"I bought a ticket to the circus, I don't know why I was so surprised to see elephants" Norris Church Mailer
2009 F800GS 1994 TW200
6K bulbs may or may not really be that from Chinese sources- reality in data and claims isn't generally their specialty. And generally bulbs atthat temp have some sort of coating that reduces output by a little- the bluer the temp the more restrictive the coating.
And while those higher temp (bluer) bulbs might be fine in dry climates, bluer is a pita in the wet and for reflections off signs- there are plenty of both in most of the eastern part of the country. 4300K is already marginal in the wet and the glare factor and failure to illuminate wet surfaces well goes up as color temp goes up. Higher temps do work well on dry asphalt, however.
So test in your local area in the worst conditions you ride before evaluating any light source.
The Chinese type I use is from DDM Tuning but I substitute better quality 4300K bulbs. Generally 10 days to delivery.
When a bike has only a single headlight bulb, I see little practical alternative if you intend to ride at night. 1400-1500 lumens doesn't get it at modern road speeds.
3000 is marginal and you get barely more than that with an HID (3200 lumens each on a 35W ballast). Even a single HID needs supplementation for better area coverage. We're way past overdue for better vehicle lighting stds IMO.
Bikes like the RT with its dual low beam lamps offer lighting that at least equals what a cheap cage has for low beams.
Except for my first Yamaha in the early 60s, every bike I have ever owned has had supplemental lighting intended to operate with the low beam- most were offroad lights or generally "illegal" for that use. Considering the number of deer I've seen at night and not hit, I've got no regrets. But I do keep my lights aimed as low as practical to avoid as much annoyance to oncoming traffic as possible. I always test my aim by walking a good distance in front of my bike and judging the glare from the other guys perspective.