the lock out of the 28L top case using a paper clip, or a spring steel tool.

Dealer told me on the phone the box has to be disassembled. The little plastic access port on the right side near the lock is not at any angle that would allow access to the lock tumbler.

Also, can a top box without the key be mounted on the bike ??

I don't mind buying a new lock, can I just drill out the old one or should I take it to a locksmith to drill out?

wichitagreg said:

This is not working for me, I cannot get the lock out of the 28L top case using a paper clip, or a spring steel tool.

Dealer told me on the phone the box has to be disassembled. The little plastic access port on the right side near the lock is not at any angle that would allow access to the lock tumbler.

Also, can a top box without the key be mounted on the bike ??

I don't mind buying a new lock, can I just drill out the old one or should I take it to a locksmith to drill out?

Click to expand...

I just drilled mine out about 2 hours ago...Similar situation. No key came with the box (used). Tried the paperclip/hacksaw blade tool route. No luck.
If you bugger the plastic sleeve the lock cylinder sits in, you're beat.
Start with a 1/16" bit and drill to each side of the key slot. Don't be in a hurry. Gradually increase the bit size one step at a time up about 3 sizes to maybe 7/64"... then do the same thing in the key slot. Be ever so careful to not let the drill bind and spin the cylinder in the housing. This will destroy everything. Also do not use a huge bit anytime during the procedure. I did not use anything larger than 5/32". Good luck.