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Spark plug change on 2010 r1200rt
- Thread starter chuckr
- Start date
This will probably do better in the Hexhead/Camhead part of the forum.
I'll give it a move for you.
Good luck.
Gary
Make sure you get the correct (thin-walled)socket !!!
pappy35
New member
Thin Walled Spark Plug Socket at Autozone for $7+tax.
I'm not sure there's a 'procedure' per se. It would be helpful to have one of these but basically you just replace them like you would in a car.
According to Haynes manual the torque (you do have a torque wrench - if not get one of those too or know how to repair the thread in the head) is 12N-m and the gap should be 0.7mm to 0.9mm. There are, in case you didn't know or notice 2 plugs per cylinder.
I'm not sure there's a 'procedure' per se. It would be helpful to have one of these but basically you just replace them like you would in a car.
According to Haynes manual the torque (you do have a torque wrench - if not get one of those too or know how to repair the thread in the head) is 12N-m and the gap should be 0.7mm to 0.9mm. There are, in case you didn't know or notice 2 plugs per cylinder.
azgman
Addicted to curves
Hope the OP , chuckr, figured it out in 2014
Always some good info anyways
Duh! I hate it when this happens.
BTW he posted in August 2015 he got a K1600...wonder if his '10 RT is just sitting there because the plugs never got changed???
Duh! I hate it when this happens.
Funny how old threads resurface...and have responded to years old ones a few times as well.
Maybe he traded it in instead of changing the plugs
Even though two are way easier than those six!
AjaxTheDog
New member
No anti seize or lube
Just be sure NOT to lube the plug threads. They go in clean and dry.
Just be sure NOT to lube the plug threads. They go in clean and dry.
pappy35
New member
Really? I was going to use copper anti-seize when I do mine next month. Why?
pglaves
#13338
This is a hot topic like oil and tires. Disclaimer: I use anti seize on spark plugs. Alternate view: Tom Cutter whom I respect hates anti seize on plugs. Fact: BMW does not specify anti seize on plugs.
The plus. If you ever had a steel plug gall in the aluminum threads on a head you might like anti seize. The minus. Use of anti seize or any other lubricant messes with the specified torque setting - reducing it by maybe 25%. That is with the lubricant 25% less measured torque is tight enough and the specified torque might strip threads.
Tom hates it because once there it is hard to detect and then using a torque wrench and the BMW spec can result in stripped threads. I like it because I know it is there and know what to do to avoid stripping threads.
YMMV a lot.
Good explanation
Additionally, when a vehicle recommends high mileage plug changes (50K and up), it’s a big help with the actual plug change.
I like to blow out the spark plug area with compressed air befor starting the R&R.
OM
pglaves
#13338
Sure, but they won't come install an insert after you gall and strip the threads in the head, now will they. And the spark plug was actually invented in 1839 by one Edmond Berger long before there was a Bosch.
