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Best HID Lighting 2013 R1200 RT

05biggray

Member
I, was forced into riding 2 hours in darkness and rain on the Fl TPK returning from MS. I know I am OLD and don't see as well as in my younger day's and had been riding for 800 miles with 200 to go how ever the lights still were dismal. I finally laid in behind another vehicle doing 80 just for protection from recaps and critters. All that aside any advice on HID light's they seem to be the only answer for projection beams of any distance. I had a run in with a RECAP tread once and really don't want to repeat it. Thanks for all the help.
Dave
 
I, was forced into riding 2 hours in darkness and rain on the Fl TPK returning from MS. I know I am OLD and don't see as well as in my younger day's and had been riding for 800 miles with 200 to go how ever the lights still were dismal. I finally laid in behind another vehicle doing 80 just for protection from recaps and critters. All that aside any advice on HID light's they seem to be the only answer for projection beams of any distance. I had a run in with a RECAP tread once and really don't want to repeat it. Thanks for all the help.
Dave

i hear ya on the old tired eyes.....:(

i had a right side headlight bulb go out on my 2013 R1200RT and changed all to Philips H7 X-treme Power....brighter and seem to throw a bit farther....maybe my imagination though....

i did have HIDs on my V-Strom and KLR though....6000K, bright white light and good spread....if you do not have the COM system, i would think there would be plenty of room for the ballasts and such....i do not plan on putting HIDs on my RT....if a ballast or bulb fails on the road, replacement would be tough...i do carry a spare X-treme though....

wyman
 
DDM Tuning - http://www.ddmtuning.com/

I prefer the 4500-5000 color range and the 35 watt low beam will make you very happy. Easy install.

I'm pleased with the DDM HIDs, though if I'd seen them before ordering, I might have tried the 4300K instead of the 4500K version. The 4500K is very white and takes some getting used to.

Changing back to a standard H-7 on the road should not be difficult, just one more connector to unplug.
 
I'm pleased with the DDM HIDs, though if I'd seen them before ordering, I might have tried the 4300K instead of the 4500K version. The 4500K is very white and takes some getting used to.

Changing back to a standard H-7 on the road should not be difficult, just one more connector to unplug.

Larry,

what wattage did you go with....???

wyman
 
Larry,

what wattage did you go with....???

wyman

35W. It's more than enough light and I had concerns about excess light "spillage" causing glare for oncoming traffic. Also heard tales of shortened ballast life with the 55W bulbs; don't know if that's true or not. My impetus for the change to HID was potentially longer bulb life and I did not want to trade one problem for another.
 
35W. It's more than enough light and I had concerns about excess light "spillage" causing glare for oncoming traffic. Also heard tales of shortened ballast life with the 55W bulbs; don't know if that's true or not. My impetus for the change to HID was potentially longer bulb life and I did not want to trade one problem for another.

good point.....

what about 35 watt low beams and 55 watt high beam.....thinking 4300K on the low and 4500 on the high....

these HIDs look really good....

one more ???....any issues with the Canbus and initial startup surge...?

wyman
 
The HID bulbs have a brief (1-2 seconds) warm-up period before reaching full brightness. General consensus seems to be that this makes HID impractical for high beam flashing. After upgrading the low beams, I did feel I wanted to do something to upgrade the high beam, so I put in a 65W Osram H-7. This made some improvement in beam reach, but nothing earthshaking. The difference may have been masked by the brightness of the HID low beam. Frankly, I have little need of the high beam, as I rarely ride at night and when I do, the road is seldom empty enough to use the high beam. Guess I need to plan a trip to some wide open spaces...

Oh, no "CANBUS" issues with the HID lights. They do make the running lights look yellow, and my farkle bone was stimulated, so I put in a couple LED replacements. About one in ten startups, the running light circuit turns off and I get the "front light out" symbol. This clears up with a restart. May need to add some resistance or just live with it.
 
The HID bulbs have a brief (1-2 seconds) warm-up period before reaching full brightness. General consensus seems to be that this makes HID impractical for high beam flashing. After upgrading the low beams, I did feel I wanted to do something to upgrade the high beam, so I put in a 65W Osram H-7. This made some improvement in beam reach, but nothing earthshaking. The difference may have been masked by the brightness of the HID low beam. Frankly, I have little need of the high beam, as I rarely ride at night and when I do, the road is seldom empty enough to use the high beam. Guess I need to plan a trip to some wide open spaces...

Thanks Larry for putting up with my questions...:))

i too rarely use the high beam and almost never flash it....hence the reason for a higher wattage version...

one last question....did you require the "error code eliminator"...????

wyman
 
I did not order error code eliminator and have not needed it. The HID lights worked fine, and I had no errors until I put in the LED running lights.
 
I will also vote for DDM Tuning 35 Watts HID Kit.

I have purchased 3 kits from DDM Tuning, all 35 Watts H7 4300K.

One kit was used for almost 3 years in a 2011 Subaru Outback and no problems.

Another kit was installed on my 2011 RT in 2011 (third season) and no problem to report, they are so bright that I do not need the high beam.

The 3rd kit is for spare parts.
 
i hear ya on the old tired eyes.....:(

i had a right side headlight bulb go out on my 2013 R1200RT and changed all to Philips H7 X-treme Power....brighter and seem to throw a bit farther....maybe my imagination though....

i did have HIDs on my V-Strom and KLR though....6000K, bright white light and good spread....if you do not have the COM system, i would think there would be plenty of room for the ballasts and such....i do not plan on putting HIDs on my RT....if a ballast or bulb fails on the road, replacement would be tough...i do carry a spare X-treme though....

wyman[/QUOT

+1 on the Phillips x-treme bulbs. significantly whiter than oem and so far durability has been good. Put mine in about a year ago after repeated ballast failures on the dual DDM kit I had installed. I have high and low beam HIDs from DDM on my F800 and they have worked flawlessly. I ordered the same for my RT however the newer versions were not the same metal cased ballasts as I got several years ago for the F800. I had no less than 4 ballast failures with the kits i installed on my RT before i finally gave up. Props to DDM as they relplaced each failed ballast with a new one that failed within a few weeks. Some research i did found some references on automotive forums about problems when installing HID kits on cars with daylight running lights. Something about low voltage being sent to the ballasts at engine start killing the ballast. I extrapolated that this might be part of the problem with the newer ballasts and installing them on M/C's with the always on headlights. Sounds possible based on my experience and repeated failures. I would suggest going the the Phillips bulbs and maybe looking for an auxiliary light set up. There are some great LED sets out there i've heard.

BTW, i opted for the 55w kits to match OEm wattage and avoid error messages. Works on my F800 and until the ballasts went out on the RT, never an error code. Another factor, if you care, the aftermarket installation kits are technically illegal for street use.
 
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